dt502001

If your just going to sell it, then I would just do what needs to be done to clean it up and be presentable with the lowest cost. So no powder coating,if the exhaust is the biggest sore point then have it coated or wrap it. A buffing pad on a bench grinder will do wonders for the aluiminiun bits and a few cans of paint can go along way.

The brake light is the only thing fed all the time so I would check the brake light wiring must be rubed through some where.

Wasn't much of a fan of the goo either untill people kept bringing me aftermarket gaskets that were paper thin crap and bound to leak,or didn't fit proprely.I don't mind making the odd gasket now and then but be damed if I am going to do a entire eng. Using the goo" the right stuff" even at 30 bucks a 1/2 tube I can build a entire eng for less than the crap gaskets and never have a leak,the trick is or where people make a mess is they put 5x too much on and it squirts out everywhere, I only put just barley enough on and unlike most goo it sets in 1 minute not 24hrs and you can make oring seals with it. You should have just run the feeler gauge under to make sure you still have clearence,no clearence = no oil = worn cam lobes then you would at least know if its safe to ride.

Nice shopping list but don't you think the ISR clutch lever is a bit over the top? I've ridden the busa many a time and like em couldn't even Immagine what one with a turbo kit would pull like with 499rwhp. What made you decide to jump from the 125's to a beaste busa?

Well than you might as well add a fake blow off valve to then LOL http://www.akamoto.co.uk/dump-valve.asp

Try and put a tea spoon of fuel right into the cylinder quickly replace the spark plug and see if it starts.

I would say you havent set the carb up right and/or your choke circut is faulty.

180 eyes hint,might car mods did a drift car outa one Jimmy.

I would have thought that you could swap it out as well but I personly dont have any experience with a dt125 cira 77. Start a thread in workshop of the conversion with lots of pictuers so if someone else needs to do it then they can follow.

And thats why I blue loctight every bolt on ever part on every thing,all's well that ends well.That could have been a wright off situation,both bike and you. Did you check the valve clearence while you had the VC off? PS: throw that orange silicon out and buy some ultra black or "right stuff" both made by permatex,looks and seals 10x better than that orange crap and if you had used the "right stuff' it would have not fallen off that stuff not only seals but glues parts together.Yamabond or Three bond 1104 works well too but grey.

I 'll check back on this thread in 9 more months and see how your making out

Pass the tissues LOL welcome on

Sorry I cant help with any parts But why not give REX speed shop a try thats something up his ally

Did you consulte with the boy's from the Yard's SIU on that jimmy,after all It's a" Mysterious fluid" might need to be run through the lab for identification..

Hi and welcome to the mad house.

Yep a yam gt 80 I'd say 1976-7 whats the frame numbers? from the steering head.

That makes sence would be a bugger to try and get that mess out/ fixed.Thats part of the reason I havent tried it yet I dont have personaly a dented tank and seems everyone that has come my way has allready been coated. I was just going to use the gas cap and plug the vent with tape,I woulkd think 10-15 psi would be enough pressure,and a steel air stem on a flat plate for the pressure side. The bike is looking good, weather permitting next week might head up to ryans new place and then we can ride back to your place and see this creation ourself's.The Ice rink In the lane way is almost melted fingers crossed it don't _______ again.I wont even say the word let alone type it.LOL

Going 40mph 0r 100mph and something lock's up a wheel or the brakes suddenly fail...well the result is not much different.. My motto to a safe ride is ,,,wash check anything that spins,rotates,or floats (save the actual floats) or bolted on every month or 1500 kms on a road bike and every ride on a off road bike. I actualy wash my bike quick after every ride(not just a quick 1-3hr ride but a RIDE) but that is not needed,I just hate to see my bike dirty. It will save you money in the long run cause you will catch things before they wear prematurly for lack of lube/adjustment/retighting. Once you get into the habbit of lubing /checking/thighting/adjusting/cleaning..then you will rarley ever have anything break or need recovery. Some say a watched pot never boils ,but then again it never makes a mess,like a unattended one. Good luck and here's to a biking trouble free year Thw sr is a great learning bike so when you get a big bike and everything wears 4x as fast you will know how to and when to.

Did you check out any of the vid's?

Welcome ,,better fit a small tool box/bag to the bike so the dip shits dont get the chance to wreck your bike over a small fix again.

In a nut shell drewps NO,however the kenettic energy released would be greater with every little droplet of fuel you can get in. Provided it has enough time to burn Compression ratio is dictated by a formula http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html the source The short story. Displacement = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Stroke x 16.387 Head Gasket space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Gasket thickness x 16.387064 Deck Height space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Deck Height x 16.387064 Compressed Volume = Head Gasket space + Deck Height space + Piston Top volume + Combustion chamber volume Uncompressed Volume = Compressed Volume + Displacement Compression Ratio = Uncompressed volume ÷ Compressed volume Thats why a good engine builder will measure the cc's of each head pocket on a multi cylinder eng and match them all.

Yep quite common that the leeds are bonded into the coil and not removable,though I would doubt this is you hard starting problem.Bad leeds would cause problem when wet damp misfires mainly.

To increase the compression you would have to increase the volumemetric efficency as well,is the carb bigger than stock? What about splitting the difference and put in a 100 main jet or retard the timming closer to tdc. Ie if you have it at 4degrees btdc knock it back to 3 untill the motor is full broken in All in all though it's solid mount engine so I would think that you will always have some vibrations,unless you can bore out the mountin bosses on the motor and stuff in some rubber mounts,But as this is just a get around type of bike ,not like your going to drive it 200 miles in a day on the freeway for hours on end is it realy that bad?

OOps missed this last bit,it not uncommon for the stationary brake pad to wear a little less than the piston side,mainly when thing dont move smoothly. I know with all the little ones money is alwasys tight but fitting new pads will keep everything wearing even,think about it if the pads are worn uneven then the caliper has to work on a angle that it's not suposed to ,,the only way the caliper can work at a 90 degree is for the pads to sit parrel to the disc.Thye only part that can shift is the caliper to accomedate for un even wear in the pads.

Honestly what is a good price drewps?,we never got them here but I would think about 800 canadian would be fair,and this one looks pretty good. So him paying 530Uk I would think he got a good deal,bike looks clean and solid to me,but it's a picture so hard to say exactly how good it is.