dt502001

Kim this might sound absoutly nuts but are you shure you not turning the choke the wrong way.Realy sounds like you just having trouble with the choke circut cold once it warms up you turn it off ( but in your mind you turned it on) and the bike idles properly. I am have trouble gettting this the symptoms of hard starting from cold and increasing revs as it warms is exactly what the bike would do if the choke was on,and once warm if you turn it off it would settle into tick over. You just did the T/E of the motor R U shure the valves are adjusted properly .002 intake clearence and .004 inch exhaust.

Just reading this and thought I would pop in. most cars use horns of aprox the same size same voltage but are of the french horn ( musical instrument ) style, get 2 and wire them in together and you will piss yourself the first time you hit the button.But everyone else around you will too. So a quick trip to the auto wreckers and a few bucks and presto you got train loud horns. PS: they also come with the same style bracket to mount to the forks.

Wednesday of what year LOL your dealing with a dealer in Canada remember. All is looking pretty good dude . Once your glue job set's up at room temp then giver a good flex befor you start painting,I have found that the gule method is ver strong ,but , dosent want to flex without cracking. The only way I have found to weld plastic back together is to use stirps of the same type of plastic ( ie from a pannel from the same bike) so you know for sure it's of the same composite.And dril a 1/8" hole at the end of each crack before fixing this stop the crack from "running" past the original end point. In my youth I worked in a plastic injection moulding factory for a year or so and we made many different parts ,,that all when done looked the same but underwent sterss testing with different mixes of plastic .At the factoy they had atleast 50 different compounds of "virgin"plastic pellets to make parts from ,as well as different ratio's of reground left over"s from the last parts made.So just because it " ABS" dosent mean it's all the same ABS You can get a flexiable primer for car bumpers and does work quite well for what your doing.

Your 1 lucky dude Mr DDT a girl who like bikes and encourages you to buy them,apparently is hot to the eyes,and keep finding the deals on some desirable bikes. My hat goes off to you,I must be looking the opsit way in life cause I cant find the bikes I want or the one girl who I will give up my single life for.O well I dont have to ask anyone if it's ok to spend my money when I do find the bikes LOL. Big question is when are you going to find time to ride them all and finnish them all,get laid ,eat and work + keep the newbees from posting workshop ?'s in the newmembers section ?

You forgot to add beer to dinner's soup LOLOLOL. Well I was typing this all out before you posted so here it is any way and yep could be CDI read below Ok so your going to be taking the plug out,cut a 10 inch piece of coat hanger rod and slip it in to hole,remove timming mark plug,The small one now does you bike have a kick start? if it does then slowly find TDC and monitor the position of the rod if it still moving up or down when the TDC mark on the case is lined up to the TDC mark on the flywheel come up then the fly wheel key is bent......Honestly though I doubt it. If no kicker then just turn the back wheel with the bike in top gear noting when the rod is fully Up and check to see if the timming marks line up. Or turn it over with a socket on the crank bolt for the flywheel. If you dont have a timming light to check it make one out of a bulb and some wire and hook it to the coil feed wires,I made one years ago out of a old flash light ( torch to you ) search on utube someone must have posted a video about how to make 1 then you could crank the eng and check the timing.If your short on cash to buy a cheap one or cant borrow one. Possibly the hard starting was due to a cdi starting to go. I had a rz 350 that drove me nuts 1 day walk out kick it and starts normal next day kick it 25 times befor it would start and then run fine,,or cut out at a stop wait 5 min and would start again.The spark was always good when I checked it but out of timewhen I checked it with a light one day it was not starting.Had another rz and swaped CDI and bike ran fine. As Dirty said time to stop shot guning the fix and get some facts,you have spark so spray some run muther faker at it and see what that does if the timming is out then it will back fire or shoot flames out the exhaust.

You will probably have to ..to get the nut back on now the paint should make it bigger ,change the thread pitch and ect...If not they wer pretty rotten to begin with if you can spin a nut on.

Its just as fast as a hardly hahahahahahah

Now you have to clean the threads of the exhaust studs,that will tell you how hard the paint is

haha was typeing when you posted you last. That paint flows out nice when heated and should last as long as the original,did a eng???? 10 yrs ago for a guy who never get's his bike dirty and it still looks great and that was a fj 1100/1400 kit motor. Wise move on your part to run outside right after spraying the primer,thats nasty shit you would still have a head ache from it .

LMAO I was to busy to respond to your texts glad you figured out how to get the sleeves back in.Didnt even read them till you had it fixed. Bet you never thought you would learn how to change sleves,or would have even attempted it afew months ago before meeting this bunch. If you had said for hand that you need to bake the paint at that temp for that long would have for warned you,what kinda paint did you get?

What ever you do DO NOT heat the old seal's to remove them,Viton once burnt changes its chemicla propertys and if you touch a vinton seal once it been burnt it can cause a flesh eating condition and the only way to stop it is to cut the skin off below the infected area.

O Just one thing it better to have the valve in the head bfore you put the seal on so you don't chance nicking the new seal with the sharp edge of the valve,this way you can put 1 wrap of tape around the top of the valve to slide the new seal over.Thats why I use a tool to push the seal on with.

Whers the we want to see this relic in it's new glory

So it "hunts for idle" high then low? .I say spray some wd 40 at the intake and check for air leaks

Also a far easies way to check that the wood druf key is good and still in place without removing the flywheel is to set the motor at TDC thruogh the removable plugs in the cover and rotate the eng with a rod in the spark plug hole if it keep going up then it whack outa place. Or put a timing light on it and crank the eng over. Removing the fly wheel would be the last way I would check the timming for a bent key.

Gona throw this out there..if the ht cap is bad and is a resitor type then it need to be replaced. so for a few bucks 10-15 put a new ht cap and plug in it and see what that does for the spark. People forget that the resistor in the cap can and do break down, and can back load the cdi causing them to fail.it s just a capasitor in the CDI and it when told to want's to dump it's load any restriction in it's abilty to do so will effect it's abilty,, resulting in a weak spark.

Not sure if this help or not but I have seen many people put the slide for the carb in backwards= bike wont start or if it does it revs realy high. If the bike starts and runs then it kinda narrows it down to a carb issue. O hi and welcome

LOL steve have it delivered next time to the neighbour,the one your wife hates and dont talk to.But you could just tell her it was in the mess allready ,dosent look like she goes in the shed or it would have been ??? well it wouldn't look like it did HAHAHA. For example just look at Sacha's picts every time you see her bike every tool is put away,floor swept never looks like anyone has ever done any work in there,just waved a magic wand and presto it's done.

Too fn funnyhahahahah I want 1 too

Got to agree with the Drewps ( hold on here aren't you supposed to be building something? Drew How you type with working hands ) Compare your fresh hone up to this newer 1...up and down scratches will = oil burner

K so the driver you need to put the seals in is just a deep socket basicaly that fit the size of the seal ..measure the seal outer get dril bit to fit and drill the end of a smaller socket so you have a nice taper to fit on the metal part of the seal ...you might even have one in your tool box that wil fit . Then carfuly line em up push them down as far as you can then tap em down with the tool ..sockets work great for this cause you can add a extension easy.

for 30 bucks I hope your not going to cheep out and not change the valve seals

..002 can kill a good project, as tommy said best it happend now. Nice you have a back up plan You fuckers got riflles in scouts ,,,I got a dirt bike but no one would give me a gun then.

Save your old brake fluid it makes a great paint stripper.

I didn't wanb to be the first to rag you out about not keeping your chain right,but com on man it's your life VS a few drops of oil,,,,,, I /we/all now have to question what you have learned here,,,,,,,, just be thankfull your all right. Please don't let it happen again. things could have turned out a whole lot worse.