feliks

Oh I turned it in all directions, laid it at all angles and across everywhere it'd fit... just didn't take pictures of all the angles. Was hard to hole the camera, the square, and the feeler gauge at the same time lol Since I couldn't find the insert I needed anywhere, I just took the bottom of the engine into Smuck's Engine in Jarvis, Ontario today - charged me an hour to do the thread on the bottom and hone my cylinders. He attempted to fix the stripped exhaust bolt hole as well but didn't feel confident that there would be enough material for the helicoil to grab onto so he didn't put one in there, and suggested that I get it welded up and re-tapped. I told him I may just be getting a head off another engine anyway so he said yeah that's probably a good option! Wooo! One step closer! Now I just need to get my parts on order... OH, he measured my cylinders as well and got 58.6 mm (2.307 in)

Picked up a feeler gauge and a contractors square today and started testing for warpage. There are a couple of small variances...is it significant enough to worry about? Everywhere except the back side where the engine wasn't torqued correctly due to the warped header bolt hole was in spec, I couldn't slide the 0.002 gauge under, but when I got to the back I could. So I changed to 0.003 and couldn't slide that under...but I could slide it under in another spot, so I changed to 0.004 and I couldn't get that under ANYWHERE I tried...so is this good...or? Pictures: Checking for head warpage by feliks.ca, on Flickr Checking for head warpage by feliks.ca, on Flickr Checking for head warpage by feliks.ca, on Flickr Checking for head warpage by feliks.ca, on Flickr Checking for head warpage by feliks.ca, on Flickr Checking for head warpage by feliks.ca, on Flickr and I checked all angles, left to right, diagonal, top to bottom, anywhere I could fit the straight edge in, this was the only spot I could slide the feelers under.

That's a beautiful bike, and you're making me REALLY jealous because there's a foot of snow here right now....and more falling!! :(

Fastenal didn't have the keyserts/ key locking thread inserts....and Canadian Tire was sold out of the digital calipers that were on sale! Got a rain cheque for them, and picked up a square and some feeler gauges to see if I have any warpage on my parts before I start buying gaskets for the engine and waste money! So far the cylinder housing is perfect, can't even slide the .002 feeler gauge under anywhere without it binding, which means there are no gaps and no warpage! On to the next piece...the bottom end! Hoping it's alright because the rest of the shit in there is awesome...gears...clutch...etc.

Yeah I won't be able to get right down in the middle of the cylinder with the calipers but if I can get a good enough reading for it to work then all is good!

Crappy Tire has some digital calipres on sale for $10 right now...going to grab them today.

Finally got the rear cowl in yesterday... flows perfect with the bike. Need to do a bit of modification to it and the rear chassis when I get the tail light in. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

lol Ok going to fastenal tomorrow to pick up the thread insert - going with Keyserts - they sell them individually and you don't need to use the tool to install them - they use standard tap sizes as well. I like the fact it has locking tabs, should hold better. Not sure if that's the correct size but I imagine you're right! I'll check the manual and bring the stud with me too to make sure it's going to fit. Princess Auto has the honing tool for like $25 so I'll probably just pick that up then, but then I have to get something to measure the cylinders too.... I imagine they're stock size though. Wonder if I can just bring in the cylinders to the Yama dealership and get them to measure them there so I get the right rings. Thanks again everyone for all the tips and advice, sure does help!!

The light gray stuff is jb weld or something that the previous owner tried to fix the hole with....going to see if I can find a local source for timeserts/keenserts, basically any key locking thread insert will work, just have to get the right size! I have no thread measuring device. Thanks for the luck, I'll need it!

Happy New Year!! Hope everyone had a safe and great night!

No problem! I had a highlighter when I went through mine and I think I dried it up highlighting very useful tips... going to read through it a few more times I think so everything sticks and then apply the knowledge come riding season, when my bike is back together!

Would Keenserts be better (key locking) as opposed to Helicoils?

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! You know I've been thinking about it as I've been doing all this work...and when I'm done it's going to be so satisfying having an engine I put back together, that I'm going to keep the bike for a few years. After all this work is done I'm going to have a pretty much brand new top end, that should last until the wheels fall off the bike...lol Who knows how abused these other engines are, and they both have around 50k, mine has 28k. That being said, I wouldn't mind picking up another motor and some parts, so I'm going to go check it out anyway. If the heads look better on the other motors I'll just swap them over and save doing a valve job and worrying about the broken exhaust bolt on the front. Could always use more parts for cheap though! I'm going to get a quote on doing the inserts at the engine shop since it's only about 20 minutes from me, just to see what they say....if they can do the inserts and honing for a hundred bucks or less I'd be cool with that. Might be handy having a helicoil or keensert kit handy though for other jobs! What do you think about the hole right through to the crankcase cavity, what if metal shavings get down there? I guess I can hold a shop vac with a small attachment on it while I'm drilling....any other ideas? I'll add the c-clips to the list, those are just the ones I took out to slide the piston rods out right? Going to do to the oil pan gasket as well, should I leave that all together until the end so we can flush out the bottom end? I have no idea how to do that...I just remember you mentioned it, I'm assuming we fill it up with some cheap oil and let it drain? I don't even think it's going to be too hard to re-assemble the motor, with all the help I've got from you and the other guys here...it's made the job so much easier and I'm a lot more confident than when I started. The only thing I'm not sure about is the timing chain and how to get that lined up... I made some marks on the sprockets and chain with a felt-tip pen but I'm not sure if they held up. Is there another way to do that?

B

I think the engine repair / machine shop I found should be able to fix it...I sure hope so! Will let you guys know how it goes.

Got some good pics of the stripped threads on the crankcase here...you can see how it's just open at the bottom. Stripped crankcase header bolt threads by feliks.ca, on Flickr Stripped crankcase header bolt threads by feliks.ca, on Flickr Stripped crankcase header bolt threads by feliks.ca, on Flickr Stripped crankcase header bolt threads by feliks.ca, on Flickr

Did you just quote yourself? lol

Haha yeah I know how it works...I'm new to motorcycling, not to marriage. hahaha I emailed the guy and if I'm willing to drive up there to pick the engine up, he said he'll throw in whatever other parts I want/need from him parting the bike out! So...uhhh...yeah, can't go wrong there! It's about a 2 hour drive though, so I need to plan the trip... Good old Scarborough.

Can't go wrong until I bring another engine home to part out and the wife divorces me..... LOL

Nice, yeah they look like really nice quality, zipper even has a velcro attachment so it stays inside the flap that protects your ankle, so it can't accidently fall down!

Welcome to the forums!

Welcome from over in Canada!

Welcome to YOC!

Hmmmm.... just came across a BUNCH of parts for a 1986 FZ600 on Kijiji - the guy is selling two engines for $100 a piece... I'm wondering if I should keep mine, or pick one of the full engines up, grab the head off it (where my stripped exhaust bolt hole is) - then take the chance of the valve seals maybe being good or not.... OR, should I just stick with mine and clean it up? Decisions decisions....

Here's my ongoing parts list and cost: $18.84 - Crankcase Cover Gasket (on the lower left side of the engine) $57.55 - Valve Cover Gasket $61.36 - Head Gasket $11.51 - Base Crankcase Gasket $6.79 x 4 - o-Rings $52.41 - Piston Rings - need to measure cylinder bore $6.91 x 8 - Valve Seals Not to mention what the machine shop is going to charge me...