dt502001

Yep for my brother and all before/after him

Welcom to the YOC hope you have better luck with the bike than the taptalk,passed test in 13/12/2013 time machine LOL

The way the MTO works here is if equiped it must work,other area's of concern would be if you got into a ccident and the insurance deemed the abs could have been benifical,and you knowing disabled it then who knows. To my experience with ins co's they will try anything to not pay. I had a quick look and sit on the bolt,but I didn't pay any attention to the ABS .What way are they decting the wheel speed.IE a reluctor ring,or through the wheel bearing,a pickup on the rotor? are the rims spoked to cast the same size? Armed with enough info it could be possible to make the spoked wheel work with the ABS. If you pull the fuse you will be constantly looking at the ABS light,and ABS units do not like to be turned off for periods of time the pump and selonoides tend to stick.ABS is very expensive to fix if you have to replace the control unit,things like slightly worn wheel bearings can cause false modulation of the abs,IE you traveling at normal speed and the wheel is not locking up but the ABS thinks it is and go off and it actualy takes farther to stop.,when things like that happen the only way to fix it is to have a scan tool that can record and play live data to determin the cause. If the front and rear speed sensors dont agree with eachother then again false modulation. In short ABS is a great thing when working properly for new riders who haven't mastered the art of breaking,unfortunatly it is still a fairly new thing in the evoloution of brakes. And has it's bugs still to be worked out As with any electical control system it has it's faults. Bottom line just more things to breakIMO I have ridden bike's with ABS and don't like it at all. 1 you can't do endos( not that big a deal on the bolt) 2 hard breaking that might lift the rear cause the ABS to go off( again NBD on the bolt) 3 most are using a linked system wich dosen't alow you to ride the rear brake to set up the preload on the rear suspension entering a corrner 4 you have to ride in the way the bike wants you to ride itIE no drifting the back end out FT style,some won't even let you do a wheelie 5 AND the worst part I just don't "feel" in control,and I have no faith in a computer to not screw up when I need it the most.

:idea:DO NOT DO THIS TO A GAS TANK!!!!!!!!! ..............IF YOU DO AND IT BLOWS UP IN YOUR FACE DO NOT BLAME ME!!!!!. Just .Thought you might have other dents to remove from the exhaust as well.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSHD9tI2vWM. This is a way for removing dents in EXHAUST pipes NOT GAS TANKS! I know nothing ,,I see nothing,,, HOGAN!!!

Cool it worked out,did you ever put in the other valve from CT? What company did you use,I checked out ABS farrings and they didn't do 1 for your bike,they carry whole body kits for the r6,r1 ect.. aprox 600 painted+graphics+windscreen dirt cheap IMO but nothing for bikes as old as yours.

I would NOT suggest you run the bike at all, Nor did I......simply fill and flush!!! Parts cleaner's are basicaly a form of Deisle fuel. or varsol.

Well that sum it up then Mc ferra if you have adjusted the arm properly then the only thing's left are worn/glazed plates or weak springs

What Dirty said and check the temp of each exhaust pipe a cold pipe will get you going to the right cylinder,most likely it's not the head gasket,common symptoms of head gasket failure is over heating,coolant blowing out of overflow tank/motor. Spark plug washed clean. Narrow down the possibilty's first.

Ah I see now the free play is achived by the cam in the chain cover returning past the point of touching the push rod,so holding the actuating arm with resistance against the push rod is essential when setting the arm to the pip on the case via the adjusting screw in the pressure plate.

Air head is the pressure plate screw not suposed to be loosened 1/8 of a turn after bottoming before tighting the lock nut? To alow the pressure plate to fully seat.

Or you can just fill the gear box with Deisel fuel till it wont take anymore and shake the bike for a few min and drain it,let it dry over night with the filler cap and drain plug out.

Hi Terry welcome to the YOC,I have been looking for a srx600 in Ontario can`t find one post up a pict.

It`s definatly going to be a 1 off bike when done it looks great now.Cool place to shoot the picts,the tag artists are good.

That would explain why thoes bikes are getting so hard to find this side,rarely do you ever see 1 in that nice of shape thats original.And by rarely I mean almost never. Personaly I would weld up the original cases,find a proper fender(if possible aged as well) and leave it as per is. Faded paint and all. Just something about walking up to a bike that you can tell it is unmolested original,but still ridden is a ultra cool factor,bikes are a work of art to some of us and as they say beauty is in the eye of the beholder. To me all a bike needs to be is clean and in good working order to be beautiful,faided paint just shows how good the paint was to last all thoes years. Some bikes you have no choice but to start over to make them even ridable,but taking a bike thats almost as new and redoing it to be new is a shame IMO,letting it show it`s battel scares of victoy over the years is more impressive to me than any `restored`` bike.

Fitting different wheels on any bike normaly requires making spacers to center the wheel,changing the wheel bearings to fit the axel,if your existing rotor wont fit the new wheel or you want a bigger 1 then you need to make a new hanger for the caliper. Why do you want to change wheels?

No idea on what you paid for it but a very nice piece to start with,is the paint original?

Thats got to make you feel great,knowing that the motor is ready. I see you have the start wires removed from the housing ,does this give me a clue that the start button is getting relocated?

Hi mikki welcome to the YOC,just wondering why a yz 80 of vintage age of 1985 surely the cost of parts to fix it will cost more than buying a newer used model.

Just found out myself RIP L R Your on the wilde side now

LOL reminds me of "I gave you 1 job" search it up I lost the link some funny signs like shcool croosing

Have some of them tools myself,great find Drewps saved in faves

Haha same idea within seconds of posting

The bike is still going to be sitting for a whlie why not just pull the battery from the car and us it to start the motor,if it dosen't have enough juice then you have other problems

Depending on dec weather,with the snow we have gotten so far I think we be taking the snowmobiles, but if its still nice enough to ride I'll consider it. June I'm in

First glad your ok. you did so many things wrong 1st was you were going to fast for your comfort level 2nd you set the corrner up all wrong and failed to hit the apex 3rd you looked at the trees instead of looking where you wanted to go. The number 1 rule I teach is don't ever look where you don't want to go,alwasy focus on where you want to be at the middle and end of the corrner.When i get the kids doing this they stop running off the coruse and crash way less.As soon as you focus on a coruse of dircetion you normaly end up there. Even if you had leaned more and low sided at that speed you would have stoped befor hitting the trees,you got lucky the grass wasn't covered in wet leaves,or a normal curb and hit the trees that would have done way more dammage to yourself and the bike than a low side slide. Keep in mind that this time of year the roads don't provide as much traction,your tires don't heat up as much wet leaves can be around every corrner. As the other members suggested engine braking would have been enough to scrub off the speed,you should practice this beeing in a lower gear and running high revs provides more effect. All's well that ends well,chalk this one up as leson learned.This is why I suggested a day at cayuga,it will give you the confidence to lean the bike over with good tires the FZ is capable of draging the pegs.