fawzi963

@wildfoamy thanks for mentioning that, especially when on the front of oil bottle, it shows a piston and valves. I will try going to the gas station tomorrow and see if I can replace it with one for motorbike use. I wouldn't like the clutch slipping and stalling at unwanted times. I opened the bottle so I'm not sure if they would allow me to replace it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@blackhat thanks for the explanation. So what I mentioned about blow by is irrelevant when speaking about gearbox leak for example? I'm asking because I read a question about a leaky gearbox and one of the answers mentioned a relationship to blow by. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahah loved your description, just wanted to say, that one learns from his older brother Thanks for your help!

And oh btw, I would like to know what you think about me not knowing what I should for being in this hobby, and is it cause I'm lacking something or cause I don't have the experience since its my first bike? I would like to know your opinion if possible

Thanks for the advice! Didn't know the either but after thinking about it, it seems obvious. Thanks airhead.

Looking at the diagrams in my service manual, it makes much more sense. I was looking at the correct place where the oil should be poured, its just that I mixed up the names for some reason! Thanks for your help Airhead, much appreciated. It some times upsets me that I don't know these things when in a year or 2 I will be studying engineering

@airhead, after you drain the oil from the forks, don't you add the oil from the top by removing the pinch bolts? And for the gearbox fluid, will the 10w-40 work just fine?

Dear slice, Thanks for your reply. I checked my manual again and here are the screen shots: Bare with me buddy since this is my first bike. So even though the oil that I got is 10w, the 40 will bring me a tough ride correct? So for now I shall just use the 10w/40 for the gearbox only? If yes, what type should I get for the front fork's legs? Last question: if you double check you would realize that there is a 0.5 m-kg pinch bolt difference, which should I go for if I decide to change the in the fork, the 2.5 or 3.0? Your help is very appreciated so thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recently checked the oil level and condition in my gearbox on my '80 DT175, luckily the level perfectly fine which seems like there is no leak neither any blow by, right? But the colour of that oil looked disgusting, it looked hot chocolate brown and quite runny, so I bought some 10w/40 oil since its the closest to what the manuals suggests which is 10w30. Since I couldn't find the oil to spec, is it still ok to use this same oil for the fork also? Is it difficult changing the oil in the fork? The service manual suggests the same oil for both the gearbox and fork. Thanks in advance

I'll try it out when I'm free, thanks Cynic! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice Slice, I need to decrease the revs so I shall turn the screw counterclockwise, correct?

When my DT175 idles when warm it does so at about 2300 - 2500 r/min. I thought that was quite high so I checked the service manual and it mentioned adjusting the throttle stop screw to achieve a better engine operation. My questions are: A) Does my bike rev higher than usual or shall I go with what the manual says? B ) How does the throttle stop screw work? C) Doesn't it cause the engine to run lean by any chance? D) Does it only affect the smoothness of the idling or the also the rev range? Manual: Thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Until now, I find it really handy. Easy to navigate and saves time rather than having to upload photos to photobucket then transfer then onto the forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice guys, didn't know much a helmets. Much appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys, I guess I'll just keep it as it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was thinking about adding a carby air filter, is it worth it? Better in terms of looks and breathing for the engine. If yes, whats the optimum jetting and what size is the stock factory carb? Thanks in advance

I guess so since its got some scratches on the rear of the helmet.

Hello guys, recently a friend gifted me a helmet that he used to ride a few years ago, other than the fact that I don't how good the brand is (JHL) and some dirt inside, it's fairly fine. But I was thinking about repainting it the same colour it already is. Is it possible with just some sand paper and a can of primer and spray paint? Or is it not as simple? Thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mozzy your XT reminds me of my DT big time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would go for black also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This photo was taken 2 weeks after I got it: These 3 after after the exhaust leak was fixed and painted. Exposed part of the frame repainted black and top part of engine also repainted black. Repainted foot pegs, and most rust surface removed from handlebars: What do you think of it now that it looks better guys? Btw, I do want to fix the seat, but not sure It will stay with since I'm in high school (year 12 A/S level) and not sure if I will stay in Greece (current location) or study abroad. Another reason is that I can't legally ride it since I'm 17 and I should be at least 18 to get the license. Those 2 reasons are what makes me sell it and buy something that will help at university and if I leave Greece such as laptop. As a family and community, I thought about asking for your opinion. Thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will look at it, thanks for your help

The problem is that when it starts when choke pulled, I can't even get close to the throttle or else it will die. Even if a little touch.

Btw I couldn't find where the post that contains the ybr not starting post is. Can you please help me with this?

Blackhat250, your reply with a red font pretty worried me, am I making a mistake when starting it?