dt502001

LOL welcome I see you've been miss lead 2 is just the start As you read on around here you will notice most here have at least 2 running bikes and something in the works.

I worked in a tire shop years ago and seen first hand what they do to the inside of a tire,wear from the inside is not a good thing you cant see it , they break down the tire. I would stay clear for bike use.

I hear that oil is good for the coat,helps keep it shiney

yep bikes are way more fun when you get you full lic and get on a 100+ hp bike the car will be so slow it will bore you.

Take your phone out and tell them you are recording the conversation then take a pic of them and the cruser make sure you time date stamp is on.If it's the same dick ,not sure about the laws there but here 3x is harrasment and the cop would be suspended. I know because I had the same problem and the cop did get suspended after I filed a complaint. I got fired from the job( for being late 3 day in a row and had no fine to prove to my boss why) I had at the time.So I payed a lawyer 50 bucks to wright a letter to the cops threatened to sue the cops if I was harrased ever again. I also contacted my local member of parlament and he fowared a letter to the local cops, after that I didn't get pulled over for years. Now if I do get pulled over I get the cops badge # before I hand over my ID, and have been informed that I am on the don't harrase list still to this day 25 yrs later. Don't put up with it take action

Thats fairly good and within 10% 140psi would be like new below 100 time for a rebuild. setting the float at 26mm would alow more fuel in the bowl compared to 28mm ,,,30mm would be less fuel. The whole thing sounds more electrical than fuel check the pick up coil resistance right after it dies and the coil.

Drill it out if you don't care about it.run a small bit in to knock the gates loose then it will turn to release the tumbler. Or u tube "bump key" and make one not hard.

I totaly agree Cynic a slightly loose chain is better than a over tight one. You never know when someone needs a lift and throwing a extra 125-200lbs on a chain thats ot tight will over load the tranny/wheel bearings. When you compare how loose I run the chain on the wr to the bandit one would think it would fall off ,but with the massive travel the wr goes through comming off a jump 30'ft high and landing fully compressing the suspension it has to be run that loose. Not sure what you mean by" warped" Grouch ,But a 60 dollar chain is just that a decent oring or x ring chain DID ,RK,izumi will run 100.00+ . I know everyone will argue this but,if the sprockets are ok just spin on another cheap chain to get you through to march save the cost of changing the sprockets and labour And keep it well lubed. Doing gearing changes for different tracks I use the same chain on different sprockets all the time.

Try clearing the fuel from the exhaust by shutting of the gas,pull the plug and crank it over. Then a new plug and only turn the gas on long enough to fill the carb and see if it will start and run untill out of gas. sounds like dirty carb flooding the motor.possibly float stuck Piston arrow to exhaust=right

Petcock nfg, the stator is dry no oil in that side.

Dave try fitting the carb with the bowl off and hold the float up by hand.......... and see if it actualy stop the flow of gas in prime position...... the needle seat in the carb could be crap. And the excess fule in the line is causing the over flow Also does the tank have rust? And have you tryed to float the "floats in gas to see if they actualy float?

It's clean but what is it with every bike havin Monster stickers theses days?

Wiesco pistons are the choice around here,but require more clearence in most cases. Best to hone to spec if fitting a wiesco and triple check the ring end gap.Most are spot on but seen a few that were wrong.

Gearing can help but you will sacrifice top end speed,if your just running about town then drop 1 tooth on the front sprocket. But if your over 150lbs no 125 will have any bottomend power so to speak.

No way I want to try that tennis ball part let alone the kick,,,,,hell mine can be sore just after a good night with the glory hole

????? 6 months is a short time unless you put on 20k miles. Biger cc bikes willeat chains faster because of the more hp/torque.But with the 125'shp you should be able to get at least 10k out of the chain. You must be adjusting to tight/miss alingment or not oiling properly /often enough if your not getting 10k.+. Are you using the axel blocks to center your rear wheel? If so stop they are crap! ....use a tapemeasure and ckeck from the swing axel to rear axel center.Also ru oiling the chain when cold or hot should be done hot tight spots are cause by thoes links not getting oiled. As a rule of thumb you should be running 1 chain for ever 3 rear of tires.

Why did I look Thats just wrong I am not sure what to thing about it or I think I'll just get drunk and completely forget I ever seen that.

Have a look at the hose and see if it swells up under pressure as well as new fluid and bleeding as suggested.If some oil or other crap got on the pads that can cause them to be glazed sometimes a quick sanding to deglaze them works.

Thats neat would make touch up's breazeasy

It's notjust pour in the right amount it's a max min level depending on your weight. As well their is a complete procedure for removing the air to obtain the measurment do it wrong and you start allover. I have the factory shop manual and the spec is "01"oil.... oil level euro130mm,, 140mm USA CANADA 5.12 in +-3.15~5.91 fork compressed with spring guide installed compressed measured from the top of the tube with the damper rod compressed no spring. Now is the part where a suspension shop come in they can set it up better for your weight as you can fill it from 3.15 to 5.91 depending on your weight. Tomuch oil for your weight and blown seals again not enough and you bend your damping rod or crush the valving.$$$$$$$ To remove the air you have to stroke the damper rod 10x after filling the tube then re fill,then stroke the outer tube but do not exceed a stroke of 7.9in or this will cause air to be traped and you start over. Wait 10min and take your measurment Next ;the damper rod must be adjusted to min of 20mm,0.79 in locknut to top of rod again this setting depends on your weight and how fast or slow you like the damping what type of track your riding. I will fix anything on any bike but when it comes to suspension on my wr that I leave to the pros. at protech suspension.

Looks great .........and what a great way to skip finnishing the body down smooth...How do you do it?

I'M Not sure what you mean by feel can you be more specfic. ie soft brake peddel,poor operation?

You will have to split the main cases to change the bearings,trany removed.

Welcome aboard you could go pre mix with a full synthetic oil some can be mixed out to 100:1 also shimming the pump to stroke less will make it smoke less.

It's not uncommon on the wr and yz to see both seals shot from jumping and mogul bashing,as Sacha pointed out the bike could have been tied down too tight,also as you just bought the bike you don't know how long they have been bad possibly the last owner rode it with 1 bad for awhile. Changing the seals is a straigt foward job ,but the oil level and vis is very important both are adjusted to rider weight and this is where a suspension shop is worth the visit. Anyone can change out the seals and put oil back in but to get the max out of the suspension have it done buy a suspension shop NOT just any shop. The valving is very tempermental and need to be serviced with care any crap gets in and it's pucked.