dt502001

Well that explains alot ,see i`m slightly colour blind and pink ,purple and red all look the same to me,My appoliges to all you fuckes running around with the pink power bands I installed thinking they were red ones. O well most of you were tossers anyway and chicks will talk to gay guys. So your all going slower than promessed but at least your talking to women now and have a chance of getting laid finaly. I have red coating in stock and can recoat your power band if you want,but do you realy want to chance it`s the closest to a woman you've been since your mother held you as a child,ignore all the guys laughing at you butter cup ,,,,face it with out my mistake you wouldn`t stand a chance at ever even talking to a woman never mind gettin laid.

FYI alls fine this side

LMAO top shelf drinks and strippers in hamilton is like??? well you know youve been there. SHOE GUM anyone.

At the strip club in hamilton? Now that you mentioned cams just turns out that Drew has uncoverd some secrets about the xj and fz and the cams are different to the tune of + hp 1990-1 cams seem to be the ticket. Mor to be checked out though valves may be diff.

steak's then and top shelf drinks

Thoes are stock bore pistons measure them and get you barrel rechecked if the measurment you gave are right then the cylinder is .055 over and the piston would be slaping around in there. take a top ring and push it down into the cylinder with the piston 1/3rd of the way and use your feeler gauges and measure the end gap of the ring

+1

Check this thread you might find some tips to do that wont be so obivious.

Turn you square around and check again use the middel of the square to doo all your measurements would have been better to buy a longer square so you could lay it accross the whole head surface at once. As long as the combined head and block is less than .005 your fine.

Hi and welcome to the nut house, a twin light geni 1987 havent seen one here for some time My buddy Mark had 1 back in the day turbo charged 100mph roll on wheelies

Great more snow ffs people are just getting power back from the ice storm 2.5 weeks ago some are still down. And your out riding you new bike GRRRRRR enjoy looks like a nice ride,suposed to be real torque mongers cant wait till the yam day to ride one mised it last year.

always inspiring how much time someone will put into a old part,, why it will shatter the first rock that hit's it hard.

Tommy..... your one lucky guy looks like a day of bliss. Enjoy every minute

EERRRRR UMMM exactly where does the pipe go to and how does it attach? ..... what kind of sex porn you selling here...................... you stick it WHERE ! I don't think so...... talk to foams

Well I can't say your name ..but ....hey welcome on "hot pipe under ass"

Happy New year ye'all Old muther fackers may we all be here next year.

Take the battery out it's taking all the charge from the mag.Then it will probably start.

PA sells vernier calipers for ?10-15 bucks cheap but will work.

1.25x12mm stud is that not the spec ,for that stud? Lookie in the bookie. no need to measure it. Keen set is a better way but dam you got to buy the whole kit $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Heli coil and some green or yellow lock tight cant remember right now but 1 is muter ^ perment Shop vac with a crevice tool attachment right beside the drill bit and it will catch/suck the crap out and because you can get around the hole easy to block it off from the B/E 100 for hone bore and inserts your mad.Not going to happen. Bet the "quote" come's back closer to 200.

Personaly i would just buy the heli coil and put it in myself,if you can drill a straight hole and turn a tap thread then it not hard,all the stuff you need comes as a kit short of a drill. Your not drilling from blank metal you allready have the hole just need to enlarge it .5mm or less. And about honing the cylinder for what the shop will charge you to do it you can buy a hone ffrom Princess Auto and save yourself some cash. A hundred for a spare motor is a deal and a half,esp if you score a cdi in the other parts,I would be tempted to scrap this project and just stuff in the other motor.You can do a compression test on it before stuffing it in,and this would keep the cost way down as your bike is realy only going to fech 15-1800 when you sell. Dumping alot at a bike you will sell to up grade in a year or so well thats up to you.You can chalk up all the work you have done as a learning project and get it back in running order on the cheap,this started as fixing a oil leak/exhaust leak not like you weren't happy with the power .For someone who had never done any of this type of work you have done well if you do decide to go the used motor route but still want to get what it's like to reassemble a motor,just put it back together minus new head gaskets and new rings( just re-use the old rings and a new base gasket) .Then you have a complete spare parts motor. A new alt will cost more than 100 and you know all your e parts are good as with the tranny clutch ect.. so if you need them later you would have them.Just sayin that a 100 fix is a more reasonable way to go on such a dated bike that not many want considering a r6 can be had for not much more $$$. Give er a CIL rebuild and carry on with your body mods will still make a nice first bike to rip around on and.........well. Considering where you are on the learning curve of riding there is a good chance this bike will end up on it side or possibly worse a complete right off. PS.I didnt see piston c clips on your parts list dont re use the old ones.If you going to keep fixing get em on ordr The vid you put up about the valves is some what how I do it to get em appart,put a rag under to help hold the valve up,I just whack the socket with a hammer the keepers end up in the socket. HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL but please keep the noise down my head hurts.

In the pictuers you can see that there has been blow by of burt gasses,with the washing of the cylinders when your pet cock dicked off and floded the motor. When that happened you started your motor with no lubrication on the rings or cylinder walls that alon is justifiable cause to replace the rings,any motor with 20k + miles will bennifit from new rings preformance wise. i know they are the most expencive part of the fix but worth it,your there and do you want to get it all back together and find out your at 70% compression. They all have to come off to clean the pistons anyway. And a old ring is a great way to get in there and clean the ring lands ( groves) Pianting the whole eng as 1 piece look's like crap to me,parts that shouldn't be painted get painted and it makes it look like you never took it appart,and just gave it a CIL rebuild (CIL is a paint co.). Also your VC gasket is rubber and paint and rubber dont get along. I would paint it in pieces after the shop is done with it. Wait till the wife will be gone for hours and slip it in the oven and bake the paint on as per the instructions this give it a harder finnish and wont come off.or bead blast the top end to get the last of the paint off and leave it The bottom end, well its not going in the oven so it's up to you, Gasket kit for 170 is not bad but how much for just a top end kit. you will shit when you see what yam wants for each part. Once you get the tops of the pistons cleaned off look fo a stamp might be nothing or std if you find .020 then it first bore over but I highly doubt the motor has ever been appart. Most likely the head gasket started to leak and the PO tried to tighten it down more to stop it and striped the head bolt therads. also explains why no paint on the alt. Have fun cleaning the base gasket off it will be like a rock.take your time so not to scrach the metal,wd40 will help soften it up,keep the shop vac handy when doing the motor,and lots of new razor blades.I use olfa blades and use the flat end of the blade not the sharp part when new they are sharp enough,and you can keep breaking them back to get new. Who is doing the valve seals?

Sure why not it's just a deeper hole assembled, but once the block is off you'll see that the threads aren't that deep. Thoes pistons are actualy clean from when the fuel washed them (petcock issue's), get some picts of the skirts of the pistons up when you get the block off.Some light pring and a tap with a rubber mallet,wooden block, will help if its stuck down but go easy the fins will break easy .seting all the pistons at the same height also helps. Stuff lots of rags under/in the bottom end before you pull the block completly off the pistons this way anything the is in the cylinders dosen t get into the bottom end.But we will pull the oil pan off to clean/make sure nothing has gotten in and flush it before we put it back together. As long as the cylinders don't have scratches or pitting then a light hone is all thats needed to set the new rings so stock bore rings will work fine. Your parts list is going to look something like 1 top end gasket kit 2 ring set stock bore 3 2 heli coil kits 4 pj1 or vht eng paint

Now I know what bolt is leaking you will be happy to know that the bottm end dosent need to come appart to fix.

Feel the slack in the chain you want that between the cams, hard to put to words

clock