dt502001

A pack of smoke 10.00 a case of beer 24 x 341 ml bottels 40.00 more than 85% is tax. The same case of beer bought in the USA cost's 18.00 made here shipped there? small independent breweries can charge no less than 6.70 for a 6 pack even if they want to..Ontario gov rules. Homebrewing 6 cases of 24 cost me $21.00 to make and takes 15 -17 days to make. Tastes better and has no presertives = no hang over No tax native indian smokes 15 bucks for 8 packs. But illeagle for anyone not native to have. And the gov say's thier broke HUMMM

http://www.airtech-s...amaz/YZR350.htm they are just 1 of many companys who sell body work I just picked that 1 Would make a nick 350 mihgt go looking for a 350,they have 100's more body kits to chose from. Spark spliter =crap put a 12v system in palce and biger coil will work better.Or a full MSD ignition system but the weight would out weigh the hp gain.Google MSD if you don't know what it is. Nope less than 80% gets burnt 100% thats why they put cat converters on to burn the rest.

Just a quick note you can't flush out the crank through the drain plug you have to tip it upside down .Still not a fan of that method but it's your call.

Jets dont stick they get pluged up Reserve is determined by how tall the main feed pipe is in the petcock,some bike have a large resv. As cynic suggested onlly removing the carbs and giving them a good cleaning will you know if they are the root of the problem. If the bike sat for a while before you bought it they probably need cleaning.Fule dries up and leaves nasty crud in the circuts. Getting them out may prove difficult as the air box rubbers will have gone hard by now ,warming them up with a heat gun will help and removing the bolts holding the air box in place will help give you a bit more room to work the carbs out. The other possibitly is that the valves need adjusting

Yep definatly a 5 $ wps would fix it.... a propre intro and we can decode what wps are.

O well do it wrong enough times and you will have payed for a new one soon, but each to his own.

LMAO not a chance anyone here know's anything about them old bikes,ooppss maybe time to....sleeeeeeeeep LOL you going to be over whelmed with info about the bike. Hang on and welcome to the YOC

Got to agree the bts are great but sticking to my mich piolt's on the 12 ????? why i don't want to say have to kill you then. LOL they seem to wear better... sticky wise ummmm have to do laps on the clock to tell the diff.

Torque wrench saves much hassel.... about 50 bucks for a 1/2 decent one 10 for a cheap one. Both work if adjusted properly Let us know if this worked for you

LOL sacha bibpo not saying anything ( welcoming commitie good cover) :ninja: Hahah hope you can take a joke turbospark :yeahthat:Welcome to The YOC

I have been folowing this for a while and what it all boils down to is DBA's the USA were more forgiving on noise than the UK ,so yam up the intake a we bit by puting the snorkel on and hence givin a small% of more air to the box. The bikes that came to canada had way bigger holes..nobody gave a flying f about db's then here, most bike imported to the USA had to meet caliafornia rules which were very strict then and even more now. Hell in some parts of Canada you can still pull a car or bike out of a field and if you can get it running ..wel than drive it.... no ?? asked. If a bike cant meet 82 dba in cali and lot of other states it's not road worhty by law,,hahaha ask any hardly rider if his bike meet that rule NOT likely. And the test must be done in 2nd gear at @ 40 or some stupid thing like that so that includes exhaust and intake noise.You might not hear it on the bike but it is making noise. Open the box up with a 2.1/2inch hole saw and Hook up a wide band and,, re jet the bike,,, if you guys want to look hard enough the bikes came here with way biger air intakes and a rubber to stop water from gettin in,in deep water. Just looking at the picts you guys have posted I know ours were way bigger. And guys were still drilling hole's in the box top As a matter of fact I remember years ago at the trac someone pulled that snorkel off for a guy and he was way happier after

AHH Boon all thing must die sooner or later .......perferbably the horses first ..i am tired of the smell of sh*t Oh yes I did just say that 1 horse =1 hp ... 1 bike can make 300hp and you don't need a shovel to clean up after it.

No problem Just out of curiousitey how much did the new switch cost?? less than the DIY?

Cynic 60 a gallon try 14 a liter. Who cares.. Thats not my point anyway most wont spend that kinda $$ per liter for oil anyway and should be changing it out, so by your saying it " can double that" is not right And Dirty Dt remind me never to sit beside you If you can only change your underwear 1x a month.... Wait no need I don't think I will ever forget that......... ooo bad thoughts... musssttt kill ..ehhh dieing ..eeehhh thud.

LOL on its not low compression if the bike will bump/push start. Get a used start button Just get the whole housing and get rid of that mess about 20 bucks from a wrecker.The ground must have gone bad for it to melt the wires or they shorted together. Next behind 1 of the side cover is the selonoide that the start button connects to 2 large wires battery feed and starter feed. and 1 small that is the start button wire. To check the starter. you touch a jump wire ( use jumper cables but just the same one red or black) across the 2 large terminals the starter should turn over as long as you hole the jumper wire on,if not check the wires for corrosion and check the terminal at the starter as well. If it still dosen't turn over fast the starter is probable nackered.If you have a volt meter put it on the battery and chech the voltage drop while cranking ,it shouldn't drop below 10 v.. You can also remove the wire feeding the starter and feed it battery + directly. If it turns over fast whit everthing hooked up then try touching a jump wire from the battery + to the small wire if it does nothing the selonoid is nfg. Most of what you have said makes me think the starter is shot. If the starter wires melted together the starter would have engauged and run untill someone cut the wires or disconnected the battery.That alone could kill a starter. They arn't made for constant running only short (less than 30 seconds) befor they get hot and melt internal wires. Burn the comutator and brushes. Changing the starter is a un bolt and re bolt job. Welcome to the YOC

LMAO just imagin how fast it is with a non seized eng.

The vacuum is from the eng via the carbs, Check the diaphram for pin holes and the round rubber with 4 holes and the hose from the carbs to valve. The small screen won't make it flow less installed the flow worked well for years thats not the problem. either the diaphram has a micro hole or the vac line is pluged /cracked not sealing tight,or the rubber with 4 holes has shifted.

I have a tool made by snap-on,it's a 1 foot long shaft with a 90 deg bend @ 2 in long, cable shaft inside that is turned by a thumb wheel . I can attach different 1/4in sockets to . But it,s 95 bucks For a/f scerws I use a small flat blade attachment @ 1/4 in wide. For the wr I run a Sunline a/f mix screw that needs no tools to adjust it has a thumb wheel on the end,you remove the stock a/f screw and install thiers in the same # of turns then adjust to what works for different temps. www.sunlineracing.com

??? did you turn it the wrong way and break it,it should have come out quite easy. You can pick up a bolt extractor set and back it out ,but it might just turn out by taping a flat screw driver into the hole.Don't hammer the driver in just tap it in enough to get a grip on the bolt. if you hammer it in youwill put to much pressure on the threads making it harder to turn out.

Holy crap you guys are cheap .. A oil change costs less than 20 bucks and save's a engine from unnessary wear and will run many more miles with fresh blood. Dirtydt didn't you have to cut the swing arm axel out of the 250 because it was never greased.How much grief would it have saved you if it had been done 2 -3 days of work?And buying all new parts. That 2 dolars of greas would have been cheaper A tub of grease and a tube of brake slider lube,chain lube will cost less than 25 bucks and last years, maitence cost nothing if you do it yourself, buying cable lube will not swell your cables.And in the long run save you $$$ on replacing worn parts. Spending a few more $$ on a sealed gell battery will save your bike from acid gases rotting your bike and never needs checking and they tend to last longer so the cost is about even. And if you happen to end up sideways on the road they don't leak. Washing you bike is the easyiest way to save money dirt on top of dirt tends to find it's way into places it shouldn't be, salt eats your bike a clean chain will last 2x longer,and keeps the value of the bike up for resale.And for novice riders it's the best way they can learn what looks right and what dosen't. Hell we wash r bikes between races 1 your bike weighs less 2 you can't service a dirty bike without getting dirt in placse it shouldn't be. However I did forget to mention antifrezze and checking your spokes will edit that and air filters and valve adjust. This wasn't for old farts like us who have been riding for years more for the new riders who don't know how to take care of the ride yet. And women like a guy who dosen't look like a grease bag and you bike is going to reflect that. and for the ladies no guy wants a dirty girl unless were talking about sex. Maintaing your bike keeps you safer and it will last longer! Break downs happen but short of a flat tire most can be avoided with simple maitence.

1 change your oil every 3 months.or 3000 miles 4x bikes...... 2t gear oil 1 x a year Minuim 2 check tire pressures 1x a month and check your chain adjustment/lube it more often if you ride alot or in dirty conditions. 3 change your brake fluid at least 1 x a year 4 check and adjust/lube all cables every wash if needed. 5 re grease all wheel bearings and piviot points 2x a year. 6 wax your bike at least 1 x a year( personaly I do it 4x a year) 7Once a week at least wash and get to know how everything looks right on your bike,doing this will get you familar with how everything is and is supposed to be. 8look at the brake pads and watch them wear,replace before they are 65-70% worn out If you just bought a new bike do everything above mentioned before riding it. From the factory or the last owner you have no idea if the greases is thier or not. Most certinaly from the factory the axels will have little or no grease on them. Add any more if you think it's absoutly nessary for basic maintence.Some may think it's overkill BUT my bikes never break down from lack of maintence or attention from knowing something is worn down and in need of replacement!

Michale it would seem to me that most don't bother to change brake fluid in your neck of the woods try that first.And lube the sliders on the caliper

Clean all earth grounds 1st, then post a hello inthe new members section and get back, Knocking noises can come from a multiude of places plesae try to narrow down when and how it make the noise.

without quoting and re visiting all you have mentioned Ventura...You point on jetting on dyno or anyother method your's best ..without a doubt. but without the o2 sensor ..I have tried to mention why it's so important to do wfo plug chops, as that when any 2t will run lean and blow. The rest of tuning can be done without a o2 sensor to suite your riding style. Altuitde is so important we try to run 14.7:1 in summer and lower in winter here in South western Ontario if I try to run my bike in say North Bay I have to re jet as i am 500 ft more above sea level. hence why fi bikes work better.

Yep doing often is better,gives you a chance to see whats going on inside the motor without taking it apart. Have a good look at the oil and filter for bits of metal and bronze bushing every time you change the oil if you start to see lots then something is going bad. I use valvoline 10 w30 in cloder temps and 10-40 in hotter temps,the whole bs about not using car oil cause it will make your clutch slip is a old wives tale made up by someone to charge you more for a liter of oil.