jimjam

If you get left with sticky residue after it come off then get a small pot of cellulose thinneer from halfords and dampen a tissue and wipe off. As for maintainence, Just a basic riders check: Tyres Lights Chain Brakes, More or less everything else should be covered by your service.

I have a Caberg helmet with the second dark visor. Very good but it has little sound proofing (Or I have big ears)

Just a quick tought. Loosen the yoke pinch bolts and rotate the fork legs 180 degrees, if they are bending when stopping then it may help to se if the problem goes away. It's a dodge repair really but quick as you like and saves a strip down. The strip is actually a fairly easy job. the hassle comes when you end up with a pot of waste oil and no where to put it. there's a bolt at the very bottom of the forks, this holds it all in place togeter with the screw/circlip at the very top.

Did they go to teh fly by wire control instead of having a cable? Is it the potentiometer?

Too much petrol is usually a symptom of an incorrct float height or sticky/faulty needle. I think your suffering enough Ged, you must be pulling your hair out!

Your fork leg will need to have the correct spacing, I think it needs to be 83mm to use the twin pot. I don't know your bikes' particulars but I have a YPVS that use the 2 potters.

Sticky forks sound a bit unusual, You could have a bent fork leg, saggy springs terrible oil, you may have a rebound damper spring gone. Alas, it's a csae of strip down to check.

You need to really thoroughly check the rubber conectors from the carb to the engine, you may have a very faint air leak.

Could you have put the slide in backwards?

Few of things, Is the choke on? Is the 'idle jet' clean, are you positive the carb was clean. Is the carb set up for idle, right number of turns on the airscrew etc...

Dry spark plugs, nice indicator there. LEt us know how you get on the the other set of carbs.

I'm not surprised that you've been having a hard time. It must be pretty hush hush so far. If Yamaha haven't been on the course yet there can't be many people who do know. At the risk of upsettting existing members; www.visordown.com they have a wealth of knowledge. www.motorcyclenews.com/ might have discussed this somewhere.

Hmmm... Just having a think. Why should it run better when warm as the fuel in on the cold side of the engine. The only thing that comes to mind are the bores, rings and valves which might expand and seal better, have you thought of a compression test?

Nice, well done. It's always a worry having a bike where people can see it. Twoc'ing is all good and well for the louts but they don't appreciate the long term saving or bank loan that usually goes with owning. try to hold of for a while and then you'll sleep better too.

Looks like a meadspeed front fairing, YPVS frame and engine, 31K and I have not seen the seat unit before.

Thank you for the photograph agent 12. The pig is now in the poke. Just Think Merv, 60 years ago and you'd have been arrested for suggesting that there's a satellite station. What was the picture?

Carbs can easily provide an extra 1-2 horses when set up properly. It's one of the easiest ways to get power from a bike without changing anything. I have a 2-stroke and it is really noticable when the carbs need adjusting.

I have seen this before on a zx10. the carbs seem to get really hard to get right after a jet kit. If possible switch back to standard or actually pay someone to have a look for you. It's actually not that expensive to get qualified mechanic to spend a bit of time fettling.

Very easy to bypass. But the switch will cut the engine out if the bike is on the main stand and in gear. I think the cut out switch is only 2 wires, just get a lentgh and join them together. It can be used as a good anti theft deterrent if you put a little switch in it. When you leave the bike you just flick it off.

I don't mind taking a risk every now and then but botching your brakes is like a whole different level. I would suggest that actually drilling holes to allow the use of tie wraps. And then you want to put as many as you can on. if you're replacing it then it won't matter. If however you're thinking of a repair so it can be sold on then you're a naughty boy.

I know some yamaha frames and engines are unstamped, But I've not heard of this on a whole bike. Hmmm..strange as it seems but I think the MOT have to be able to read the numbes on a bike for it to pass.

It won't be made from anything fancy, steel or mild steel. Like butter really

Never heard of anywere allowing that. It'll be an interesting topic.

For a cain I have used a dirt cheap nasty thing that rusted and looked awful. I know it's common sense but for chains go as high as you dare. EBC standard pads are more than fine and won;t wear your discs out as soon but sintered are very good. just remember to change both at the front at the same time.

The serve is just a collection of plastic cogs, it could be that they are wearing a it thin. try pulling on the cable fitting and see if it is 'sloppy' the other thing it could be is llose cables themselves, in which case it's time for about £20 on replacement parts. (Is there any kind of heat sheild that could have worked loose?