jimmy

Pick up one of these http://api.viglink.c..._13341278475061 They're cheap and they work Then once you have tried another new bulb, check the continuity of the wires using the diaghram in the manual to trace the correct colours and junctions etc. My son has a 1992 model sr125 and the lights have a separate on/off switch. This is located just above the 'leccy start switch

Dont have a problem posting pics in a thread, however when I try to upload to the garage, it times out and "ie cannot display this webpage"

I think the fact I'm replacing a 20 year old part with another of the same age may be the reason they're failing. As you say, I have went through the whole harness a number of times and the reg/rec is working fine. Cheers for the speedshop info, I will give him a shout

I think its the Rory Gallagher festival this time o' year. The trad music is the Bank holiday weekend at the start of August. We may be coming over this year, so will gie ye a shout indeed

....maybe should have said winding, oh well Furryboots in Donegal I visit Ballyshannon every other year for the Trad music festival (I know its on every year, but I can only afford every 2nd year). I'm usually found in macs bar, Last time I went, I came in from the Donegal side. Some nice roads there too

Blackhat Some would say any road out Round my bit there are a few decent run outs over the hills, down into Largs and back up to Gourock, but for a good long run its a ferry over to Dunoon then the long windy roads around Argyll

My boys 1992 sr125 was doing the same thing The choke return is a common fault and the way (bodge) he got round it was by wrapping an elastic band around the fueltap. When he pulls the choke out he stretches the elastic band over and round the choke. This saves him riding along holding onto the choke. He has also had issues with the bikes running and losing power. After checking everything we traced it to the CDIunit being on he way out. As drewpy says, I checked the timing,ensuring the advance mechanism wasn't sticking, valve clearances and camchain tensioner. I also replaced the plug, cap lead and coil. This seems to have helped a lot

If you've not done it yet, try using a length of lightweight chain. This is a hellova lot easier to remove than nuts and bolts, gravel etc. Heres a link to an article on RealClassic http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=95548d06b1f9b524a1f5ab6f4eac193f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers5.boardhost.com%2Fclassicbikemart%2Fthread%2F1334732247.html&v=1&libid=1334751802379&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.realclassic.co.uk%2Ftechfiles%2Fpetrol_tank_cleaning_and_rust_removal.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers5.boardhost.com%2Fclassicbikemart%2Findex.html%3F&title=RealClassic.co.uk%20Messages&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.realclassic.co.uk%2Ftechfiles%2Fpetrol_tank_cleaning_and_rust_removal.html&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13347518085431 Sorry if posting links to other sites is verboten

Apologies mate Some twat stole my T140 back in 89 and I still get bluddy angry when I think about it

Just new to the forum, but for what its worth, I agree. I post on a couple of classic bike forums (forii?) and get really engrossed in the masterclass/how to sections. Even if its nowt to with the bikes I own its still interesting to read about folks solutions to problems..."Every days' a school day" as they say

bb Cant help with the part numbers, but looking at the manual covering the sr125 from 82-03 it appears they all use the same type, so either pick up a set from fleabay, or from a Yam dealer

up.yours No offence taken mate, I have very thick skin, anyway Red or Dead MRR If you're truly envious, I'll do you a favour and give you a straight swap for the T120 Bonnie on your list. :eusa_whistle: (sits down and prepares for a long wait)

Heres a pic of my current ride. Its a 1997 xjr 1200 and this is my boys 1992 sr125

Afternoon folks My son rides an SR125, 1992 model. He has owned it for about a year now and it seems relatively incident free, with the exception of the CDI Unit. I had to replace this unit about six months ago, after a lot of head scratching and testing of parts I bit the bullet and replaced the CDI. ..Problem solved! A couple of weeks ago he started complaining the bike wasnt running right and had no power. I took it a run and sure enough the bike would struggle under load (the engine, not me). There was also an occasional clatter from the top end. Valve clearances and cam chain checked and adjusted. Plug, cap and lead replaced to no avail. He purchased another CDI from ebay and hey presto, the bike is running fine again, He says it has an occasional backfire, but apart from that its fine. Anyway the questions are 1/ By replacing a 20 year old part with another 20 year old part, this is going to keep happening so... Doeas the newer CDIs work on the older model. I know the pin connections are different but if I just solder on new connections will it work? 2/ and if not, Is it possible to crack open these units and get them repaired from an electronics guy Thanks for any help here jimmy

Morning folks I have discovered the forum whilst searching for a solution to a wee problem with my boys 1992 sr125. I will post the issue in the tech section. I've been riding bikes since 1981, and currently I ride a 1997 xjr1200 in Deep Red. I have owned it for just over a year and consider myself lucky to still have my licence. Being used to old Brit bikes, it has been an eyeopener getting used to a very responsive throttle. Anyway I'm looking forward to checking the forum and posting here and there