j0hn

Managed to get a few things done so I can start crossing off the list. Cyclone V2 Motorcycle Alarm & Immobiliser There was like no space to place this anywhere. Could have stuck it behind the headlight but it was too visible so I managed to fit it snug under the seat. Was cutting it close because there is virtually no space under the seat. Works pretty well, alarm goes off and the bike turns itself off when you try to turn on the ignition without unlocking it. The remote start is also pretty sweet. Trail Tech Endurance II 2 Speedometer Was pretty easy to install. Replaced one of the front disc brake bolts with the magnetic one that was supplied. The hardest bit was drilling an 1/8" hole through the brake calliper to attach the sensor. Got the power feed to the speedo from the ignition so the backlight is permanently on only when the bike is turned on. It comes with an internal battery too so it works either way. Auto activates the display when it detects the front wheel is moving or if one of the buttons is pressed. Polisport Halo Headlight Love the look of this headlight compared to the stock one. Nothing to screw, it uses rubber mounts attached to the forks to hold it up. Apparently it's better for the light because the rubber reduces vibrations, should be good for those trail runs I guess . The stock doesn't have the "parking light", not sure if that's the correct term for it but it's the light that comes on when the ignition is on. There was no connector for that light so I had to tap into the ignition again to get a power feed. I'll need to lower the speedo down slightly because it's pretty exposed at the moment. Overall, looks pretty sleek. Exhaust Baffle Received this today and already noticed there was a problem. The bottom end of the baffle wouldn't go though because the exhaust is slightly smaller after the tip. Had to grind that circle piece of metal for it to fit. That stainless steel exhaust tip was a bit of hassle to drill into, didn't think they would be that hard to drill, might have just been my shitty drill bits though lol. To top it off, while I was screwing the end of the baffle into the tip to hold it in place, the head snapped off but it's screwed in pretty well so shouldn't be a problem. It was too late in the night so I couldn't really start the engine up but I'll give it a try tomorrow and see how it sounds. I'm still a bit sceptical about how this simple piece of metal tubing could lower the DB though. AC10 130/90-18 rear tyre The last thing I was working on today. Had to hold off this long because I was waiting for the tyre irons. Got the tyre old powdered and up when I inflated the new inner tubing, I noticed it was the wrong size (2.75/3.00 18). I should have checked when I got this from the shop, so now I'm having to wait a couple of days for a 120/90-18 (4.00/4.50). dt502001, I had a closer look at the axle and by the looks of it, it's slightly larger than the axle for the XT. I'll get you the proper measurements when I take my XT wheel off. Other things ordered Motul 5100 Engine Oil/Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid/Engine Ice coolant 9x7 road legal flexible number plate and a reflector NGK Iridium IX spark plugs Air filter/oil filter Green 12V Led light (going to try and fix up a neutral light) Banjo bolt for front brake Zefal Spy Mirrors (thanks to Ryan09 for the )

Impaled by a seagull? Didn't think they could do that much damage. I'm surprised insurance companies don't offer an additional seagull cover option .

I first read the company name as dildos, probably would have been a more suitable name after your experience.

Got this bike a couple of weeks ago and posted about it in sub forum. I've just had some time this week to start working on making it road legal. It'll be used as an off-roader and the XT will still be my commuter bike. I don't have a trailer so it needs to be legal enough to get me to the trails. Here it is in it's initial state. And next to my XT. I've had a lot of info from some of the members about where to begin in my first thread and a special thank you to dt502001 for covering a lot more detailed stuff . Initial issues No speedometer (only an odometer) Exhaust has no baffle Small number plate 6x5 (not road legal 9x7) Rear tyre for race/competition use only Rear brake light only works with foot brake (standard), must work with hand brake to be legal Push button to start the bike (not too comfortable with this so I'll be looking to install an immobiliser) This is only a bare minimum list. I have plans to mod it slightly for aesthetics - like replacing that hideous headlight and rear fender. I should have made this thread at the very beginning but I guess it's like a continuation from my thread in the bar because some of the parts have already been ordered, received and fitted. Initial order AC10 130/90-18 rear tyre Cyclone V2 Motorcycle Alarm & Immobiliser Trail Tech Endurance II 2 Speedometer Exhaust Baffle Polisport Halo Headlight UFO rear fender Bolt kit

One of them bricks it and drops the piece of bread on my front fender lol.

All valid points. It's not something that I do frequently. I've done it a couple of times to get past a couple of cars (doing so without crossing a sold white line) to turn left at the next junction. During road blocks/maintenances, I've probably filtered from the middle then switched to the left to get past cars that are too close together and then rejoin in the middle to carry on filtering.

Wow, some great tips here, thanks. I was following that 20:20 rule in that video and I think it's a good balance between a safe and dangerous speed for filtering. About the left side filtering (undertaking), sometimes you really have no choice and when the left side is clear, would you not be inclined to go down that way?

March to the grave - point of no return

dt502001, I think part of the problem here is that I have no idea what those listed things are doing, so fixing/checking them is considerably harder. How did you learn about the in-depth stuff? Exploring yourself? Books? Unfortunately, I haven't had a sneaky ride on it yet. I have no idea what it would feel like but I'm dying to try it out . Ryan09, it won't be a commuter. I have my trusty (knock on wood) XT for that. I plan to use it purely for off-roading unless my XT is out of action and I desperately need a ride. It doesn't have a key, just need to press a button to turn the ignition on. However, I bought a cheap alarm/immobiliser off eBay for about £30. Comes with a remote key to lock/unlock the bike. At least this way, nobody can come up, turn on and ride away.

Thanks again for looking into all this. Decalmx has good pricing on the kits compared to the UK but I know I'll get screwed over on import tax and customs if I order if from a US site. I actually just came across a UK site called http://www.mdracingproducts.co.uk which does full and individual kits for 2003 and also in black. So I'll have a look there and see what I can get. Spending so much money on this right now, I'm going to have to slow down a bit. Added the plastics to another day, just going to focus on the rear fender right now. Need to buy a rear tyre for my XT as well, which is coming just under £100. When I start going to the tracks, should be easier to compare what fits on the bike, good idea .

Thanks for checking. I might just buy the rear fender now and leave the brand new plastics for when I need to replace them after crashing and breaking the current ones during a session lol. No point in buying them now 'cause everyone is saying you'll end up dropping the bike. M10x1.25" is right but I had a look at the parts catalogue then an actual picture of the bolt and it turned out to be a single, not a double. Just in case someone wanders into this thread looking for the correct size for the banjo bolt .

My WR250 came with an AC10 front but a competition only rear tyre (M12 XC). So I've got a 120/90 AC10 rear that I'm going to fit. The tyre looks massive compared to the current one .

Thanks lol, I was told the 426s are crazy for a newbie. Good luck if it gets passed down to you . What you planning to do with your XT if you aren't going to fix it? Sell for parts?

So after reading back what you were saying about the tail tidy, I just realised they are different things. If I'm thinking right, the tail tidy goes on to the rear fender rather than eliminating the fender altogether? I've just spend the last couple of days trying to figure out how that Acerbis tail tidy I posted above is suppose to fit with the current rear fender off lol. So what you were saying was to get an Acerbis rear fender or a YZ fender and then stick the Acerbis tail tidy under it? Because it would look weird trying to fit onto the original fender that has its own light. I came across this UFO rear fender which seems to be the full thing and includes the rear light. This should avoid the hassle of trying to get a tail tidy to fit a normal fender right? I'm thinking of getting the black version of this and then buying some black plastics. I found a black plastic kit done by Racetech, however, the kit on eBay says it's for 05-06 versions and another for 07-11 versions. Would it be risky to get a set, I thought the WRs kept similar frame structure throughout the years. I looked on the Acerbis site and their plastic kits starts from 2004. It seems like the 2003 model is being ignored for some reason because they don't have side panels or radiator scoops for 2003, but have it for all other years starting from 2001, wtf .

The guy didn't have the manual but I managed to get a PDF version of it online. Thanks for checking the bolt size and yea, it's to put a front brake switch on. I've ordered some feeler gauges, those angled ones that fit better. Any idea what I should with the old speedo cable when that gets replaced? I know you can buy speedo drive spacers but is it ok to cover up the end point somehow? So that I've got a backup just in case the Trail Tech gives up. I'm just surprised it costs so much for a supermoto kit, it's only rims and tyres. Will you gain much by going up to 290cc? I've always thought such a small difference wouldn't make up for what its worth.

Wow, unlucky dude. I wouldn't have thought oil leaking in like that would have caused the engine to totally die. There is no way to fix it or just too expensive? What's next on the list, another XT lol?

Ahh, trimming the bolt isn't much of an issue. I was thinking of sticking an iridium plug on there and I'll make sure not mess up the boot, thanks for the tip. Oil level, no problem, I do like to take care of all the general maintenance quite frequently so that shouldn't be a problem at all. I'm lost when it comes to all this valve clearance maintenance though. At least I can work on this bike unlike my XT where I was in fear of losing a ride to get to places, hence why I didn't go into all the detailed work. The three grand mark is a scary price to pay though, so I'll need to learn about these valves, what they do and how to properly fix them. That's a good point about the bicycle speedos being too small. Another issues is that nearly all don't have a constant back light and usually turns off after a few seconds, not ideal imo. It's actually a toss up between a DT speedo or a Trail Tech. The cheapest DT speedo I came across was around £60 and the Trail Tech Endurance II is also in the same price range. So I think I'll be going for that instead, newer and sleeker looking. Thanks for all the help and support so far dt, it's great having another more experienced WRF owner so I'm not completely lost . I got myself a Hynes book for the WR so that should also come in handy. I'm not sure if the factory manual would have this info but I'm wondering if you know what the correct size for the banjo bolt would be? I've got a list to select from and not sure which is the right one: Single 10 x 1mm Pitch Single 10 x 1.25mm Pitch Single 7/16" x 24 UNC Double 10 x 1mm Pitch Double 10 x 1.25mm Pitch

Just an update on the indicator law, apparently, since the WR is an off-road bike and didn't come with any indicators, it's still legal to use on the road both day and night. This is an exception to off-road bikes. Great idea finnerz89, seems like I no longer need any parts from the X model so I'll go with a sleeker Acerbis. Also for the speedometer, I was suggested a DT 125 might fit pretty well since the DT and WR both use the same speedometer drive. A cycle computer is the other option if I don't find a DT speedometer for cheap. Thanks bippo, I'm dying to try it out !

Is that true for all WR/YZ versions? I am able to mix and match most parts without any issues? I read that the YZ rear fender needs cut to fit the coolant bottle. I assume since the YZ rear fender is smaller, there is no number plate light? I looked more into legalising and I do in fact need indicators if the bike is to be used after sun down, if not, it will only be allowed to be ridden during daytime. I don't want to risk being caught during a late session and end up getting stopped by the cops for not having any indicators during night fall, so I'll have to look for a rear fender with indicator support and also front indicators. There is nothing to really test for the exhaust as it's definitely too loud for the road, finding a baffle insert for it shouldn't be too hard. About the speedo, I'm still looking for a second hand one on ebay, no luck yet. Just wondering, what do those ratios (4:1, 5:1 etc.) mean? Grouch, I'd rather not spend £130 for the sake of having a speedo, trying to save money here lol . dt502001, I looked at the part numbers for the axle for both XT and WR. They are both different but there are some matching numbers in both. Not sure what that would mean, maybe a different model tag but the axle size is still the same? The XT is also due a tyre change so next time it's off, I'll compare the axle with the WR's and get back to you. I've seen a few pictures of WRs with SM wheels and they looked awesome . I haven't even had a shot at riding it yet, can't wait till it's all ready . Ordered tyre removal tools, an AC10 rear tyre and an MX lift stand. This is starting to turn into a project lol.

Name: Yamaha WR 250 F (2003) (2003) Date Added: 17 July 2013 - 12:41 AM Owner: j0hn Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

I think it comes with no chain guard from the factory, wouldn't hurt to add an aftermarket one though. And yes, it's really tall, I was worried when I first checked the seat height for the WR, but the suspension is soft enough for me to put at least one foot down . Here is a picture for comparison with my XT.

Well here it is Just to clarify: WR250F is the same as WRF250 right? I'm seeing a mix of both. Is there any where I could look to see what the exact ratio would be? Weirdly, parts and support for the WR250F seems to be lacking here in the UK. I noticed that both the US and the Australian markets seems to fully support the bike in every aspect. Good call about the plate light, I think that's required by law. Is this the Acerbis tail tidy you are referring to? The rear tyre is a MIchelin M12 XC (off-road use only) so I'm going to have to get an AC10 rear, not a biggie. This means I'll have to get some tools to change tyres on my own, anything else I should get apart from tyre iron(s) to do the job? The current exhaust has no "race use only" stamp, only has a BSAU mark. Not sure where I stand with this one. I was given the original exhaust but that only has a Yamaha part number stamped, again, not sure if the standard can is road-legal because no marking says otherwise. This is a picture of the current exhaust. I'm hoping it is road-legal and that the baffle has been removed then lost in the process. If so, anyone able to identify what exhaust this might be? As you mentioned dt502001, no front brake switch, I'll have to check if it's required since it's factory standard. Rear foot brake light works fine. So a recap on things left to do: Get a standard size licence number plate Look for a speedometer/odometer with the correct ratio Get an AC10 rear tyre + tools required for tyre removal/fitting See what the law is on the front brake switch, get a banjo switch if required Check if adding a baffle to current exhaust will make it road-legal, if not, check stock

£87? I hate you.

I'll look into getting a standard sized road legal number plate, not worth the hassle. I hear you can get one that can easily be removed (like a clip-on plate) because I'm not sure how even a shatter-proof full plate would survive off-roading. For the tyres, not sure what it currently has so I'll probably stick AC10s on it. Need to learn how to change the tyres myself lol. Same again with the exhaust, I'll see what markings it has and stick a db killer in like dt suggested. Wasn't aware of banjo brake switches, that's the lighting side of the bike sorted since indicators aren't required. DirtyDT, I was thinking of the vapor, but the pricing seemed too high. I would have never thought you could simply replace the odometer to a speedometer/odometer combo, thanks dt502001. So I take it the cable is a universal size so any device should work? Would the calibration be done in the meter manually or is that handled by the speedometer drive? Good to know the tail light is on when running and doubt it would have changed in 2 years either, thanks for letting me know. Sorry I've been pretty vague about the bike, I'll be getting it sometime this week so I'll post back exact details on it. Thanks for all the help so far guys .