dt502001

Neat to see old stuff like that,not going to go into your local nut and bolt supplier and pick up a con rod nut for that are you LOL What was it used for orignaly?

Doubt he would have got 108 miles on it with the slides in backwards,i'd say ______ seal LH

Solid little bikes good for beginers and shorter people woefully under powered though for a 230

No they wont fit cable ends will be different ,,but if you want them for your bike they do make some just go to thier web site and find them for your bike they make them for just about every bike ever made.

Welcome aboard,nice clean example of how a bike should look even if it is 17 yrs old.

Shit like that shouldn't happen but it does,you give them year make model they look up part ,,,ship part ,,simple NOOOOOO. Unless your bought a barnett clutch they use 1 extra steel and fiber all thinner of course.

Rotate the pressure plate 1 hole you have installed it wrong. If the ball were missing then it would be engauged all the time.

Hi

check the grounds ( earths) and put a test light to the feed side of the ig sw ,and then see if you have power comming out to the different parts

FN SMIDSY 's ...... nice bike you have there,stock pipes would be more expencive so if it cant be determined what they are then the ins co would have to base cost of replacement on stock. I thouhgt they looked more like Vance & hines pipes,but this is more up Noises ally As far as the name on the tank, I doubt the dolt who hit you bothered to notice I like it

He builds them anyway you want forks http://forking-by-frank.com/

True I can see why you would be reluctant if they wont guarantee it, option 2 is to get one from this side as most bike's dont see any where near the mileage. Nothing to see bike with only 10- 25k kms on them in the wreckers here,, short seasons of riding and people forget how to ride and crack em up My buddy own's Sonic Cycle Salvage in London Ont he normaly writes the milage on things like that. I know it's still 30 yrs old but he keeps everything inside in dry storage. If you want I can ask around. Last year I could have got one off a bike for free,the bike had been sitting in a shed for ??? umteen years and nobody wanted it,, got sent to the recycle yard. I will definatly keep my eyes open and if I see one sitting in a barn or field pull one off for you. I just didn't know anyone who would want old parts like that till I joined the YOC,this side not much intrest in old bikes like yours. After seeing what Drewps did with his 400 I started looking around to build a tracker and well still looking.

The problem i have encountered with attempting repairs to cid is they need to be dissasembled to test each resistor,diode ect seperatly,when they are tested in place the values dont come out right and then thiers the main chip what are you going to do if its scrap, write a whole new program for one. I know that 600 is quite steep for a 30 yr old bike but if your keeping the bike for another 30 yrs then not so bad? I would think that there arn't a whole lot of new ones to be had and in the future even less.Buying a used one for 50 every couple of years will surely add up to 600 at least with a new one you should get 10yrs trouble free possibly 30.

Think about that for a min Noise what about the seals in the lower leg? The tollerence there must be maintained much closer than the yokes. When are you going to post some picts Jinx?

Ya that is one bike that you have to say when to stop on it,esp if the owner is not going to keep it up . Looking better though.

LOL just wondering what do you feed your CDI's on that side of the pond,other than salt on a dialy basis,,,we dont have that many problems with them...Honestly I have seen them go for 25 + yrs. Are you sure you just didn't need to clean the terminals? Sealed units dont let alot of crap in???? EDIT: seriuosly my old 1981 gs 1100 is still running on the original CDI I sold it back in 2000 I wonder now if Drewp's hasn't been chasing his tailo over bad TCI unit yam didn't use them for many years??????

Nope the PV only help bottem/mid end power if you set it right by letting it go through the cleaning cycle and lined it up then thats what you get,the difference is now the bike is pulling clean through the rev range,instead of being a dog till it hits the right revs to come on like a light switch. Do a timed distance run over a set length and you will see your bike is quicker with the PV.

Most mods only shorten the life of the eng. but a good cleaning of any flashing in the intake and exhaust,shave the head to bump compression, reseating the valves is a fairly safe and cheap way to get a small hp increase. If it has a spring type of mechanical advance for the ignition you can play with different spring tension to speed the advance or slow. Slotting the cam sprocket so you can alter the cam timming. lighting the piston by removing material from the inside or shorting the length,indexing the spark plug so that the open part of the electrode is facing the intake valve ( shims required). Change the length of the intake short for quick high reving eng's and long for low rev torquey motors,pollishing the intake and bore of the carb. 2t's stuffing the crank case with cork and altering port heights/timming has been played with to the point nobody has a1 rule that works for all But most mods you loose something to gain something so first you need to know where you want the eng to work better,like are you going to be on a track where it will be at red line most of the time or a short track where you will need alot of bottem end torque to get out of corners. The easiets way to get 2-3 hp is to run true race fuel expensive but if your not using it for transportation not that bad here about 2x the cost of pump,just dont leave it in the carb ,only put in what you will use and drain every time what you dont use and store in the steel container. Or for some real fun add NoX and watch parts melt,grenade when you throw a 15 hp shot of NoX on a 125 windage trays in the sump,scrapers to keep oil from flinging around,knifeing the crank to get it to cut through the oil easier.Shot peening and pollishing the rods to harden,lighting the stator to get it to rev quicker or making it heavier for more torque in the bottom rev range all this stuff is for building a motor to work better in a single application.

Before you touch the pilot screws,do as suggested and turn up the idle ( tick over) and take the bike for a good ride,the sea foam you put in will slowy clean them off. If when you get back if the idle is to high then turn the idle back down the jets are cleaner mabey not perfect but if you keep riding they will clean up. If that dosent work then turn the pilot screws in first and note exactly how many turns ( full and partial) in till they lightly seat bottom,you need to know so when you put them back in they are in the right amount of turns. Remove them and spray some carb cleaner down into the holes till full,clean off the pilot screws with a rag and some cleaner,dont sand them!, and replace after a hour or so to let the carb cleaner do it's thing.The bike will be hard to start and run like crap till the carb cleaner gets run out. Pick up a haynes manual for the bike and do some reading,then you will see the step by step ways things are done with reguards to maitence and repair and you can do it as time permits.Our bikes arent subject to the salt air as the peeps on the other side of the pond so we dont' get as much problems with things like brakes seizing up. Have fun learning and we are alwasy a click away for help.

Much better but be warned you better have a bit of a warped sence of hummor to hang around us bunch

NO he shouldn't but if the dealer is just givin him the shove off ,might as well see if he can figuer it out, then go back and tell em what a bunch of________ they are. If opening the gas cap solves it then he needs a new cap simple enough to do,yes a PITA but why not try? When I had to take my bike in for the maditory 1st 500.00 oil change they put the wrong filter on.That was a battel I won,drycleaning bills complete refund, 10k extended warenty,voucher for a free service ( that I threw in the garbage wouldn't let anyone there work on my bike) and after a few more complaints to suzui CA they lost thier dealership.

Get it in writing that way if it gets worse then your covered under warenty that it been a on going problem from day 1 and you have not neglected to have it repaired. Steelers tend to do more to resolve issues when people start asking for things in writing that are BS. Photo copy and send to Yamaha UK with a letter. When I worked for VW years ago we had a TDI that was back ever 3 months for about 2 years after every possible thing was changed that could possibly be changed, they approved a new eng and problem solved. That said check the oil level and adjust it so it's not over full as it most likely is,you can suck out some from the filler hole with a hose.And pop the gas cap open when you stop see if it stops the fuel dripping.

I rode my rz everywhere,but they are not comfortable,well not by touring standards anyway, and they dont like to cruse at one speed ,it loads up the eng tending to foul plugs. As with any 2t they like to be reved out/cleaned out Even with the rubber mounting you probably wont want to be in the saddel for much more than 200kms at a time anyway the vibrations will have part's of your body going numb. But if your just asking can the motor take it yep no problem,you will just be doing top end rebuilds more often, I cant remember what the service interval is but 10k kms or 5k miles is a good time to freshen the top end with new rings at least.

There is a vin decoder site for yamahas but I cant rember it,but it dosent matter with the pw they are all the same noting changed but the body colours any year part will fit any other year.

We are slowly seeing a shift to 2 wheels here,mainly among younger drivers.I think it has alot to do with the cost of insurance and you can get a new 125 for less than a craped out old car. Of the people I have takled to this summer about half of them are either new or getting back into 2 wheels again because of the price of gas. Funny because back in 1988 when I had to wright my business plan for motorcycle mechanics I used more or less this same argument and got a A+ only one I ever got in any schooling I think LOL