dt502001

Well save yourself a few $$$ next tire and buy the 90,probably not much difference in price but why pay for what you don't need and slowing your bike down every ounce counts esp on a 125. If you mainly drive on pavment it's not going to last very long anyway,and you will never burn up the sides. Let us know what milage you get out of it I'd be suprised if you get 2000 I run a 100-100-19 on my wr250 and it hooks up just fine everywhere,but it a heavier bike with more power, the center it's 1/2 worn and the side's are still good save for a few riped/chunked knobs. I had a 110 on that a pro gave me (lucky bastered gets free tires and only runs them 1 race) but I hated it couldn't belive how shity my bike hooked up and made the bike turn in slower,at first I thought it was all in my mind,put a 100 back on and bang bike was back to normal. Keep the report going

What type of oil and what grade?

Blackhat Hosed is when they take you to the cleaners,it's canadian EH! hoser. um thats not to bad a price I guess forom what other's guessed,but I can see a huge difference in prices from here to overthere,not so much parts but I'm wondering how much labour they charged to tell you it's a bad battery.? But still a week to do that little work is rediclus Hopefully you will need a new tire before your mto will make the spoke replacment easier. better get a set of tire irons. And find someone close to show you how to change a tire. It's a job that def goes easier with 2 people And Slice with my first estimate of 380.00 I guess I get the smart ass know it all award,should have played the lottery then i would have won somthing with a lucky guess number.

Umm what size rear tire did you fit 110-100-19? it looks way to big a 90-100-19 or 18 if that the rim size would work way better,nobody runs anything bigger at the track on a 125 the 110's are for 450's. Just compare the weight diff in the 2 and you will see why your over taxing the motor and the bike dosen't wiegh enough to push a big tire into the ground,belive it or not a 90 will give you more traction and make the bike quicker out of corners as the eng can rev up quicker as for wet grass the only solution I have found is to steer it in with the back end flat track style,wet grass and ice just about the same nothing to dig into

mabey a silly ? but did you flush out all the old befor refilling..if you refilled to spec out of the book ie 800mm and there was fliud still left in mabey over full now. I would try and lower the level a bit and see if it stops,also spay some brake cleaner in the vent to free it up and on the tire to get the oil off the tire ,scary thoughts of 80w on side of a tire.

It can be done with the oil pan installed( have someone hold a vac to catch/pull the metal out and drill slowly,to bad your way over there, but realy if you can drill a straight hole then it's not that hard,the tap and all come in a kit. Check out some U tube vid's and get a look for yourself how it's done. O and if that shop dosen't doo anysort of heli coil replacement I would find a better shop to deal with for future repairs.They are obivisouly not well equipted or educated. LOL equipted ..the pain killers at work I will shut up now.

NP let it have 3-4 mmm free play at the lever the gap between the lever and the perch might fixer right up

Yep slipin clutch or not enough slack in the cable, should have a little free play at the lever

Not quite sure how one would find themself in that way but me thinks it had something to do with a husband commin home earlier than expected

O almost forgot you can come clean my shop any day I never seen such a clean tidy bench in years around here. I don't even bother puttin away some tools as they never stay put away for long 8mm10mm 12mm14mm 17mm impact gun ect they just live on the bench LOL Might want to get the shop to time the mag for you,esp if you don't have a dial indicator that fits in the sparky hole. 4 weeks till spring fingers crosed will be ridin by then again. O ya rember to tape rags all ove the frame when puttin in the new motor wouldn't want to scratch the new paint

If the shop comes back at 575.00 you got hosed...Your bike still ran right? just the wheel bearings stop you right? And they should have done that by now at least ?If so go pick up your bike thank them for there time and get dirty. Don't tell them your comming just show up I would say 1 hr is far labour to pay for the wheel brngs and disc replacement. + towing on top and get it out. The bash plate you can figure it out most likey the bolts fell out, the side light well ?? burnt out ,when john ( not sure on that) changed his light on the same bike he posted here that his bike wouldn't start, changed it back to stock and no problem,not sure why. I will help you get through it And I'm sure other will as well but you will need a multi meter ,test light and the manual. And a tube of dielectric grease to grease every connection in the wireing harness and while your doing that check ever connection for corrosion or burnt wires.Sound like alot of work but in reality only a hr or less. First we gona check that you have power to the starter selonoid ( battery to selonoid),then power to the small wire at the sol when the button is pressed,then power going to the starter (sel to starter) while the button is pressed. This you will need the mulit meter to chec the amount of voltage that is going through. 15 min job tops. Then we check the pick up coil resistance, this you might need a hair drier to warm it up to 20deg C and a thermometer to check the temp for acurate results all elecs get check at 20c. Then the spark coil it's self if both test fine then the last thing to do is change the cdi so long as you didn't find any corroded or burn wires again a 15-20 min job.Changing out the pick up coil is a 20 min job coil or cdi 5 min. The horn is simple ...test light on wire at horn press button if light lights up then replace horn. So see how my labour charges would work out any more than 4 hr labour and you got screwed so 160 labour+ parts your guys prices , as I found them on different sites,I'm laied up from a snowmobile crash (twisted knee and ankel ski got hooked in a fence and threw me off) last weekend and boared so i looked around. 15 pads 60 rotor 12 wheel brngs 10 horn 65 starter 130 cdi 290.00+160=450.00 but it shouldn't take 4 hrs more like 2.5-3 I know I said 2-3 to figure out non running but I was refering to a gold wing that takes a hr to get to the test locations not a dirt bike that takes less that 15 min to strip the body work off

I know what type of filter housing your talking about task but yep they come in the box here always have,I would never reuse a old oring,and I always pre wash the area befor removing the old, never had a filter leak on me from my instalation, However I took my Bandit in for it's first check-up ( for warenty) at 1000 kms and the dealer put the wrong filter on my bike, Fuck was I pissed cover in oil from the waist down and then some,long story short I had the right 1 at home fixed myself. I eventualy got fully compensated from the dealer for drycleaning and full refund for the service after alot of bitching and a letter to suzi canada.

Thats strange Task every filter even the cheape ones here come with a new O ring,oops forgot did have to buy 1 with a YAMAHA filter,but that aside every aftermarket does,had a boss once who charged for the o ring but it still came in the box with the new filter. If you forgot to get a new crush washer and it's copper just heat it red hot and re use ,i'm still using the orignal 1's on the wr that it came with there are 3 drain plugs on it never had a leak.

I say they are draging thiere feet should have had the eng sorted by now and a proper full estimate,I have no idea about repair time your way,but short of a complete eng rebuild or some back order part on a slow boat from japan 2-3 days is the norm for me and most of the shops in and around here. Like my teacher said if you can't figure out why a bike wont run in 2-3 hrs your not doing the tests right,a week to get a disc and figure out what's wrong is way too long, your bike is so simple to get at the elec's that within a hour 1/2 I would have tested everything related to the no start tops and had a answer for you. Ps I sent 2 of my best homing chickens your way just in case 1 got lost

Was going to bug you about this,so now just need the motor back and done?

New oil filters come with new o rings

1/4 turn will make it difficult to ride in traffic,more just for dirt or drag racing when your wfo most of the time , the 1/2 would be a better choice IMO

The vac line to the petcock needs to fit tight no cracks ,if thats good, then the diaphram in the petcock is no good. You can check it by removing the fuel line at the tank and put it in res or on then put a hose to the small nipple and suck on it if no gas flow out then its no good Put it back on pri and start the bike if it runs that way then run it like that using on or off to stop gas flow when not running,untill you can get the new diaphram or another petcock with just a simlpel on off res none diaphram style

F the horn next time and boot the car,dick head drivers

I have a basic set of tools that I get by with, but I don't have a workshop. My girlfriend has a garage with electric, but she lives 11 miles away. I am thinking of commandeering that because she doesn't use it. LOL need a better reason to have to spend the night? sorry hun I didn't get it all done I finnish it in the morning

Thats very cool the weight saving and drag on the eng will= hp+ it's been talked about but thats the first 1 I have seen working in a car on the road in real world conditions

My guess with a new starter and cdi 390.00 + 2 chickens ,a jar of vasoline(optinal if you can take dry) and you have to name your 1st child after the shop

Well you got it before it went BANG, them dam pesky crank seals in 2t

????? touched a wire by mistake????? Me thinks you need to fix wiring befor trying another cdi Not startor.... pick up coil restiance test in order.. cdi go by part # others here can tell you which ones work better or will work

Hi ask away......... but do you have any knowlage of how it works? If not then buy a repair manual and start reading,but feel free to ask ?????'s