philfz600

update: took the clutch cover and clutch back apart today to check that gear, (oil pump gear) and managed to lock it down. found that the main bolt that holds the clutch housing down came a bit loose, and tightened that up real snug. Now upon start up noise is a bit less but still there. put bike in first gear and release clutch until bike just starts to slightly move and at this point the noise goes away. So no noise under load. pull in clutch, noise comes back. release clutch in first gear noise is gone. i feel like this^ should help with solving this issue alot.

well i tried to adjust the cam chain but the p.o. broke the bolt that loosens the spring for adjustment. ordered new and installed, (lined up the C on the left side which is what the book tells me, loosened the nut a lil and retightened. still rattles. not cam chain? went back to drawing boards. reviewed youtube videos of others who all still seemed to be A. carb tuning B. cam chain tensioner, or C. loose gears in the clutch housing. as far as what drewpy states, i didnt even look at the gears to check for markings. i guess ill take it all back apart and see. if i recall correctly the top gear (starter gear?) has a ton of "play" and is only held on my a clip. i may have to take a closer look at the gears and see if perhaps i need to adjust the gears in some form. and to Slice's comment, i prey it is not any deeper in engine, i do however think i hear the snap u speak of. perhaps thats when the shaft stops spinning and the gear continues to try and rotate (taking up the slack i speak of) and slaps against the shaft?? the timing i hear it sounds as if its at the very end of the bike running, right as it dies.

sorry i guess i could have added more details. the sound in the first video is very close to the same sound i get with all assembled. i have found in the clutch housing that one of the gears has a good 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play so i am working on a simple fabrication to reduce that slop. after some research alot of people claim that to be the problem. the springs are all tight and look good.

this project is close to an end and all i ahve left is this rattle/clunking noise in the cluth housing. i took the housing off to seek out the source and below is what i found. the first one is with the clutch plates off but the housing on. the second is with everything off and you should be able to notice the sound goes away. is this a normal sound and im "searching" for problems? or does this sound louder then it should be. the noise is just as loud with the cover on btw.

i dont know what bike you have, but i would start by making sure the butterfly is closing when you release throttle. check all positions of throttle and make sure its not being hung up anywhere

bought some K&N clamp on air filters to replace the stock air box that i had on the bike when i bought it. Upped my pilot jet from 30(stock) to 32.5 and main jet from 107.5(stock) to 112.5. I also "shimmed" the needle with some small washers (+2 on each needle). Upon these jet options i noticed the bike ran fine up until 75-85 mph on highway in which at these speeds it would "hickup" or jerk a bit as if it is still starving for fuel??. (at anything over 3/4 or so throttle the bike would stop "jerking" and run perfectly fine (main jet at WOT) if i run the bike at the 75-85 range it will eventually start to lose power and with out moving throttle position the bike would begin to lose speed as if it were fouling plugs? or perhaps overheating? i have tried shimming needle from 0 to 1 to 2 to 3 and even 4 washers on each needle and all positions minus 2 washers would run drastically worse. (50 mph befor acting up) i also seem to be having some issues with the pilot screw settings. i know you want to look for the highest rpm range when idling below 1k but some of the carbs seem to show no increase or decrease in performance. all will shut engine down when seated but one of the carbs (#2 i believe) has its highest rpms showing at only 1/8 turn out. is it normal to drop a pilot jet size on only 1 carb??? this being said i based the carbs screw settings off the color of the plugs at idle. so bike runs best with 32.5 pilot, 112.5 main jet, 2 washer needle raise, and carbs pilot screws set at carb1=3 turns out (tan plug at idle) carb2=2.5 (tan) carb3=1.5 or maybe it was .5? (tan) carb4=1.75 (tan) float high is the manual recomended 22mm (if i recall correctly) other important info: carbs have been bench synced and then synced with the manometer or w/e the proper name is. no known intake boot leaks, idle is regular and does not drop or raise up, also throttle response is good and returns to an idle as it should w/o dropping below or being hung up at any rpms. petcock also performs as it should (iv had this gas tank off a million times:*( (i mention this because iv heard rumors of peoples problems being the petcock?) i guess it could be possible the vacume isnt strong enough to keep a strong flow of fuel threw the lines, and the decrease in speed after long rides could be the lack of fuel in bowls? (petcock struggling to keep up?) (this only explains the dieing after long rides tho.. and i find unlikely) suggestions on what im forgetting or what my problem could be? based on the diagrams, at this throttle range its running on both needle,needle jet, main jet, and pilot jet/screw so i need some guidance on what to try next. may invest in yet another size up on main jet, but i dont recall anyone needing to go up so much on main jet for air filter upgrade alone.

Now i gotta re sync carbs fml lol Thanks for the help once again. Till next time!

Just did exacty that. Went into bike shop and thats what they suggested. Looks pretty good. Planning to throw some heat shrink or aomething over where the wire andcap meet. But seema to fit perfecty now. Had to unwind a good 2 or 3 inches tho.

Thanks for help all, no i do not. I have the cable the p.o had on but its same size and he made work with zip ties lol. As far as pic goes i beliee it shows you in my first pic the situation. I cant physically install it to the carbs and slide it in holder. If i bend holder down a lil i can but it keeps the butterfly 100% opened. Aka full throttle. Im bout to return this one and head to a yam dealer n order from them. At least it will be easier toreturn P.s cable is stamped with the mfg # if u look close in pic i think u can see.

starting to look this way myself... im checking sites like ebay to compare to and all look the same. but these sites all say the cable will fit. perhaps i need to find a way to make a custom cable? im going to do some cross checking against other sites like cheep cycle parts and see if any of the part numbers are dif. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=6010&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1986&fveh=160 #7, same mfg # as whats on my invoice.

thanks! i had a feeling i just needed to upload to internet.

so last time i posted here you all gave GREAT help!! so i have returned one more time. my 86 fz600 was purchased at the start of winter and the p.o. had the throttle cable zip tied to allow it to fit. so upon purchasing it i am no at the point of tackling this little problem. went online and purchased http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-33M-26311-09-00.html but the throttle cable will not fit around the carbs loop and into the slot. i have the slack screw on the cable all the way in to allow full slack, and am begining to believe the p.o. may have somehow moved the location of where the cable goes into the butterfly valve (opener) lower so the cable now appears to short? is this possible? suggestions on fixing this little issue. http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/bamfcow/media/carbs_zps9c5d7bce.png.html#/user/bamfcow/media/carbs_zps9c5d7bce.png.html?&_suid=136440841086906573787694421178 cant seem to post pics sorry :*(

:*( ill track the wireing and see what i find... im just happy i got this damn thing to start by the button... iv owned the bike for 2 months and never was able to fix that. then again it was not top of the list until a couple weeks ago.

ill just bypass the kickstand switch and call it a day. been running fine today.

not sure how the neutral switch works, i took the cover off and cleaned the wire that screws into the switch (obv caked with oil and sludge from the chain/sprocket. and took the switch off to reveal the little metal bead... but not sure how to test and fix it.

fixed the issue, solenoid was wired backwards. but bike still stalls when kickstand goes down even in neutral. currently bypassing the switch until i research that. thx for the support all

no oil light comes on. ill check that wire connection out today tho, omw to work on it now. im going to look over the turn key circuit today, seems like a long shot seeing i have spark but w/e

no power whatsoever to the push to start button. turn key, pull in clutch, kickstand up, in neutral, push "push to start button" and nothing, no clicking no reaction whatsoever. new solenoid, new battery, fully charged (problem starter befor these purchases) checked clutch switch, sidestand switch, and neutral switch, all appeared working (cleaned connections anyway) also, sidestand will kill engine when i put it down... in neutral and in gear. bike will start when i trip solenoid, and the wiring appears correct based on hanes manual. all 4 fuses are good and making clean connections possible dif problem? diode did appear to act up a few days ago but did stop, by acting up i mean when i pulled in clutch in gear the neutral light would come on, and then go off when i released clutch to shift up or down (lever that is). i read a ton of threads trying to track one with my problem and saw a forum or 2 about diode possibly causing this? lights all work, horn works, turn signal relay will click when clutch is pulled in and side stand relay clicks when kickstand is put up. sry if this is more info then required or not enough info. lemme know! and thanks in advance!!