yoda

Go to court and then you will find out what evidence the police have. If they dont have much the prosecution will back down. You could also start an action against the council. That will strengthern your case.

I don't know whether this is a wet clutch that's dried out or a dry clutch that the mechanism has jammed. Either way do not disassemble it just try to free it , gently. Failure to do this will result in a visit to the dealers.

OK, I will have a look in the morning. I think 70 KW comes to mind.

Well, I must admit that I have never done that. If anyone disconnects their thottle return spring then the are going to be Darwind.

As far as I'm concerned, there has been no change to that type of bike so go on the Yamaha web site and quote the figure from there. Your customs know this and are trying to piss you off.

Thanks sunrae, but I get that every day. Gas is soo expensive here that they employ girls to 'fill you up'.

I think your ignition timing is way out.

I presume that both are adjustable for fuel mapping, so the decision must be which is more adjustable and which is cheapest.

I'll see if I can find a real one (not factory) for you. Give me a few days.

Factory quoted power is from the crankshaft and therefore pure 'engine' power. Then you start multiplying the losses straight away. Motorcycle transmissions, even the DN01 are long and lossy.

If you put a standard bike on a dyno you will find that it produces about 15% less power than quoted. This is due to transmission losses and manufacturing tolerances. We would all have cheaper insurance if the makers told the truth.

How do you know that you need a rebore? I know how to tell and what to do. You might only need a new set of piston rings. Consult someone who knows.

It's different for every type of engine. You need to speak to a tuner of the type of engine you have. It is not just a question of polishing, it could be porting shape, valve stem skimming, exhaust shape and baffling and carb size. If you just go in and polish you might even lose power due to poor mixing of the fuel in air.

I think you might find that it is the brake disc making the sound. Get an airline and blow the dirt and dust off to see if this helps.

The crankcase breathers go to the inlet box and that is where the oil is comming from. There should not be much so clean it out and put new filters in. Check again in 1000 miles. If there is alot, then the crankcase is being pressurised and then requires attention.

All of that could have been avoided by attending a car/bike servicing, evening class.

I thought it had a seperate oil tank so no fuel mixing.

Your Thindercat is suffering from a worn gearbox. I suspect that the selector forks need changing.

Would it be logical if the two hoses were to be fitted to the radiator?

Doubt if its the gearbox bearings as 1st, 3rd and fifth are on the same shaft so you also hear it in those gears. I suspect that the selector fork is comming into contact with something when changing to fifth and that is what the noise is. Just ensure that oil levels in all places are correct and if it doesn't stop, its a gearbox stripdown.

It's a sod when you miss a gear.

Apart from checking that the throttle will go to max on the carb and the timing is correct, have you checked the exhaust for blockage? Is it coaked up?

This is really DoDo land stuff. When you change an engine and put in a completely different one, it might be a good idea to change the engine ecu as well.

I see June is busting out allover!!!

Yes but one must be a dummy. This happens all of the time in motorcycle racing.