dt502001

Black hat is DEAD on why 2t are getting fazed out,a bunch of political bs,Honda started the idea that "2t were dirty and as a responsable race community we need to clean up our racing,as such we will faze out the 2t class " not a exact quote but I rember reading it years ago. Aprlia was kicking thier ass in 125 -250.Honda couldn't steal the pattons or buy Aprlia as they wouldn't sell out to them. And as Honda basical tell the F.M.I. what the new rule's will be the rest just had to follow suit. Traction control,who got it right so it would work on bikes HONDA ...BANG new ruel TC is allowed,same with slipper clutches. It's the golden rule "he who has the gold makes the rules" and nobody (Bike manufactuers) have any where near the cash to spend on racing than Honda It all complet BS read my post about clean 2t and how canada is leading the way. Bombardia make 2t so clean you throw out mor oil in a year riding a 4t than the 2t could possibly burn.Over the same distance. It's all the muther @#$%^ tree huggers they see some comming out the tail piep and start screaming your poluting,when the real fact is that a properly set up 2t once warmed up will burn more of the co's and run cleaner over the life of the motor. Cheaper to build due to less parts to make =less polutiants,but nobody seems to think about that,The 4t wear out just as fast as the 2t when your talking about race bikes,but cost 4x as much to maintain. I.E. rebuild a 2t top end new rings 60-70 bucks 2-3 times then bore and new piston & rings cost @ 600.... rebuild a 4t once new rings check valves new shims to reset the clearence 125.00 minum after the 4-5 th rebuild your throwing all the valves away + the springs + the keepers re cutting the valve seats or replacing them can run 1000.00 easy then if the cylinder is worn your replating the cylinder minum 300.00. all these part have to be made and that = poloution, they have to be shipped =poloution,they have to be recycled=poloution Blow up the 2t well it wont run you much over 1200.00 blow up the 4t your looking at a 3000.00 to 4000.00 rebuild.Just comparing a yz 250 to a yzf250 So from a aspect of wich motor is makeing more poloution bulding the 4t will will make 10x or more the poloution,in manufacturing and running/maintaing the motor than a 2t. So what is comming out the tail pipe is null and void,again people don't think about the BIG picture just what the higher up's tells them. Well thats my RANTING over 2t's got a bad rap about blowing up years ago,mostly cause people forgot to put oil in them,or didn't mix it properly.

sorry your question is vage at best do you want to put bigger forks on or handle bars.?

LOL no John I leard the relly hard way my dad toughtme sice I was 6-16 then told me to fix myself. ( and if you had my dad teahing you would understand why thats the hard way LOL) Tought me alot but absoutly not good at explaing anything and only ever told you once and you better do it right I'v been turning wrenches most of my life as a mechanic. And after reading as many manuals as I have ,you would have learned alot too. So get to reading and then get dirty hands

Aha but better to be warned than to go blindly un known and wreck a whole motor. Could even be a broken piston,seen that before the skirt comes off and the dam thing stil runs,better to get some small bad news than no news at all.

Well considering you have yet to findout what you valve train is like thats a good idea,you may need to spend some cash in there and a TE rebuild can run into a g note. Typical things that will need doing yearly 1 new rings 2 replating the cylinder roughly 300 eveery 4-5 rebuilds 3 new valves,, keepers and springs This can varry DOE like can you remove and replace the valves yourself or are you going to pay someone to do it for you ,I've seen that alone come to close to a G note for a complete re fresh and quick porting,not much to clean up porting wise but every head is slightly different and some work can be done to improve the flow.Over all the factoy did a awsome job on these engines,mostly just a clean up aroung the valve guides and de buring any left over casting imperfections is all thats needed.That can be done easy with a long bit on a dremal and a few sand wheels don't let anyone tell you it needs hours of work to port it,that would be complet BS. But enough shop talk when are you going to go and try to scare the crap out of yourself and ride this thing,ya got to itching by now. Or has a late night adventure happened allready I know I would have slaped the plate on and gone for a ride by now or taken it to a track and had a go.

afterlooking closer at your bike you have closer to 04 body work,you have the easy access air filter with the door .the rad shoruds have a fill in piece in the center of the air hole. I though the biks went 01-03 same style the 04-06 and 07-10 but from what your saying look's like the 03 might be all by it's self,ok just had A thought so I went and checked out my fave plastic site. checked out www.decalmx.com they list 01-02 03-06 then so on but looks as I thought 04 is the same a little pricey 140 a pair USD but they are haveing a promo and mounting free decals.you can check out wwwmxplastic.com they migh be cheaper for plain plastic but I like decal works cause you get wicked stickers with your custom numbers and they have 3 different styles to choose from and all you have to do is bolt them on no pissing about tryin to mount decals. rad shrouds are only listed under the yzf but look Identical to yours fron and rear fenders 20 each and 40 for the pair of shrouds and yz side pannels are 40 bucks cheaper. I put the yz side pannels on mine and just had to trim a we bit of plastic from the back side to fit around the coolant tank can't see why you couldn't do the same,hit the local dirt track and ask some one with a yz if you can try on one just to see if it will fit.Someone will even have some old plastic kicking around you could get cheap and save yours for the steet

Well I hadn't seen th ufo set up but it look to me like a yz fender with a tail tidy,and yes thats what I was suggesting to do.about the 03 modle parts like plastics I though were all the same.What I can do is take some measure ments of the mounting points for the rad shrouds ,looking at your picts it looks very much the same as mine Got to get off to work now but I 'll have a better look after work

Wow good thing it was bigg enough to jam the fan and not just spinn round and round till it ground it's way through the rad that would have been costly and a bummer you would have been suck at the side of the road and possibly burt from hot coolant spraing on you.

Follow the link NEO sent you. The power starts from the ing switch to start switch 44 to relay 46 to clutch switch 41 to side stand switch and finnaly gounded to colse the relay and send power to the starter via the other 2 wires connected to the relay. 40 is a one way diode,check this with a mulit meter should only show contiunity in one direction when the test leads are reversed you should get no reading.. if thats good go to next step. So following the path power with a test light you should have power from switch button pressed to relay blue with white power from relay sky blue to clutch switch red/black from clutch switch depressed orange to sidestand switch 39 closed (up) to ground.. So a quick check would be to remove the ground from the stand switch close clutch and sand switch key on and with a mulitmeter set on dc when the b O well you found it but I all ready typed it out so maybey the next person can use this info

1st to 2nd gear chang problems 99% of the time bent shift fork,if the bike has ever been droped on the left side,even just falling over off the side stand can bend the fork.enough to cause shifting problems.false neturals.If you hold the shifter up while releasing the clutch and it goes better than most likely the fork is bent,if it blow back out of gear still then the dogs and windows are worn. First thing to do is change the oil and if no improvment then you can open the clutch cover and check the detent spring,but mostlikely you going to have to split the case and change out the fork and re cut the dogs and windows on the 2 gears for 2nd, most racers will have that gear undercut creating a ramp so when the dogs meet the window they pull themself together.temporay fix shift to 3rd

First thing to do is introduce yourself in the new members section,it's the polite thing to do.Most member's won't give you the time of day untill you do Just a bit about yourself and skill levels. Do you have a manual? Chech the resistance of the pick up coil. check the termanial on the black wire for spreding/loose connection. check side stand switch and kill switch for cotnuity and using a multy meter set on the ohm scale watch to see them open and close check the pump's resistance,also you could feed the pump directly 12v to see if it works at all, But I have no idea if your capable of doing any of this ,the introduction in new members would help

Drewps your right.. but I have no fear,I dont actualy drive the truck anywhere near the rim I just use a long board ...too hard to explane but it works for me.. Ps ever seen the "dukes of hazzard" my dodge fly's too ocasionally,, I love off roading. If you can't beat it, dodge it ,if you can't dodge it ram it,, if ya can't ram it XXXX it, why they make other types of trucks is beyond me DODGE rules for trucks. The rest are just poorly made copys

Um you need oil in the motor to see smoke. do a compression test I bet you got about 0 just cause it goes up and down dosen't mean anything. the 4 rules of a 4 stroke ....suck fuel, squezze fuel, bang fuel, blow burnt fuel,bet your misssing the squeze part ie as Blackhat said no compression

Not sure of the rules in you neck of the woods but the factory manual comes with the bike in all languages you should have got it with the bike PITA to read through but I will have a look through it to see if the banjo bolt is specified. The book says " front brake hose union bolt m10x1.25" so you would want a double to put a front switch on. torque spec is 22ft lbs or 30Nm....I take it your going to put a front brake switch on? Should be easy to run some new wires and tie them into the rear brake switch wires. As for the valves get a set of feeler gauges and get to work, you don't need any new gaskets unless the old one's leak already.I cant count how many times I've had mine off and still using the same ones that came with it. The trail tect is a nice piece if i wanted a speedo I would go that way, the magnet fit's in the brake rotor and is prety hard to knock off when dirting,but it's still a computer and you cant beat a mechanicl speedo for reliability. I'llbe watching to see how it works out esp the axel part I realy want to find out about if the xt wheels will work With how many of thoes bike were sold shouldn't be hard to find a used set to Sm my bike. paved track bike in the works 290cc kit and yeha road legal weapon good for dirt and urban assualt

Running the bike down to the last weee bit (1/4 of a liter) of oil will surely have dammaged something. Only pulling the motor and striping it down will tell you what you have dammaged.

+1 late model 88- 90's fz1000 rims were known to be 1 oz out or more with no tire. If you have the means ballance the rim witout a tire then every change of tire after will be much easier. I took a grinder and removed . metal from the rim to get it right/closer before installing a new tire Drewps/Preload I just put a board on the tire and drive the truck up on the board to break the bead off the rim,works every time I put the whole thing on carpet first so not to scratch the rim. Disclaimer if you try this and drive over your rim and wreck it don't blame me........... this is just how I do it!

I lost interest a long time ago with this project but,why are you going to spend a ton of cash on this bike,when you could buy a cheap bike and just ride it,and keep the mx 100 for goofing around on ..would seem much simpler to me. There are tons of bikes to be had for less than what your going to spend on this .and faster more reliable. The speedo won't work with the 6v system and stuffing in a 12 v battery wont fix the problem. Now if your still dead set on doing this buy a bicycle speedo it has its own battery and will work cheap @ 50 bucks,but you still need some way of running the lighting system,and as far as I know there is no lighting coil avable to fit the mx 100 but I could be wrong. I know that in Alberta, basicly there is no laws reguarding what you can and can't drive on public roads ,but for you own saftey you should get a real street bike/enduro for roughly 1000.00 bucks you can get a bike that will be set up for street riding and better than the mx 100 a old seca 400 or a xt 250 350 would be the better choice and your going to spend way more than that tring to get this project done. I'm not tring to sound like your dad but realy your wasting you money atempting this http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=505170460 here is a example of what is avalible in your area took me 5 min to find it and dude only wants exactly 1000.00 bet you could offer him 900 and get it http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-motorcycles-street-cruisers-choppers-2010-Konker-SM200-W0QQAdIdZ505170460 this is the whole ad and the bike only has 1000 kms them suzis run for ever,if it wasn't 35 hrs away I go buy it,second though you better get on it before I set up a deal with the guy.

I know the motor is ducked you ran it out of oil and think it will be OK just because you now put more in NOT YOU KILLED IT

Ok a compression test is needed and you should check the valve lash on the 1 you havent touched,wondering did you get the other 1 right? And No you cant ballance a single carb it is what it is.Though a good look and clean won't hurt,but without re reading I think you did that allready.

Nope Billy they will have to come off to change the seals. Best to use fork oil of the correct weight for opt performance.

A hair dryer normaly works well to get stickers off,then a little gas on a rag to get any left over glue

Hey John the fender bolts right on the side/number pannel need a small bit trimed to fit around the collant tank,but the rest of the bikes are basicaly the same,tranny ratios are different I think and obviously the fly wheel and staror are different(yz has no lighting coil and a lighter fly wheel. Chang the spark plug often because it's a royal pain in the ass,and no way your going to do it at the side of the road.I use a socket drop it it the hole then a 2inch extension break it free with a wratchet then remove the rachet because it will get traped between the frame befor the plug is free,then to install the plug I cut the boot off a spark plug wire from a car to set the plug in and start it threading in. Always blow the hole clean before pulling the plug, not much dirt will ever get in because the top is sealed by the boot but you don't want any crap getting in the motor. Take care of the boot when removing it cause they are 80 bucks Canadian funds and nobody make one but yamaha. I know because the resistor went in mine and I rebuilt it with a doner resistor. Check the oil level every ride they all eat oil. Not much but enough. Check the valve clearence often and replace the springs when you change the valves they get bent over time, the spring that is. And you will want to chang the valve's yearly at least depending on how much you ride,DEL WEST sell titanium valves,keepers and retainers bit cheaper and way better than stock you will get about 3x the life out of them www.hpsport.us .If you don't you can bet you will drop a valve and that will run you into the 3 grand mark to fix. The spring pressuer is so high that the keepers cut into the valve stem and then SNAP the top comes off or the keeper pop off.So when you check your clearence if 1 is getting tight more than the others best to pull the head and remove the valve and check it for wear you might even have to file the valve around the keeper area to get it out The ratios 4:1 means the cable will turn 4x more than the drive for the speedo needle. Them bicycle spedoos work OK but a pain in the ass to read cause they are so small and they don'trun on the bike elec's you have to put watch battery's in them and the magnet you stick on the rim tends to fall off if you go dirting then you end up buying a new one just for the magnet.The dt option is the better choice IMO or bit the bullet and get the vapor lots of cool featuers in them. Anyway I have the factoy manual so any thing you need to know just ask and I can tell you what the book says

Original can is quite and road legal,but it looks like someone has been riding with that 1 I would go with it and see if you can get it DB tested,its a older can befor db reg's were in place at tracks and look a little like a Vance and hines can but not sure. If they removed the baffel then throw it away ,its junk, the bike needs the back pressure and if some dolt pulled it out for sound then the bike is slower than with the stock pipe,actualy the best pipe's only make 1 hp or so difference but mess with the mid range HP and tend to move it up in the rev range so you have to be realy on the gas and reving the crap out of it to notice. Yzf cams make a bigger difference in HP I run the stock pipe and 4th gear wheelies are no problem.Motor is ported and fitted with yz cams.Top speed yes bigger bike's will win but 0-60 you will stomp all over them if you can keep the front end down.Anything under 600cc won't stand a chance. Well I bet your all giggles after your first ride and a wee bit shocked to think it's only a 250 where did they hide the nitros bottle, after so many miles on the XT,enjoy your new steed. I love mine and as all the parts fit up to 2010 shouldn't have any problem for a while getting parts so it's a keeper. I have a question do the wheel axel's from the xt look like it would fit,I doubt it.But if the part number for a XT rim and a sm wrf250 are the same then it's just a matter of swaping out the bearings,I want to get a set of Sm wheels for my bike and the best price I can find is in the 2 grand mark so looking at other rims to put on ,mabey just some cast wheels used

Bike is the same save for the alumi sub frame . yep that the tail tidy I was on about and if you get a yz rear fende then it fits under with no ugly holes. and is nicer looking as it has a flatter shape About the speedo I would look into getin a rz/rd one then it should work yam uses the same drive on most of thier bikes. some of the aftermarket ones will say fits yam and give the ratio still think it's 4:1. As far as the chain guard no place to mount 1.

Cable is the same size but you need to get the right ratio ie 1 to 4... or ....1 to 5 or the speedo will be out . I'm prety sure you need a 1to 4 . but if you get the wrong one just have a mate ride with you and check the speed then adjust in your brain ie shows 40 but actualy 50,I never put a speedo on mine don't care how fast I'm going. Not sure about your laws but the plate has no light so a tail tidy is the better option,the accerbis one fit on nice and then you get bracket for plate and light for it. about 60 bucks.