dt502001

Three bond and yammabond are what I'v always used never had a problem with either,rebuilt many a 350 with both.

Man you got the luck,to bad it's all bad. So to reflect on what others have said,buy the 300 eng put it in yourself now your hours have been cut you have time, a used head has got to be worth 75.00 and a good barrel and piston should fech you some cash as well and you could recoupe a 100 of the 300 so this could turn into a 200 dollar fix and that is not bad considering how much you dumped on it in the last year. Or use this old eng to learn on take it appart and fix it and have a back up motor and learn everything you need to know to fix any other bike you own.

Thats good news,just wondering why go with a e start and not the kick so much weight to be saved removing the starter and you could have bought a much smaller battery as you don't need the power to drive the estarter.Or is the starter on that part of the gennie? I take it your going cafe' style with this project from the thread about forks,post some picts up so everyone can have a look as you go

Remove the cable from the speedo and turn the front wheel the inner should turn ,if not remove the cable at the wheel and check the cable inner is not in 2 pieces and hook up the cable to speedo if in 1 piece and turn inner by hand if speedo works then the drive in the front wheel is not working.If not speedo is broken If you had the front wheel off did you align the drive to the wheel when reinstalling the wheel?

Hi Dougie your best soloution is to do all of the mentioned lower the front and rear as well as shave the seat. Keep in mind that the steering geomerty will be affected so you need to lower the front and rear equaly or end up with a ill handeling bike. you can also cut the length of the springs to lower the front more but you loose travel and if the spring is progressivly wound then you loose some softness or firmness depending on wich end you cut.4 inches is alot of lowering Sorry cant help with bole size but just take the nut off and measure the bolt you dont have to take it all appart

Mabey I'm looking at this wrong but,what about offering to help him get his licence and insurance in exchange for not riding it untill he gets his licence. A contract that if he rides it then it's sold period end of contract. If he's not intrested then just take the wheels off and tell him he can have them back when he gets things in order,don't tell him his mom asked you to do it,tell him it's that or you will call the cops on him.So what if the little prick hates you .

No it's not A COP drewp,and the rubber boot is all 1 piece so no way to remove and put on new.But the resistor is removable looks like a small glass tube fuse,so i went over to the wreckes and bought a boot ,well sort of brought beer I know the owner well we ride together, took the resistor out and put it in the old boot and fixed it. Got a new horn for the bandit as well so 10 bucks for a 6 pack of beer and both bikes fixed. Except now the wr is got some crap in the carb ,got the bike running/starting right and the pipe at the head will glow red after running for 2-3 min,Ive cleand it 3 x( spray cleaner and blow with air) and still no good bought a new piolet jet up 1 42to45 and new pilot fuel screw still no joy. The carb is soaking in carb cleaner now and hopefully what ever is stuck in there will come free.Never had so much trouble cleaning a carb and actualy quite confused as to how it got so dirty/gumed up, the carb was drained befor winter. But somthing is making it run super lean.

LOL I know my chin hit the floor when the parts guy told me how much at my local yamme dealer,I asked if it came with the coil,nope just the cap.For 70 it should be made of gold It's special in the fact that it has a rubber seal to keep dirt out of the deep hole the plug sits in and so far i cant find a ngk replacement might just buy another cap and remove the resistor and put it in the old boot and they are in the fiver range here as well.

Thanks thats what I thought,I took the resistor out and put a bolt in all is good now, just have to find a new after market boot ,not paying 70.00 bucks for a stoick one

My wr is being a pig to start cold,valve clearence fine, carb cleaned and set,new spark plug x2. I have read the factory manual cover to cover and no mention of the spark plug boot resistance,I'm getting 11k ohm readings and thinking its to high should be around 5 k IMO. Anyone know what it should be?

Congrats,are you window shoping for a new bike yet?what catches your eye?

Well that suks,guess who ever hardened it only case harden it. Instead of cutting it off ,now that it's under pressure what about soaking it with a good penatrating fuild for a couple of days,heat it and go at it againg with trying to shock it off,with a couple of good hard blows on whats left of the puller.Even if it only moves enought to release the tension on the puller so it spins back out then you could use another puller to finnish the job.

HAha no reving it wont do it ,yes very easy to replace just un plug and plug in new. some old bike had them in the head light bucket. Its just a piece of tin that heats up and breaks contact eventualy wear out. Just leave the bike not running and keep turning the signal on and off and listen by the side pannels and head light bucket and you will hear the click you can feel it click as well when you find it. Look up the part online and you will know what it looks like making it easier to find.

The flasher relay will be in one of the side pannels,should be a location in the manual.but it will click when the signalis turned on and should keep clicking if working properly,flick it with your finger and if it flashes even just once then it's buggered.99% chance thats your problem. Just turn the signal on and listen for the click eve if you have to keep turning it on and off.

A woman goes to the Doctor in Glasgow, worried about her husband's temper and threatening manner. The Doc asks: "What's the problem, Janet? The woman says: "Weeell Doctor Cameron, I dinae know what to do. Every time ma hubbie comes home drunk, he threatens to slap me aroon'." The Doctor says: "Aye, well... I have a real good cure for that. When your husband arrives home intoxicated, just take a wee glass of water and start swishing it in your mouth. Just swish and swish but don't swallow it until he goes to bed and is sound asleep." Two weeks later she comes back to the doctor looking fresh and reborn. She says: "Doctor that was brilliant! Evrae time ma hubbie came home drunk, I swished with water. I swished an' swished, and he didnae touch me even once! Tell me Doc...wha's the secret? How's the water do that?" The Doctor says: "Janet, it's really nae big secret. The water does bugger all - it's keeping your mouth shut that does the trick..."

Tony's right the 83-84 are the ones your after bolt straight on,not in your country but paul at sonic cycle has broken quite a few rz350s for parts and might have a tank as well www.soniccycle.com and ships world wide. EDIT you only need the top clamp if you lower is good.

My mistake only the 1000s does a fuel pump.

Well Matt it sound electrical,so go over the basics first check for loose dirty connections,figuer out wich cyl is going down,swap coils, plug caps and see if it switches cyl's. easy to check with a non contact temp gun if you have 1 or access to 1 If not then check the pick up coil's againts each other,I belive the sv has 1 per cyl. O on second thought do a comperssion test as well might have a weak valve spring from sitting compressed for so long and your getting valve float at 5k rpm. The Sv also uses a fuel pump so you need to check the fuel volume availble,not pressure VOLUME ie 1 liter per x time,the pump might not be able to supply enough fuel at 5 k and both cylinders are running lean. I have seen lots of pumps make good pressure but fail on volume so run the pump for at least 5 min and watch the flow.And be careful no sparks or smoking around open container of gas I know this wasn't a exact answer but you don't know if thats why the bike got parked in the first place,so by process of elimination you will find the problem.And if the members can help with a car then I'm sure they will help with a SV if they can.

Bent/worn shift fork,possibly engaugment dogs on 2nd gear, driven and drive gear will need replacing as well most likely. Take a couple of minutes and pop over to the new members section and say hello and a bit about yourself,you will get alot more responces to ???'s most first post ?'s don't get answered untill you do.

If you have your spokes already,assemble them wheels and place in the bike,then you can measure and center the wheels for alignment. The spokes length will be fairly close to set the offset,if any, then you could ask a member to measure his bike at the same location to confirm.If you can't find any offset in the manual then normaly there is none.

Hey Billy the seat height is 990mm,if money is no option then the King Till Monday is a slightly better bike,but when it come to buying parts your pockets better be deep.Parts for a ktm are dear. And only a skilled rider could realy tell the difference ,and the difference in price will buy quite a few parts for the Yamaha. Everyone I know who bought a KTM sold it and went back to a jap bike,just because of parts costs.

Congrats Bippo,once you have ridden a bigger bike you will want one

Welcome Steve,as it's a popular ? for loading picts you need photo bucket or simmilar check out FAQ's for more info.

Hi nutter welcome,no on site picture loader,photbuc or simmalr required to load picts. Check it out in new members FAQ its all in there

Astandard race eng thats no fun,I woud have gone with port the head, totaly lose the charging system , shave the crank, big bore kit, lighter chain and sprockets 420 slicks and rains light weight battery mod the exhaust wide band o2 sensor and power commander and as dirty sadi shave everything off not needed