dt502001

Sorry I am realy busy today.. but yes I think you should be looking at the fuel end of things. Mostly the air flow circuts of the carbs me thinke you have some junk in thiere. But it should be dry after running the bike if you can get the plug out qulckly try it again with the vac line pluged and see if it come out dry on 3 .

What are your compression readings. They need to be over 125 psi and not varry by more that 10%. After running is the cyl still looking wet.

First clear the fuel from cyl3 by pulling out all the plugs and crank the eng over. and making sure you have good spark on #3 and remove the vacume line to the fuel tap to stop any more fuel getting to the carbs. then try and run the bike with the vacume line pluged the bike should run and fire on all cylinders ,if it does then hook up the vacume line if the problem comes back you need to clean the carbs sounds like the float is stuck in carb #3 over fueling the cylinder and fouling out the plug.

Yo Adam keep up with the school it will take you far in life, to bad about the bike but just post in workshop if you need help

O ps SOS pads work great to clean up the spokes and then wax pain in the ass but works to stop the rust. Or have the hubby clear the rim/spokes won't look great in a few years but could keep the cost down for now. And save few more bucks for the eng rebuild.

After removing the tires Its easy to check run out if you have a dial indicator or access to one. Just fix the wheel in a solid position with the axel as the rotating piont so it cant move any way but around in a circle and put the dial indicator against the rim at the outer edge and slowly rotate watching the dial. Then to the top of the rim. But the realy easy way is just spin and watch with your eyes if they look good ,no up down or side to side, and tap the spokes if you get a thud instead of a sort of ting then it might be loose, but every spoke sounds slightly different never all the same. Tap and wiggle them if they feeel tight then all is good. You will find some rust on the inside as the spokes let water in so a good wire brushing should clean it all up then a good coat of paint to stop the rust, I'm sure the hubby can suggest something he can get from work free left over from another job or rubberised undercoating. I like to put a thin coat of grease on the Nippels before installing the rubber band that protects the tube from the spoke nippels(lol I keep saying Nippels LMFAO). As far as respokeing yourself probably not the best idea unless you have TONS of paicents as the spokes are different sizes and go in different directions. I can do it but not if anyone is watching or wants it done fast as thats impossible for me. I have spent a whole day just trueing a wheel only to start over because I got the off set wrong. And so may companys sell a pair of whole rims with hubs, tires, brake rotors and sprockets for 1200.00 after you add up all the cost of parts it's just not worth the hassel.

Motor first or frame first doesn't realy matter I just do one or the other to keep the parts from piling up all over the place. It's always nice to see 1 part of the project done helps keep the motivation up. As well your hubby can get the paint on quick and in a nice down draft booth. So you will have something prety to look at while doing the motor. Are you striping the wheels and respokeing them ? they looked prety good in the pics. Wow what a ripoff As Sacha noted new from forking by frank is only 50 bucks more and his forks are good quality.

Yep nice intro and not 1 bit about it's broken great .

Did you loose the o ring on the pipe that feeds coolant into the motor? or nick it on reassembly? that most likely the cause of coolant in the gear box. Dump out the oil and see how much coolant is mixed in before you dammage bearings. Pull the cover and check the oring bet its riped /missing . If not pop in a new w/p seal and new o ring

I agree Campaman 16 yr olds driving 300+hp cars is just plane scary not that you guys over there have as many,but here its kinda the norm. Kid gets licence buys v8 or turbo v6 it's not hard to find a mustang for $3000.00 that has well over 350hp and will do 140 mph And they have a sterio that you can hear them long befor you see them ....in dash dvd player nav system psp player so much stuff to do BUT PAY ATTENTION TO THE ROAD. Cage drivers are so careless because they are surounded in saftey featuers 10 air bags seatbelts crumpel zones anti lock brakes,lane change warining, you don't have to parrell park just press a button, check your tire pressuer Nope the puter tells you. Most have gotten so lazy/careless about actualy driveing the car, that different brands now offer driver assist so if they get to close to another car the car actualy puts the brakes on for them. and working on cars that drive themselfs. Which might just be safer. But it's gotten to the point that people relie on all the saftey featuers and not good driving skills. I cant tell you how many young drivers who have asked to have the brakes inspected after the abs has gone off because they were going to fast in poor weather. They learn how to drive on simulators ( play station ,x box) and just hit reset when they crash,they just don't understand the responsibilty of driving safely. In my 29 years of driving I have seen it all from people reading the paper to a guy getting a BJ,collected many mirrors, been forced off the road even after kicking the car to try and get the dolts attention. And it's getting worse every year. I have lived in the country for 8yrs and when ever I have to go into the city I put my spidy sences on full allert and assume every idiot is going to cut me off. I was taught that if you can't see the tires on the road of the car infront of you your to close,now if you leave that space some idot will cut in. But I still do it anyway because at the end of the day the only one watching out for me is me and I just want to get home alive and enjoy a cold beer.

I use Mothers California Gold pure carnauba 3 step wax system setp 1 is a cleaner to remove old wax step 2 is the wax 3 is a glaze makes your paint look deeper and the best wax i have ever found. I wax everything handelbars wheels frame eng ect save for the brake discs and the seat. Meguires metal restor to polish up the shiney metal bits. then just the wax. I think 160 for the chrome is a good price well at least its 1/2 of buying new. at this rate you should have the bike back rolling in no time. Have you started on the motor?

If the fender had ever been coated with tremclad silver or aluminum it will need to be striped to bear mettal.Tremclad and a few other brands of paint no matter how well sanded and primed will reeact, if it went all aligator skin like then it's been painted with Tremclad. I painted a frame 1 time with it and then a couple of years later wanted to paint it black what a fn mess just glad I had lots of thinner to whipe off the black before it hardened. I had to sand blast the frame and even in some spots the black still reacted with the first coat. as for the tank as long as you can get the rust out no real need to seal it unless it leaks,fill it with gas and leave it for a day or 2 and see if it has any pin holes it should lift the primer or bubble it , better to have to re prime it than repaint. I don't like clear coat on forks it goes yellow get chiped/scratched imo wax is the best protection and the easiest to keep the polish up once they are cleaned up dosen't take much effort to repolish them every year.

Ok try this take a file and champher the edges of the pads 15 degrees 2mm the 90 deg edge causes alot of vibration that turns into SQUEEK also apply brake grease to the shims and anti rattel plates and the piston contact area. also wher the caliper mounting bracket attaches to the swing arm NOTE BRAKE GREASE not just any old grease you have..... . or your running to hard of pads and they are glazing up sand them down with some 180 grit on a flat surface, sand paper taped to glass works well. Might want to try some EBC green pads organic compound, most don't know that pads come in a wide range of compounds some last for ever but realy don't work that well others work fantastic but dont last long. Factory pads are the worst for noise. The ones some dim wit sprayed with wd 40( my friend did that when we were 9yrs old LOL) can be cleaned up with isopropanol alcohol 99% sand down first lightly and then just clean them with the alc. dry and good to go if you still have them. Also you need to look and see if the pads are wearing evenly front to back ..top to bottom you may be running your back wheel out of alingment measure from the swing arm piviot to the rear axel and make sure everything is the same.

In Canada and the USA the bikes were called IT not mx but the same bike. So if you want a new coil for stock buy it now while you can. I had a 1981 it 175 sold it though as the bike had never been regesterd for the road by the dealer and back then the only way you could regester was when the bike was brand new the dealer could do it,but the original owner choes not to. I realy liked that bike.. As Paul pointed out the pin will never fall out so no worries there

as well as the choke... is the float height set to low might wan't to raize it a bit ,did you check the floats to make sure they float? If the plug keeps getting wet it has to be getting to much fuel drying with a torch works much better. The oil is only for the gear box so shouldn't be affecting anything to do with starting/running .

You were reading how to change the pads on a dirt bike ,on yours you remove the rear wheel to remove the caliper.you will need to buy a whole new hanger bracket. Next time just pull the 2 pins holdin the pads in and push the piston back it's a 5 min job to change out pads on that bike

Now thats one great idea a bit expensive but no reason it shouldn't work. that said hmmm a copper pipe would look nice sob to keep clean but nice

I'm sorry i didn't check you progress sooner and the tank is probaly paited now I would have sugested to put drywall screws it the tank and put its on a bbq rotisary over night before sealing it's the best way I have found to get all the rust out.Make sur you cas cap has a realy good seal otherwise gas will get under the paint and lift it.If yours is buggered find one from a car cap thats the only way I have found to replace the seal as yam doesn't sell them seperatly and want a lot for new cap if they still have them. cant wait to see the paint job bet it will look better than new The fork lowers I would not paint them as noted befor just sand them up and polish and a good waxing I do all mine that way once a year is all it realy takes to get them looking like new or if you want you can get a buffing pad to fit on a bench grinder or drill and compound and polish them up like a mirror i did my swing arm and all the removable eng covers on my WR last winter and I just use auto solve to keep them up

Bending stainless is hard without the expensive equiptment as it likes to crack my neighbour has a hydrulac mandrel bender and even then some pieces end up in the scrap bin. The realy tight bend you will want at the front will be a nightmare best to leave it to a pro pipe bender . Option #2 buying the prebent piece and have the straighter section bent the way you want it Then take it to the best tig welder you know then file and sand it out then brush it with a wire wheel, my buddy does it that way and his pipes look great. If the customer doesn't want to pay the extra for removing the welds he sells them that way and realy they don't look bad as his tig welds are so nice. Post some picts of the pipe when done in projects if you can i'd like to see it

+1 on all of the above...... tire size is like haven a big dick but no Idea how to use it. Good tires and confidence in them is the key. Rule #1 though cold tires = less traction hot/warm tires = best traction ..so take it easy for the first few miles every ride till they come up in temp.

Great to hear the bike is more or less ready to go and you have a couple of days to sort it out. personaly I would go with a needle adjust first and or1/2 turn on the piolt sounds like you have it realy close now... if by toast medium you mean ..if you mean like my ex made it black burnt and not fit for a dog LOL then lean it up JUST kidding Did you try what I call a plug chop test.. run the bike at full throttle hiest rpm grab the clutch and kill the eng at the same time pull ove and look at the plug.. thats the best way to read a plug for wfo running. After a short low rpm ride the plug can lie to you looks great but only down low in the rpm range Anyway sounds like your going to make squires have a great time guys

Ok as you said not so good with wrenches oops spaners..... so take alot of pictuers as you go removing the old motor. it will help sooooooo much .......another tip I can give you is to get a big piece of cardboard and put the bolts in as they correspond to where they came out from (punch holes in the board to fit bolts) then if you have to leave and come back to the job you don't have to relie on memory. Paper Tape and # wires both side of any plug ..so you can fit them back easly. This is how I taught my son and he is a wiz at striping and reassembling a bike now . AND #1 rule don't force it back together if it won't go have another look. Taping is OK.... Smashing breaks things good luck with the swap

40-50 mpg is the best you can get out of the bike driving lightly on the throttle... gas it hard a couple of times during a tank full and that can drop down to 30 mpg add your weight + extra gas + what ever else you carring+ milage on the bike ( lower compresssion than new) and it gets worse. 28 is not to far off for a 1987 with high miles a 240 lb rider +++ might get a we bit better with 93 octain but not likely

Go to new members post a intro hobbies your sister is hot single... what ever........ then repost this in workshop and put in details like cable tight or not. then maybe we can help....... but not just it's not working

Cynic The only reason i said 20 was just a rough # the older it gets the more it will cost to try and find 1 or fix it inflation of the dollar /wages so it stands to reason it will be worth more. Even if it seized the barrels could be bored out and new pistons seals ect still wont run much over 600.00 and if the crank needs fixing that wont run much over 200.00 with new bearings,,, tires 250.00,, other bits and pieces I think it could be done for less that 2000.00.for a nice running bike.Concours whole different story. But it would be a fun project and way better to see another bike restored than broken down only so many left. Didn't someone post somthing about the 125 still being made in Pacastan might make finding parts like rims and fenders easy? If they prove hard to find in the USA.