dt502001

She sounds like a tuff girl,glad she will be ok ..tendon dammage can be real tricky sometimes they shrink when they heal You know she's going to bust your balls about the blade being left and rightfully so,didn't your mom teach you to put your toy's away when your done playing with them. Best be making her as comfee as possible when she gets home, , the next 10-15 day's are going to be a real PITA for her untill it heals. You said she fell from the ladder anyother dammage?

Hey Paul the only way for 2x oil to get into the mag is from the crank seal,a bike of the vintage should have the crank seals replaced as by now the will have dried up and will blow the motor if they suck air. You will need a puller to remove the flywheel. 20-30 bucks tops.to replace the seal on that side. As for the carb soak it in desiel for a few days and see if the slde will come free.

Take the float and put in a container of gas and weight it down for a hour then see if it floats. If it floats then you haven't set the float height correctly or the needle and seat are worn. When you cleaned the carb did you note the number of turns on the pilot screw and correctly reinstall it? Just because the fuel end is clear dosen't cancel out the air side of the circut. Also did you remove the emlusion tube( the brass tube that the main jet fit's into) the pilot is responsable for 95% of the idle but the main will be pulling fuel past the emlusion as well thats why you have to adjust your idle by the height of the slide Using spray carb cleaner is fine for a carb that was in use daily to remove the small film that can build up but to fully clean a carb that has been left to go to jelly/crustations you need to soak the carb for days or have it ultrasonic cleaned. Throw it in a buccket of deisel for a couple of days,or what i doo is use a jug with a lid just big enough to fit the carb and fill it with carb cleaner,fire up the lawn mowwer and set it on,poor mans ultara sonic vibrator so to speak. The only difference between a "carb pro" and anyone else is experience and careful instalitaion of the parts,tuning a carb is a different matter but if your using the original carb then it just needs to be fully cleaned and assembled correctly,proper turn's on the pilot and float height are the 2 most important.

Don't listen to this bunch put nitros on it, half fill the tank with c5 race fuel,it's only 135.00 for 5 gallons. Remove the rear shocks and install some light weight aluminum struts,drill every bolt out to remove the extra wieght,remove the seat,signals,head light,side pannels. fenders When riding don't sit on the bike lay flat, remove all clothing and wear a speedo this will reduce you wind drag, get a grapleing gun and hook yourself to a bmw driver they are always dooing a ton and they don't signal so you don't need to either Or you could just buy a bigger bike.It's a 125 just accpet the facts and enjoy the ride at 60 you see more than at 100

All I can say is if your only using your rear brake for 20% your braking doing it all wrong,the front brake is for slowing down quickly the rear is for setting up the pre load on the suspension,so the bike set's it's self even in the conner and dosen't fish tail and if needed you can set a drift up to square a cornner. You sitill ride like the guys in the 80's if you brake with 80% front and HOPE to catch the rear as it set's down after massive braking with the front alone smooth braking say 70-30 set's the bike up better for a cornner just watch the fast guy's in GP and if you want to be fast in SM or ice or flat track. you better learn how to use the rear brake and pitch it in on a slide using a counter steer method,and most street rider's would be using a Sm riding style if they want to be fast on the street. I personaly think your conversion is wrong,i would never trade a disc for the extra weight of a drum,it goes against all principals of rotating weight and quick turning. Not to mention how a drum sucks in the rain/wet conditions. So while you have given people a choice,I would never suggest it to anyone

As the dashes seem to be prone to failuer,it could have been replaced. Another possibility is the bike was sold new in 2011 or 12 and as metioned by everyone else not ridden much. Things to look at are1) the grips and levers do they look worn 2) the chain and sprockets have they been adjusted(wrench marks on the bolts) or does the sprocket look worn 3) The tires should still have some nibs left on them and look to see where they were made it will be on the tire sidewall. Milages is not so important as long as you do all of the maitence now and continue to do it as needed at 700 it's due for a valve adjust,oil change and a general once over of all the bolts and nuts,steering head bearing adjustment, that is all part of a first service and might not have been done. As your new to the site and we have no idea fo your ability to deal with whirlie bits,all I can say is the first service is not hard armed with a manual and a few basic tools (save for a feeler gauge) you can doo it all yourself. You did the right thing by posting a hello first Good luck and welcome to the YOC. PS everyone love pictis so post 1 up of your new steed

Good choies Noise either plan to fail or fail to plan. Ya got a free new lid tommy a bit of salt and pepper can make anything taste good,alas you don't have to LOL Noise came to his own sence or the meme's would have been comming..Toast anyone.

Sorry to have to ask but,,,,,, if I have read this correct you have converted a disc to drum brake system and if so why? ,or you have made a new sprocket carrier to fit a alloy arm..... after reading it 3 x I'm still lost as to what you have done,I am guessing the latter as the picts show a drum could you please clear this up if for no one else but me.

Your goin to all this work then why not drill holes in the bars and pull the wires through for a ultra clean look? 1 hole near the switch and 1 in the bottom between the bar clamps a bit of cover to run them under the tank , a micro kill button mounted in the bar end

Nope lallsro your bike is 12v,looked like a fun ride EDIT :NOT just watched the freeway part boring snoose at least it was a good turnout

That sucks,have you checked the oil level/thickness for fuel contamination. I had that happen years ago and thought I had blown the eng and got lucky with a oil change. Got 2 extra liters out thin as water,the bike ran fine after it had some oil to cushion the parts ,,but the cam lobes took a nasty and had to replace them shorty after. Your not havin a good week,good thing it didn't happen at squires. BTW nice lookin free bike to start working with,, in your hands I'm sure it will be a beauty when done

Congrats tommy you'll have to post a pict of your new lid,I was out by 20 so wouldn't have mattered if I rembered to send a PM.

Fitting a single larger disc is less work,all you need to make is a bracket to move the caliper out and find a larger disc with the same bolt pattern.Better yet is to fit a newer caliper at the same time a 4 or 6 pot will have you stoping on a dime. with a 290-310mm disc I guess it comes down to do you wan't to retain the original look or go with a" I mean bussiness" look,drewp's conversion looks so good most would think it was stock.But it adds weight and a 250 needs all the help it can get it the weight department. Nice to have a engineer on board,can always use someone who can do the caculations,haven't heard someone use the term fulcrum point in a while. Shortie adjustable levers might just do the trick for you as you can change the engaugment point like these ones http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/pazzo/adjustable-levers.htm along with some new sintered pads. as Blackhat suggested.

hey groucho your still alive thats good, shame about work,tighten the belt a bit and get that bike fixed to regain your fredom,. Good luck dude

Code 19 is a common fault with the ybr 125,it's deals with the blue wire to the cdi,check old threads here it's been discused at length.

LMAO we got elvis ,so r u chewey now drewp's? or darth v .....nope c3p0 smooth top haha what do you brows to find this stuff

MAC" is there not a window on the timming cover to make starting easier ? I remember reading something about alinging the red dot.possibly it has been painted over. Thoes bikes can break your foot if they kick back,my wr250 is bad enough. I brussd my foot realy good wearing runners just to load the bike on the trailer oneday,It took a bit to get the hang of starting it when Ifirst got it,now 1st kick. That plug has been in since the PO painted the bike,so Iwould guess maintence was a low priorety. Blackhat ttb's bikes could make a callender all on thier own

test

toocoolhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoiVtXtS444&feature=player_embedded

Don't stress about this job it's a easy one,just remove each plate 1 at a time and make note of which way they fit the steel ones that is they have a sharp edge on one side and a curved on the other sharp goes in. some yam steel plate have a section that has a tit,not completly round and need to be set 180 apart then 90 ect,if the first steel plate is fully round then dont worry about that just make sure you get the sharp edge in. If the steel plates have blued from slipping just scratch them with some sand paper and full clean them, soak the new fiber plates in oil over night before installing. Also before removing the pressure plate make note of it's position,a black pen marker on the outer and inner makes it easy to reinstall in the same positoin,or scratch a mark with a sharp knife. Do NOT over tighten the spring bolts just snug them down,I wouldn't even suggest using a torque wrench for this as most are not good enough and we have had a rash of broken bolts.Just down to tight is perfect the spring will keep it tight. Some blue thread locker is good to use on all the bolts. When your going to do this post it and then if you need help I can get on and lend some advice if needed

LOL I knew you would come around to your sences and see it my way.Serious though with the theme your going for I think the coffin will look great and as very few are building that way your bike is going to turn heads. If the tank is way expensive they aren't hard to make,tape cardboard cutout's together to fit the bike and then trace to alli or steel cut and weld all together.Most shop that sell metal have a sheer to cut out the pieces so you get perfect clean straight cuts,then it just a matter of welding slow so you don't warp the pieces To get a better idea of what I mean skip ove to xt 500 idle thread and Tommy ten bike has a picture of the tank he's havin built you can see the cardboard cutout for the next piece to be made and thats a curved tank way harder to make than the flat chunks of a coffin tank. PS how long does it take to make toast in that thing taped to the bike now,it's fruginugly

37 if I win keep the lid and send hannah over instead LOL had trouble counting my eyes kept getting stuck. Um Foams you should switch ins co's,with all the buying and selling you could go see her every week My appoligies Hannah your a eye sight though

SHOW OFF fancy red arrow. The dakar will bee ultra cool,not goig to see that everyday

Hi 636 if sport touring is your goal I would go with a fj100 or 1200.low comfee seat great handeling and most of all more than enough power to hall gear and pass with ease lots of aftermarket stuff too welcome to the YOC the 80's were great

I'm prety sure with that style of carb it's a brass flat slot screw,not a quick adjust knob like th dt, If not, than the pullie that holds the push pull cables will have a screw to adjust. Idle is alway controled by holding the slide up on a carbed bike,so what holdes it up from seating in the throught of the carb