dt502001

Try puttin lots of oil on it and drive it back in and then back out, working it back and forth will free it up eventualy.Probably need a long punch to drive it out once flush with the frame.

Check the FAQ under the new members section there is info about posting picts.

Check the grounds/it's definatly a wireing problem. If you want any more help from the other members you best post a proper intro in new members

Welcome fellow mudder

Go ask your neighbour if you can borrow a wrench to take the pulg out. I fail to understand how you think you can guess your way into fixing this without tools. You should have taken the given advice and pulled the plug out days ago,now you have no choice you need to determin if you have spark,compression and you can 't do either without taking out the plug.

I'm "elfdong wellhung"wtf is that?

Generaly speaking a lean mix will be more powerfull,as blackhat suggested the PV might be stuck open? have you pulled the plug to check the colour yet?

If this help or not ? but the seca 400, 550 were both sold here and lots of parts for them in the wreckers and the front wheel from a seca 400 fits in a ypvs 350 1983 front end,so I can't see why the rz front end wouldn't fit, might have shorter top tubes?

Turkey smell all thruogh the house,half a bottle of whiskey gone, if that bird don't cook faster I'm gona eat it raw the smell is driving me . MERRY HOHOHO all

first check you have spark,if you can turn the motor over by putting it in 5thgear and rotate the rear wheel. If you have spark put a tea spoon of gas in the cylinder

Yes it could be running lean and that will cause seizeur,best to check the plug colour as suggested.If its white best to move the neddle up untill you get some new jets and take it easy.No need to fry a piston for for the sake of a few pennys to buy bigger jets. I'm not sure on what years but some years came with as low as a 210 main stock. Best to pop open the bowl and look but the 250-260 is the right set up from all the other threads I have read about re jetting for a pipe on that bike. Merry x mass

Hmmm seems you need a petition to stop uneducated,mentaly unstable,winey cunts from starting petitions.At lest they have no signatuers to get anywhere. I wonder if Mike Hunt knows that detriot deisels are 2 strokes?Or that a 2t produces the lowest NOX ,which is the most harmfull emmision? TWAT

yes @ 30 seconds

After looking at cp's site realy makes me think about finding another rz and trying a 600 cc,the rz 500 only made @ 85 hp and it was a weapon in it's day. aa 600cc sholud be able to top that. Any rough Hp figuers for your build?What rods are you using? and what if anything have you done with the crank to beef it up.? My rz was .040 over toomy pipes and intake and it would top 135 mph I can only imagine what a 485cc would be like. I see that billet are cases now available for building up on,but i didn't find any cranks yet any leeds on one?

LOl you should have seen what I wrote before the moderator cleaned it up for family viewing

Old farts like me use the phone to lazy to look at different sites for the wrong part,sides I was ordering parts.

Ok yamaha list it as 2 parts 1 for the lense and i for the bracket both no longer avaible and no superceed # but here are the part #'s from my yam dealer Lens # 1m1-84510-60-00 bracket 38k-21685-00-00 5min on the phone done!

The motor and wheels make it worth it alone if the body work is in tact then even more $$$$$$$$$ Parts for them are dear

It's going to cost a bit more than a jap bike to fix but i would grab that ASAP,part it out if for nothing else $$$$$$,but I think when you see the sexy lines you will fall in love and fix it.

A little push to get going never hurts,keeps one motivadted. Tight seals ,nice new top end,good bottom end,nice fitting rod/pistion to slide in a perfect fit,in your fresh bore,polish the case ... wherre was i going with this? Should be nice

Yo grouch go for it I have been making my own beer for years it's not hard at all,and time wise it takes about 2hrs to make up the beer and bottle it.Cost wise it cost 1/6 of buying it from the beer store. I use a pre made mix kit 1) pour it in a bucket 5 gallon 2)add 23lt water mixed with 1 kg of suggar at 23'c 3) add yeast package( comes in kit), 4)wait 7-10 days untill it stops bubling transfer to clean bucket leaving the sediment behind, add 1kg more suggar ,bottle,wait 14 days drink. I make a batch every 2 weeks of 46 lts so I have 2 on the go all the time. Once your 2nd batch is bottled you will be drinking you first batch and so goes the cycle.Make ,drink, make ,drink ,make,drink,drink drink,drink

Have them do the cranks seals as well,they don't need to split the cases to change them.But the age of them I would be woried about them leaking and wrecking your new top end. At least your making headway and spring is a few months anyway lots of time to finnish it before then.

The little screw and lock nut on the back of the horn is for adjusting the tone.

Take a hack saw and cut a new slot in the screw,even if you have to cut into the carb your not going deep enough to hurt anything. Then warm it up before you try to remove it.