dt502001

I've had bikes that for some reason you had to lean to the left and then stand straight to get the oil to show up in the window,but as air head said just put in the right amount and don't wory to much about it.If your output shaft is leaking then fix it so you dont have wory about the level droping.

well I watched the video and it sound normal enough to me,though as soon as he turned the choke off it stalled so carb is not set up right.Also willing to bet they didnt fully inspect /clean the carb 5 min of running sitting in 1 spot and it is going to get realy hot thats normal,how hot are we talking? Get him to hit it with a non contact temp gun and check the temps of the rad and barrel and head. You didn't mention if its forcing coolant out of the expansion bottle if it is then I would be looking at head and head gasket mating surfaces for scratches/warp/crack. I've seen lots of heads with the smallest scratch between the bore and coolant jacket cause the coolant to become pressurised.Also check the rad cap to see if it can hold pressure.

Congrats good to hear you finnaly got it sorted,hopefully you learned that rushing the job just takes longer,and trying to fix something with missing parts just adds to the confusion.Happy riding Hitchy.

Not exactly sure what you asking,but clean it all up and then giver a spin,if your still getting milky oil in the exhaust and on the plug then you need to start looking at the other possibiltys of how it got there.

Ya but you forgot the go go gadget hand that swings out and slaps the driver behind you in the face to wake up and take notice. Feck its been quite around here for the last week,its been minus 30 c for the last week here average with the wind chill and I'm running outa places to put snow.ut to feed the pig on wednessday morning and couldn't see his house HAHAH had to dig it outa 4 ft of drift snow, This winter reminds me of the winters we used to get back in the 70's i'll be happy to see this one go,hows it been down your way? I got down to long point 2 weeks ago for some ice fishing and didn't look like you guys got half the snow we have,or did the lake winds just blow it all away? Normaly6 cords of wood does me a whole winter i've burnt 7 allready and still at least 8 weeks of this cold to deal with,you on propane,oil or natural gas? Feckin propane went up 107% in cost in a month ,,right now it would be cheaper to heat the house with gasoline thats just messed up . O well enough bitchin the bike is comming along nice and looks like you will have more than enough time to geter done,you just going straight boring black? or adding some style.

Oil dissapearing = crank seal. milky gear oil = water pump seal. But the eng should get hot enough to burn off the spark plug at least Does anyone know if the sleeve is pressed in or cast in ,in this motor?

I personaly belive it 's best to ballance the rim void of tire and remove mettal to ballance the rim,yam had some rims that were really bad back in the 80's out as much as a 1/2 ounce. New tire manufacturing is way better now if you get a tire thats out more than a 1/4 ounce is odd.And not a very good tire. To check the ballance of the rim make sure your bike is level left to right ,and as your putting in new wheel brngs even better, then slip the axel in and giver a spin no brake pads or calipers or speedo drive and watch where it stops and how it swings back to the heavy spot,it will always be the lowest spot, then spin it 1/2 dozen times and keep watching if it constantly stop in the same spot then it's heavy on that part of the rim,file off a bit from the inside not the contact area of the tire bead and keep doing it untill it never stops in the same spot after spining it,or has no pendlim effect. PS put your new valve stem in first.1 it makes it easier to see where the rim stops and your ballancing the rim with the weight of the stem sprocket and discs. Once you have the rim ballanced then you should never need to ballance again when changing tires,every manufacture has a different way to mark the heavy spot on the tire but most have a red,yellow ,white dot on the tire and if you put it to the valve stem your good. The only way to get it better is to use a dynamic ballancer and most bike shops still use a static ballancer and put the weight in the middle of the rim.You can tell if they have a dynamic ballancer becasue there are weights on both outer edges of the rim and not in the same spot. And every tire can be reballance after 100 miles,so say the expert that came to school from dunlop and talked for 4 hrs about tires. So best to fix the rim first and let the tire "learn" it's new home

Well giver a run and check the plug and pipe,sounds more like a cracked head ,head gasket or base gasket to me but you also have that water heated carb too right? If you getting milky oil in the exhaust and on the plug dont run it long or for sure it will go BANG.

was there really any doubt? Bet the inspector took a quick look at your front brake though.

Even bad free publicity is better than none, ya never know foams she might like the mankini.

Looks Nice laura job well done and that is what I ment by little beauty you bunch of perves. Foams if she has seen the mankini pictures your SOL for getting anything you own polished,unless she drinks minde bleach morning and night,I'm on my 3rd case and still cant forget Besides she's smart enough to see it's not your bike parts you want polished

well goth m looks better IMO,I think I would pull the 3 points more together and stop the outer 2 shorter.possibly keeping it going to the sides progressively shortening each point.But keeping with what felix did smooth rounded/curved edges progressivly comming to a point. Not to make fun of your paint job now but it reminds me of a helmet from cartoon my son watched dont remember the name and felix's rendering reminds me a bit of a spy vs spy charter. Did you grab some vinyl pin tape? All the renderings are nice to look at but if you cant lay it down in tape then you cant paint it,if you got the pin tape you'll find something you like. I also like the way felix darkend the colour towards the end point changing the darkness of the base coat will give that effect.

Hmmm hose's,scrub brushes,soap and water must be realy expensive your side then?? cause I have all at home and if my bike looked like that it would get a wash and dry. If that represents the typical bike care then no wonder why everyone has so much trouble getting bolts out. A car who cares but my bike's no way .My car /truck a hammer lots of heat and anything can come appart ,,my bike's just simply undo and remove.

Your killing me,, how can you let a brand new bike get that dirty???? My dirt bike looks cleaner

OOOHHH what about zz top type stripes to match the bars ex tend the scalops and drag them back to the front thining and then back again thinning. with a silver 3rd colour under laping Painting is my fave you get to do what ever you want

Felix can whip up a photo shop in minutes,,me NO ....I use pin striping tape to mock up what I want and get a look at it first.I have tape that is 1/8 in wide and can make circles with it then just tape up to it to block off what you dont want to paint.

Okidokei them fule taps are bad for the seal under the 2 screws holding it all to gether behind the flow selector,about 6 bucks for a new seal. They get hard and worn then when you turn the tap from 1 position to the next they rotate with the tap and block the fuel passage,it's the only part that can go bad in the tap.

Only one small problem wit coating the bolts if they get to much on you won't be able to fit the allen socket in to tighten them up without removing the coating in the center,also tape off any bolt/bearing holes, sprocket surface, you dont want to have to remove powder coating to install the new stuff. Most any good powder coater know this but make sure first. You have new chain best to replace the sprockets as well,another 45 bucks is money well spent to get max life outa the chain.And going 1 tooth down on the front will really wake the bike up for wheelies,1/4 mile times or 2-3 up on the rear.But iif your chain is only long enough to fit the stock gearing then up on the rear is not a option,and if you dont like 1 down on the front its easier to change back. I was going through some old tools and well I have 4 chain breakers so it would seem,loan one to someone and need 1 so buy 1 ,forget 1 at home and at the races so buy 1 is all I can think of why I have so many,so dont go buy one

Well you get a yea and a nay my son likes the paint job I'm not so sure,,but so glad yo fixed the center strip it was the first thing I noticed,it could use some more work to get it semictrial/even at the arches of the scalops. I would use a small round bottle to get the circle area even,,tape tank and trace the shape As felix said bring the other scalops down to the center as well leaving a tear drop of black etiher side of the center strip would look cool.. I don't know what is missing but ?? it just seems to stop too soon on the sides..or to bulky and not fade away enough. `

ya best to build oil pressuer first so pull the plugs give it a 100 cranks over then giver. You have assembly lube on the pistons but not any on the crank or bearings.

Yes but in your case you want to pull the clutch in at the same you Kill the eng

Just take your time don't rush it then make sure everything is as it suposed to be no short cuts here.If you can't get the bike to run without choke then you have a air leak some where.

K you need help sorting your carb out you don't have it set right,we have given you enough information if you cant get it set up yourself maybey it's time to hire a professional befor you blow your bike up from running it with the wrong set up.

K with the plunger up then it's on,if it will only run that way then you haven't set the carb up right. Flat slide ,round dosen't realy matter.You must have the pilot set to lean and the slide set to high. If you dont have a manual ask some one will know all of the basic settings HAHAH black got here first,is your cable sticking at all? if not then go back and reset the carb to near factory specs they are just guide lines though no 2 carbs work the same on the same bike

Have a peek at this thread page 1 she has a good picture of the carb if your has the same type of choke then down is off and up is on basicaly look at the plunger attached to the lever if it is in then choke off out choke on. While its a different bike might not hurt to just read all of her thread and see if anything might apply.