dt502001

Not if you wrap a towel around first, yep the wr's fork is a fine tuned piece, just the proceedure to get the oil in is a page long in the factory manual and that has to be exact for each different weight of rider,then the preload and damping has to be set as well,john at progressive has all his customer on file down to thing's like how much fuel you typicaly run,type of boots and helmet and updates your weight on the day you drop off your fork ,he weighs you on his scale. NO bs'ing him on that. All of that gets caculated into the formula for setting up your fork,He only repairs forks and shocks that's it and you have to remove them, he is so bussy it's typicaly a 2-3 day wait to get them back Shame his uncle didn't know how to do fork seals and made such a mess of it,they could be welded up and trued on a lathe as foams said but probably cost more than the used forks,O well the owner now knows to make sure the preson doing work for him from now on knows what they'er doing before letting them butcher it

Billy the throttle cable being jamed is what is causing your problem get a new 1 Then if you still have problem I would be supirsed

yo Foams had a few have you Remember no ebay alowed after or tomorow I bought WHAT

Just got back from a loooooong ride up to the beach's of lake hurron about 6hrsriding and 2-3 having dinner and a bit of tourest shopping with my GF and your just getting off work THAT SUCKS for you. I know that 1 in a1000 that the cdi unit fails slowly thats why i said last thought hopefully it just a bad spark plug or something simple

Oh crap I should have told you how to change the oil as you need to undo all 3 bolts to get all the oil out,1 at the bottom of the frame 1 on the lower eng and the 1 at the filter . Next time don't run the bike for more than 30-40 seconds then top it up, it's a ROYAL PITA to do a oil change esp if you don't know how my bad.I completly forgot to tell/mention this to you.But I guess you know how to do it now Be watching tommorow to see how my bike will look with that new fender LOL your bike that is,,, bet the bank account is taking a beating over this new toy,do i dare ask how much?

Most likely then the PO had tried to get the seals out without removing tubes,I have a method of doing it,that dosent dammage anything but won't post it because if done wrong,or someone else dose it wrong or get's hurt doing it then I'm liable.I can get a set of fork seals in and out in minutes without dismanteling the fork dosent work 100% of the time but about 98% it does.. The funny part is I don't do my own forks I let the pros do it so the fork is set up for my weight,I have tried to duplicat what they do,ie exact amount of oil each screw turned the same and it just never seems to be the same as when they do it so for the 50 bucks they charge I let them do it. For the average rider most wouldn't know the difference and I don't mind fixing fork seal for them but for me ,I belive the pro's have some secrects that they won't tell and it makes my bike better so ,,not to plug a company.. BUT Progressive Suspension does all my suspension work for my bikes. I will give everyone a hint though as to how i get the seals out ,,extra oil and the retaing cilp removed, a bottle jack, and a proper seal driver,if you have done fork seals befor you should be able to figure out the rest yourself. PS even if you talked it over with the guy "talk is cheap" and as most peeps are cheap he would have said yes do it and the when it failed he would be blaming you for ducking it up,, possibly wanting you to pay for it to be fixed properly and if he took it to court you would have to... not worth the hassel.. hope the "new" forks are good enough to work with.

Not only not worth the cost but what ya going to doo 10 years from now when they stop making them and it's broken,personaly I would stick with what works KISS theroy and not mess with it.

Well the cdi unit would be my last thought. Pluged air filter,fouled spark plugs/HT leads,crap in the carbs,compression test first points to check,if it's running the the cdi unit is working. Sounds more like running on 1 cylinder. But as you said vauge symptoms,good luck sorting it out.

2000 the 10th diget is the year of manufacture

Hey Lee as I put in your first post and air head has suggested again the slide must be in backwards,but it should run like that for more than 10 seconds unless you hit the kill switch for fear of it blowing up.Even with the slide in backwards it will run with starter fluid but won't idle as the slide is half way up the bore . If it died all on tis own then your carb isn't getting fuel,did you open the drain screw as I suggested to see if the carb has fuel in it? How about them pict's love to see some old original stuff esp if you kept it nice and not left out in the weather to rot away. Anyway let us know how you make out,lots of dt fans here willing to help

Ok so we have bits of alli and steel mixeing on all sorts of things( bikes cars generatros ECT..) and creating corosin,we have all tryied different things to stop the melding of metals. Oils 's elect's devices" rust inhibitor's So after a common problem ,with a certian vehicle not bike related but could be,It got me to thinking about this sort of thing.http://www.life.umd.edu/vdac/aluminum.htm . Read if you like and add if you have something new! What does the YOC think?

As a licenced mechanic I would say don't fix it,only because of libality issues,it's not your bike so if the owner get hurt because it leaks againg or completly blows out, then your liable. If it was your bike and your will to chance it then thats a different story,realy this isn't your problem and the owner is the one paying for the repair . So if it cost more so what . There must be some used legs some where to keep the cost down thats the safe way to go

Well John it's not that i can't afford them just looking to do it on the cheap,as they won't get used much open paved track days and possibly a few SM races,SM racing is catching on around here but few races per year and lots of traveling to get to the races.So mostly the Sm wheels would be sitting in the garage, I'm starting to lean towards a set of cast wheels as I can get some for around 2-300 hundred,but then I will have to make spacers for the axel and a hanger bracket for the front caliper to run the 320mm rotor all doable but a PITA,was looking for a simple way. The wrx didn't sell well here so tryin to find some from the wreckers is like collecting rocking horse shit. As for the straps don't they just hook quickly together,I know about the fact that they just barely fit the massive fork streched to the limit,thats why I said un doo them when parked.The UFO ones are most likely the same. Now there's a complement,just look at his bike and the work he put into it

I can't see why that packing wouldn't work,just don't wrap toomuch around the baffel ,don't want to choke it . The brake squeel could be from the type of pads,but I would try greasing the backing contact ares,and shamfering the edges of the pads,but don't worry too much about it they might quiten right up when wet if they do then the po put hard pads on,Great for muddy riding but hard on rotors,I put sbs on mine but can't remember wich ones LOL I know they were mid between hard and soft Dosent look like the xt wheels will work then,doubt anyone makes a 35mm od 22mm id bearing,that only leaves 13 mm for bearings and races so @ only7mm for bearings,I'll have to lookinto that Thanks for checking it out now I know what I'm looking for,,there has to a few of them xt's in the wreckers over there and would be alot cheaper than the rims I could find here. The headlight strap undoo them when your not riding the bike they only last a couple of year before they start cracking,had to buy new ones for my bike only 20 bucks but now I know not to leave them tight hopefully they will last longer?

Hi lee this is the section for just sayin hello,and telling the members about yourself hobbies skilllevels ect..as this is a first post and involves a question your not going to get responces,too many come get answers and bugger off never to be heard from again,not even a thankyou... repost it in workshop after you do a proper intro. if gas flows from the tank valve then the float is most likely stuck,or the guy never rebuilt the carb , at the bottom of the carb is a drain screw open it and see if fuel flows out.Also it is possible to put the slide in backwards the cut out side goes to the air box. Kinda sounds like you put it in backwards.

Lookin good,let me know if the mirrors actualy work or just show pieces. I figured the axel would be bigger but posibly just a bearing swap to mak the xt rims work, while you have it apart can you check the bearing OD size and ID sizes or just get the #'s off the bearings from both. And that Trail teck is so cool going to get 1 for my bike,curious how easy is it to set for lap times and use for that?Like are you going to loose time pressing buttons just to record your laps times or would it be just a quick hand off the bar and back on. That little pipe is the cheap version of a DB killer but will work well,you should probably pull it back out and fix the broken screw befor it falls out or vibrates a bigger hole in the can.It work's by making more back pressure. after seeing your baffel I'm suprised that it wouldn't pass a Db test with just some packing.I bet that it was packed and over time the PO didn't bother repacking it aft it all blew out. A wee bit of fiber glass house insulation would work just fine for that Drilling SS is a PITA drill slow with lots of lube is the best way but you got it done allready Edit ps that head light will work 10x better than the stock I put a UFO one on mine and what a difference I never bother with the day light( the extra little one you were talking about) as the light is on as soon as you start the bike any way

Any deasteeler that won't deal on a new /old bike don't waste your time there are lots that will .I saved 2g on mine and it was 1 month from being a year old,bought the bandit in december. And the wr saved about 1500 buying it in the spring of 02

Yep look around on forums you'll fiind lots of complaints about 2nd gear not holding,though shouldn't be that much of a problem for you to spilt the case and fit na new fork,with all the motor heads around you

Your most welcome ,thank you .how about a new pict when you get it done I can't waite to see what my bike would look like in street trim.

The Wr gets washed after every ride and the Bandit weekly when riding and once befor winter storage,I figuer I spent close to 20 grand on them and want to keep them as long as possible took me a while to save the money to buy them so I'm not going to let them rot away for lazieness. Also as I put in another post it gives me time to check the bike over and I have never had a road side problem ,you can't properly lube a dirty chain ,alowing dirt to build up will find it's way into seals and bearings causing them to wear faster. Besides I get alot of complements when asked how old my bikes are and I tell peeps that they are 01 models,typicaly ' wow it looks alot newer than that". Or ' realy it looks new" I don't want a electric bike and all the new bike are so i'll be keeping the bikes I have,no chance of fixing a injector/fuel pump problem at the side of the road/trail. My bikes might not be as fast as new models but plenty fast enough for me and each bike has been tweeked to my taste so i take care of them ,and they never let me down and part of taking care of them IMO is keeping them clean

Hey Sacha drilling out the original should pose a problem if you decide to put the original motor back in as you can slip a couple of washer on befor the nuts and wont hurt anything,or while you have the other motor appart put the larger studs in,I would because they are stronger Then even the purest wouldn't know. Anyway keep up the good work nice to see your so close to riding it now.

Glad you didn't get hurt,I'm with Norcot I clean my bike's weekly and it' forces me to look at every part of the bikes and that's when I find things that might become a problem. and my rides stay nice and new looking

How old are the spark plugs ? and what colour are they could be that your spark is weak and not giving a complete burn of the fuel. Not that you ever get 100% burn but it can drop quite abit with old dirty plugs,even more with low compression. And dirty oil can efect the compression. Dirty oil and dirty plugs = poor fuel mileage

hey Mike welcome to the club,nice to have another Canuck on board,check your PM.

Remove the speedo cable and give it a good shot of wd 40,,up through th hole the cable fits in,your dials are stuck together and rotating as 1 or your speedo is just about ducked from winter/wet riding. Tiny little springs in there, that must be buggered if spraying it dosent work