UK_DT

You might be able to get a suitable replacement here: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/35

Not sure how the front indicators are wired on your bike, but if you only have a single indicator bulb in the instruments then both the left and right sides are wired into the bulb in the instruments. When I did mine, I had hazard flashers irrespective of which way the handlebar switch was pushed until I disconnected the instrument bulb. I used a 6V version of this relay: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/726/category/35

Do you have any pictures of the rebuilt carb - interested to see what it looks like after being cleaned sonically? Really enjoying your latest project - you're a motivational force for the rest of us!

Wasn't the 750 nicknamed "the widow-maker"? Yes prices have gone North at a rapid rate over recent years, partly as a result of normal investments having poor returns.

Still reckon those Kawasaki triples are/were the best sounding 2-strokes of all time. Have never ridden an H1 or H2, but thought the 400 was the sweet spot in the range.

I switched over to LED's on mine and used an electronic relay - works a treat and indicators flash consistently even when idling. Bulbs were off ebay and the flasher relay was from here: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/710/category/161 (but I'm sure you'd be able to get one locally). Only thing you have to do is disconnect one of the connections to the indicator lamp in the rev counter, else you'll just have hazard flashers. And you also need to do some patch cabling to connect the relay as the connections on the block connector are the wrong way round and I couldn't get the spades out of the connector. But as others have said, charging on your bike seems to be an issue.

Pictures of your bikes would be nice - never seem to tire (as in sleepy, not the black things that wrap around the wheels ) at looking at DT pictures! Welcome, btw!

£2,400 for this FS1E is just incredible, it looked in fairly poor condition. Just wished I'd kept mine!!

You must have a higher resolution monitor then me!

I just disconnected one of the wires to the dash bulb so that it only illuminates when switched left (or right, can't remember which). Not had any issue at MOT time. They work really well on my DT400 even bearing in mind the 6 volt electrics. Flash nice and bright and at a consistent speed when at idle too.

Sounds great and almost as good as Kawasaki triple Seems a good price for a nice, honest RD400 too.

That's true. Having been without a bike for more years then I came to mention, I now find that 30 is the new 50 (mph, that is!)

Which 2 stroke oil do you use in your DT400/250 MX? Is the synthetic worth using / of any benefit (such as Halfrauds - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_221521_langId_-1_categoryId_165507#tab1)?

Could well be the crankshaft seals. The LH side one, beneath the magneto, sucks in air once the engine is warmed up if it has hardened, making the engine run lean. The RH side one will suck in oil. My 400 runs fine until it's warmed up, then starts spluttering, doesn't run smooth on the overrun and general becomes a pig! Sadly a flat renovation is taking priority until it's ready to rent out (by which time summer (in the UK at least) will probably have passed. The LH one is an easy replacement (or so I believe). Once done, make sure the carb is correctly jetted (taking into account altitude), the float is free to move (mine was stuck) and give it a de-coke (if you haven't already done so). Then, happy riding!!

Is poor running (such as described in previous posts and the same as I have with my DT) MORE likely to be caused by the LH crank seal than the right hand one? I ask as it's obviously easier to get at and replace the LH seal than to drain the transmission oil, remove oil pump, etc. to do the RH side.

Superb restoration, great set of photos and a really good description of what you did. Thanks for sharing. It's given me the inspiration to get the few bits I need to do to my 400 before I ride it again during our long hot summer (I sure that's what they're predicting!!)

Ahhh, brings back memories!! Mine was a 76 DX in yellow and had a nose fairing too (which was fitted in a hopeless attempt to extract a few more mph from 4.8 bhp!!) Looks in great condition, have you any more photos?

Looks great and they're a fine looking bike, but then I would say that as I've got the same one!! What paint did you use on the barrel, head and the crank covers and what preparation did they get (assuming you needed to paint them)?

Why can't you change the bulbs to LED and fit a new relay? This place is quite good for all the bits: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk

You could also try emailing Yamaha customer services to get the age of the bikes at [email protected]. They provided me with the correct age details for my bike which differed from the age relating certificate that the VMCC provided. I'm still yet to take it up with the DVLA to see if I can get a correct age related plate.

I will shortly be replacing the crank seals on my DT400E and I thought that whilst the crankcase covers are off I'd get them cleaned up, any dents / scuffs repaired and repainted to original (or as close as) spec. Does anyone know of any company's around the Northwest (UK), preferably Manchester / Stockport way that could do this work to a good standard. And at the same time, do the barrel and cylinder head? Also, what would be the best finish for the crankcase covers? Powder coat, enamel paint, something else?? Same with the barrel and head. Thanks

Thanks for the info. Know all about caution with oil seals - once did a mini clutch and replaced the output shaft oil seal at the same time. Noticed oil dribbling onto drive way from clutch housing during the following week and then spent the next weekend doing the job properly 150 main jet is standard on the 250's, 190 on the 400's. Update: Just noticed that the jet I took out was either a 155 or a 165 - the middle number is a bit difficult to decipher - so not quite as small as I originally thought.

Having the same bike, I also have the same problems! Mine has done 4,800 miles and was imported from America a year or so ago. I thought it might be carburation so stripped the carb and found that it only had 150 main yet (guess it had been located high up in the mountains in its early life) and that the floats were stuck. Fitted a 190 jet and cleaned it all out and it felt a bit better, but still not right. From other posts it would seem that the crank seals are the likely culprits. Are they are an easy fit? I have the Clymer, Haynes and Yamaha service manuals but haven't checked yet. Also, are there any other tasks worth doing at the same time as the crank seals?

Thanks Airhead for the quick reply. Haven't dismantled the carb to check on main jet. I'll have a look at the choke to make sure that it's seating correctly, though the lever seems to "click" off ok. Hope it's not the crank seal, though being 34 years old I guess it could have hardened. Is replacement a big job?

I've just fitted a new NOS air filter to my DT400E as the original disintegrated as soon as it was touched! The new filter came sealed in a bag and was pre-oiled. Having been out for a reasonable run with a brand new spark plug fitted, I checked the plug condition on return and it has sooty deposits. This is sometimes attributed to the air filter, but with a new one I wouldn't have thought this would be the cause. However, I wonder if the oil in the filter has perhaps thickened in the time since it was made and is restricting air flow? Should I take the filter out and clean it and do they really need to be oiled for UK conditions? Also, the bike wasn't keen on being run at a constant part throttle opening, is there anything that can be done to improve this? I seem to remember it being mentioned in a road test, so maybe that's just how they are.