dt502001

You know your getting older when you start thinking about things ...like........"will this last me the rest of my life or should I buy the other one "

I can tell you that the wire is a feed and get's opened when the switches are not working together,if the netural switch is grounde alone then current still flows,if the side stand switch is grounded alone then the current flow stops. Using your multy meter set in the ohms position you can check your side stand switch and netural switch. also I do belive that if you leave it disconnected (blue/yellow ) than the tci sees nothing and will fire the plugs. If you had pm'd me the 2 wireing diagrams I could have helped a long time ago,but if the xj and fj use different methods to side stand ie 1 is normal open and the other is normaly closed in the down position then.... well it wont work . As the rest of the wiring to the motor alone is plug and go I think you have found your problem.

If your not getting any raise in idle from the Idle screw then ritchen the mix,it comes down to trial and error and you wont realy be able to set it up untill your riding it.

Ya thats the thing about building a custom,all the time and money is a loss.In the owners eyes it's a thing of beauty to anyone else it's a eye sore. a few cans of flat black sprayed on at night in a dust storm would look better IMO

Way to go Ross comming right along,you got some good buddies to help you ,should have it up and done in a week or so time permitting. Having some good tools alway helps.LOL

Thanks for explaning it, I fully understand points and mechanical advance,but some may not. So if the last bit showing is the crank in the center then heat it up around that with the torches and it will pop free,as it's a taper fit now that I can see how it's assembled, as the heat is transfered to the windings it will expand faster than the crank esp because copper is a better conductor of heat than steel the heat will transfer to the steel sleve holding it in place.Have ice cold water on hand and quench it the rapid heat loss will shock it and snap it free. I have used that method many times but you need real torches OXY /Acc not pidily propane so you can heat the windings rapidly without heating the crank to much.

Ya i have been following,I am just having trouble wraping my head around how the entire thing spins with the crank to operat the points yet is not part of the crank,if it's keyed to the crank.What holds it on? if the points cam threads in the same hole that is used to pull it off,if the cam is just held in place by the threads then it must be part of the crank,surly they must have some way other than just press fitting it on to hold it in place and the only thing I see is the points cam bolt to keep it on the crank?And if it is a press fit then how do you press it on without some threads in the crank to attach a press tool to? I gues once you have it appart it might make sence.I know I would have had the torches out by now and just cut whats left off or the other method I said ealier.

The more I look at your delima I wonder,have you been trying to remove this the right way,why is the key way that far out if it's not part of the crank? The hole might have been threaded to install the windings not for removing it,or do you have a manual that says to remove it that way?

..hm SHORT MEDICAL SCHOOL EXAM. When I took the entrance exam for medical school, I was perplexed by this question: "Rearrange the letters P-N-E-S-I to spell out the part of the human body that is most useful when erect." ... Those who spelled SPINE became doctors. The rest are running our country.

"The Budget should be balanced, the Treasury should be refilled, public debt should be reduced, the arrogance of officialdom should be tempered and controlled, and the assistance to foreign lands should be curtailed, lest Rome will become bankrupt. People must again learn to work instead of living on public assistance." - Cicero , 55 BC So, evidently we've learned bugger all over the past 2,069 years.

I would take a piece of pipe and weld a nut inside it with the same thread of you slide hammer,then weld pipe to stator.The heat from welding the pipe on will shock it,as most of the heat will be in the stator and not the crank. But soaking it for a few days as drewps said wont hurt either.

Congrats always nice to see a project come to finnish and work out, did you measure to port heights to see how much the tuner changed the port timeing?

I am not religis but it's god way of population control,and fixing his mistakes, or as Ron White would say 'You can't fix stupid". some people can fix things and other should keep thier hands in thier pockets. Some people can ride motorcycles other's should stick to walking,as they have trouble running without hurting themself's,whereever it is that people find themself on the BIG list of life, with thier abilitys is of no concern of mine,if someone ask's for advice and and gets it,,,then it's up to that person to evulate thier own abilities to wether they can or can't performe the task at hand not mine! We have a generation of kids growing up who for the most part cant fix anything unless you can use a computer to do it with,give 100 14yr old's a hammer and a nail 95 of them wont get the nail in straight or all the way in, and the other 5 will hit thier finger at least once and complete the task,repete the same thing and 3 out of the 5 will have figured it out how to not hit thier fingers,and thoes are the people I am willing to teach. I think anyone who has tried to learn has at 1 point in time hurt themself,it what you do with the information you got from hurting yourself that matters

Glad you got someting out of this,,,,,, no eth =good................. eth = bad ..............happy riding Task if your going to keep riding that bike for years to come guess you better stock up on carbs/parts then????

Good you got all that somewhat sorted,,the new mix screw has the other extra o ring on the shaft,, to stop the crap from building up in there again so that dosent happen again. Give the none threaded are a good cleaning so it can seal up,some grease also

Also i didnt make that video I just pulled it from u tube so if some dip shit who can't figuer out how to do it,and hurts themself blowing up a can,,,, can sue the guy who posted it I added a disclaimer on the first post now so you guys can calm down about getting sued!

HAHA my dad used to give me 25 (Like a P) cents for allowence for gas back in the mid 70's and said "if you burn it all in a week you dont get to ride till pay day" Just saying no harm in getting the last bit of anything and if your a dumb ass and explode the can well your a dumb ass. EDIT: you also shouldnt puyt air in your own tires either they too could explode!!!

How much compression do you have with the cam out of time you could have bent a valve.Do a real compression test and report back

I know you have been banging your head over this problem but you should have stoped before it caused you to need surgery... Might I suggest you use a hammer instead of your face next time ROTFL I forgot you have a broken finger another week and you'l be fine they heal quick,just be stiff to use for awhile GWS

Ok took me amin cause you have the carb upside down,but yes it fine and thats the accelerator pump. Read my signature,,,,,,if it wasn't comming free you wouldnt have been abe to adjust your mixture anyway so it had to be freeed up ,This you should have soaked in peretrating fluid/warmed with a heat gun or what ever it was gong to take to get it freed up and turned it in befor trying to turn it out, I did tell you to count the turns from bottoming before you took it out,,,,the other bad part is now you dont know how many turns from bottom to start with. Before you go forcing the new mixture screw in take your time and get in there and clean up any mess you made with a pick and make sure there is nothing left of the old still in there.Bottom it out and start with 1 1/2 turns out this will give you a base to start with,if it has gone in 2 full turns easy with out forcing it then the carb is probably ok.Make sure you put it back in the right order oring washer spring washer mix screw. Get the bike running again before you do any more work.It might be a bitch to start and you want to get the carb close to right so you dont confuse yourself with a bike that wont start after rebuilding the head. If the bike wont start at 1.5 turns then keep turning it out 1 /4 a turn untill you get it to start but dont go more that 3 full turns.Then you will have to play with the mixture untill you get it so the bike pulls clean and that I cant tell you where to set it.

Cynic you dont need to put a 100 psi in the can just a shot of air,and new cans have about 90psi.but if you dont feel comfortable dont do it or look up how to refill a small propane tank at home. It works on old can of paint that have been sitting around too,better to use up that then send it to a land fill. I dont get why everything is so expencive your side but here you can pick up a small 2 gallon compressor for 50 bucks so given the exchange that what 25 -30 pounds? wont run a Impact gun none stop but will do anything needed for bike repairs or painting.I couldn't live without a compressor, and considering they last for decaded what ever the cost ove time its a cheap investment to make life easier.

Any luck yet?

Most likey the older 1 wont work becaust the dash on your bike is also the display for codes when you have faults in the injection system. find the part number for your dash and what years they changed the part number then thoes from x year to x year will be the years that will work direct hook up.

If you guys have acess to a welder you can make a manual tensioner out of a bolt and nut and a plate of steel, make a plate the same as the tensioner and drill a hole in the middle weld the nut to it and then use a bolt and another nut to set the tension and lock the nut dow to keep it from loosing,option 2 is to us a 1/2 thick piece of steel and tap threads into it.

cam chain tensioner is not holding pressure on the chain,slipper guied is worn out,chain is streched beyond the tensioner ability to hold pressure