dt502001

Yam even supplied a rubber shield to be placed between the tank and frame for wet riding to stop the water from comming in the box,and suggest that you remove the drain cap from the air box ,after deep water crossings.So clearly they know it's aproblem adding holes can't help.

Orange peel is easy to work with just add more coats so you have lots of clear to wet sand off without cutting into the decals then buff out the clear not the end of the world just more work to make it look great.

Do yourself a favour and count the turns as close as you can on the pilot to bottoming out and then use that as a starting point for the new screw,also when off roading in the wet carry duct tape with you and cover up the holes in the air box,1 deep puddle and you will be ducked when watter gets in the air box

New member section FAQ for up loading pictuers. If you want to eliminate the oil pump then best to get a new single cable,as the cable are off set in the tube and removing 1 is not a good idea the plastic barrel inside can jam up without the pull from the oil cable/pump return spring. All I ment was remove cable from bike as a whole unit,if the pump is still there why not hook it up, its easier than pre mixing all the time and set up right you will use less oil

Yep you bet it is get one you will thank me later

Ya that sounds right ,But I would dich the idle jet and put in the screw type for ultra fine tuning as these motors run different every day depending on temp/humidity. And for starting having the idle jet tuned makes a big difference Right now I cant think of the company that makes them haveing a sometimers,basicaly its just a thumb screw that hangs down so you can fine tund the pilot setting with the carb in place and running with no tools.

With any 2t motor the bigger the cc the deeper the sound is,if your worried about a coper giving you a hard time 1st dont as said as long as it not stamped not fo road use your ok. You can get apps for a smart phone for DB testing they aren't 100% but close enough to let you know if you want to know.Alot of the tracks here now have a 98 DB rule but if your smart phone shows 98 and the tester at the track shows 99 they dont give you a hard time the first time they just tell you make sure it meets next time

If thats all you want to do then don't try and take apart the housing you willl probably end up breaking it,and there is no need to dissasemble it just to lube it. step 1 remove cable/s from bike 2 hang cable 3 feed oil from top with a cable luber of a funnel made from tape untill it runs out the bottom 4then refit to bike repeat yearly and your good to go.

E bay you should be able to find one but if you dont have any luck the bike wrecker near me has one,, the shipping and tax might drive it up near the cost of new though.But Paul would send the whole thing.how bad is yours can't you just get it welded? How if I might ask did you break it? my race bike had the same bracket on it from the factory and that bike was bought as a used race bike so god only know how many times it hit the road,but I know it hit the road quite a few time while I owned it ,high sided it both ways and they never broke

The main ground is the cable from the battery to the eng you cant be looking hard if you cant find it ,the rest of the harness will have seperate grounds atached to the frame ,for things like lights ,ign coil ect...

HAHA and you get a free sticker with the Wiseco nothing from yam.

Can't say for sure bout the carb on your bike as I dont know them all by letter numerical id but alot of carbs have a blocking plug over the mixture screw,and need to be removed to access the mix screw.I drill a 1/32 hole from the side just above( about 2-3 mm) the blanking plug and they pop out

And you thought the WEB CAMS ones were expencive LOL,even that price for wiseco valves is a bit high compared to the link I sent you,but with the international shipping fees included it might turn out cheaper.IYou can replace alot of valves for the difference though compared to what Yam wants your side.

Take a flat screw dirver and tap it on your vice quickly for about 30 seconds it will be magnitised enough

I thought you must have gotten it in sections for how fast you put them sheds up,. I haven't done it but have thought about it,take a rear axel from a FWD car and cut the spindel off weld a large plate to it and bolt it to the floor and make the whole bench rotate,that way you can drive in and out. Come on do it and make everyone super jellouse. The stand you have now works for lifting a frame but i have the same one and it is fn usless for anything with pipes that hang below the frame.

Yep that sounds great

LOL get the deep shag carpet and then do the old lady on it,,,, then it will have double meaning HAHAHAHA

Question gobshite means dumbass? I have to agree 1600 seems low to me lets hope it all works out for you,if not sue the dumb shit and get your money back,buy it as a wreck and fix it again. Hopefully the adjuster will come soon so you know where you stand,here they can take weeks to give you a answer.On a bike like that it would be months while they try and figure out what each part is worth used ,,not new as it has a deperation value now because you rode it. I fn hate insurance companys for that type of thing even if you give them the recipets for the parts they adjust it down,day old or years,I had to help a guy years ago spent 7 years collecting parts to build a bike and the ins.co tried the well theses part are so old they have less value crap,, even though the bike had just been built like yours

Just had another thought if the pick up just bolts in then you can pull the spark plugs and pass a mettal what ever pass the pick up and if it is working then it will spark. Then you can gap it after.

Little trick put a small piece of paper on the pick up with some light glue ,don't wait for it to dry hard just enough that it wont just fall off ,,of slightly bigger thickness and it it comes off when you rotate the motor then your realy close .thats how they gap alot of the pickups in cars. Put paper on pick up and have the lug on fly wheel at the hole push in pick up and lock tight rotate and done.

You need a bike lift now ,or even just a big bench to roll the bikes up on. That "shed" is almost as big as my garage nice job I take it that it was a perfab,did it come in sections or just a pile of pre cut wood?

From what I understand drewps has changed everythig to be xj cdi pick up and coils and rewired the loom to be xj between all. EDIT the 3rd wire would be the reference feed wire to both pick up coils,pick up coils are not earthed,the difference would be that the fz has only 1 mettal lug on the rotor and the xj would have 2 and the xj pick up dose double duty where the fz has 1 pick up for each time the puter needs to fire a ignition coil.Simply put the cdi would have 2 seperat circuts to control spark in the fz and the xj would have a smarter chip to know it's time to fire the other coil

With pick up (that are pulse magnetic generators like bikes have )coils the puter sends a 5v reference signal to the pick up,the pick interrupts this signal and the puter sences iit on the return wire hence the need for 2 wires,it dosent matter how its built it can be a voltage increase or decrease,thats up to the designers and the puter is desined to know but generaly speaking its a voltage increase. Hall effect pick up's work different but i have never come accross one on a bike. The biggest problem with bikes is that generaly speaking the wiring goes straight from the puter to the pickup or a foot of wier away from the pickup and hard to test for the pick up wires to be getting the full 5v to the pick up,, shure the ohms test passes for that you only need 1 strand of wire to feed current through the pickup but that 1 strand of wire cant carry 5v.Cars are easier because normaly the pick up has a plug directly at the pick up so you can do a wiggle test and see if you get voltage fluxes,or test only the windings in the pick up The gap is important though and generaly speaking it is around .028-.030",passing a hack saw blade under the pick up does the same thing as the mettal lug on the rotor Hope that helps you understand how it works Drewps

Waiting to hear? But whats the major difference NSD?

92 GP at laguna seca,what a party.Back in the days when you could get into the pits and meet the riders,got a picture some where of me sitting on rainys 89 bike in the yam factory display area.The bike was so small,and i got my dream lap on a gp bike,OK it was just a dream lap but for the few minitues i sat on the bike I could just imagine what it would be like. And just walking over the cork screw thinking how much balls it takes to go blind into a corrner like that at the speed they did,it didn't suprize me when Doohan crashed