jimmy

Looking good mate. Hows the rear brake on it, looks like it need new shoes

Grouch Are they coughing up for the repair

Put the bike on it's centre stand and grip the wheel at opposite ends move it sideways to see if there is any movement. To replace the bearings, remove the wheel, unbolt the sprocket and disk. Once they are removed check to see if there are any circlips holding the bearings/dust covers in place. Remove them if necessary and placing the wheel on a flat surface and using a drift (I have used an extension piece from a socket set) put it through one bearing and knock out the opposite one from the inside. Once thats done turn the wheel over and knock out the other one. Look out for any spacers within the wheel hub and remember to refit. If you stick the new bearings in the freezer overnight, it will make it slightly easier to refit. To fit the new bearing, place it squarely on the opening and using either a suitable sized socket, or the old bearing, gently tap the new bearing into place, ensuring it stays square will ease the fit. I use a clockface method i.e 12-6-9-3. Keep tapping it in until it hits home (there will be a stop).Turn the wheel over and remembering to fit any spacer fit the other bearing in the same way. I've probably made it sound harder than it is, and it should only take between 1 and 2 hours of your time. You probably wont need it but I take photos of each step and place all components in order to help the rebuild. Whilst the wheel is off, have a look at the brake pads and fit new ones if necessary.

If it's pitted, maybe you can get a firm to use the spray metal technique....anyway heres a fooked crank

Dont know if this helps, sparky, but my boy sat his cbt on a 50cc auto, then rode his 50cc geared bike until he was 17 then went onto a 125cc with no legal issues. It was 3 years ago so not sure if the regs have changed

Yes, the lamp should just pull out. The engine should have a sight glass on it so no dipstick required

No doubt a very pleasant surprise there mate. I'm off to eat my hat...salt and vinegar or salt and sauce

Yip Jimmy, Gourock, Scotland Help out if I can

Talking of Greenock, as a yoof, I went to James Watt college and one dinner time I set off on my bike, a Triumph Bonneville (it was day release from my work so I was earning)into the town centre, anyway passing by the bus terminus there was a group of lasses standing so I'm busy looking at them, looking at me, when out of the corner of my eye I saw the car in fronts brake lights coming on. Slammed on mine and down I went amid all the bus diesel......I can still hear them laughing

Just a nut screwed on the indicator stem, mate, It'll be a piece of piss

Cheers Ben If I remember correctly you will need to disconnect the indicators, but its only one or two wires. I think the headlamp rim is held on with 2 allen bolts and once you remove them the rim will come off. Inside there is a collection of wires but the indicator wires are the only ones needing separated (although dont quote me on this, I'm working with a memory that hardly remembers what I had for last nights tea)

The problem I have found is that as soon as a bike is classed as classic, whether Brit, Italian, Japanese or what, it then becomes as dear as fek and soon get out of reach of the common biker.

Bearing in mind your bike is 20 years old and will not have had the maintenance the training schools bike have. 1st gear is just for pulling away on and if you are going at anything over slow walking pace the bike will jerk if you drop back down to 1st gear. Wait till you get out on the road with it and you'll settle in to its style. Thinking back I remember fitting a new clutch cable almost right away as the boy was complaining about jerky action and he had stalled it a few times. New cable, problem solved Yea I'm working on my auld Speedtwin at the minute and have just discovered a load of emulsified oil in the outer gearbox casing. Hopefully a good clean out and a flushing oil will help it, if not it will be a gearbox strip down

Good advice there Grouch

Sorry Grouch But when you give a garage a fix it list including New horn New electric start Bash plate attaching Stand tightening Sidelight bulb replacing/ fixing and then state Also I have made it clear top then that I will not be taken for a fool. It sort of contradicts itself. Once again sorry mate, I'll go for £575 + vat

Welcome Ben Great wee bikes. My son just sold his after riding in all weathers for the last 2 years. It looked a bit tired but a few hours of cleaning and it came up looking good. He sold it to a dealer and only made a £50 loss from his buying price, so a very desireable bike for the learner. Anyway the bike went well and only 1 major(ish) issue in that the CDI failed about a year ago, but a replacement was sourced for about £30 and no issues since. A small issue was the petrol tap. If he left it switched on in the garage, there would be a distinct smell of petrol the next day. May just have been his bike, but be aware. Another small issue was the choke and its reluctance to stay on. Yours will be the same type with a pull bar set up. If yours shows the same flaw (seemingly it is a common thing), the simple way to fix it is by stretching a thick elastic band between the choke lever and the petrol tap. The friction of the band is enough to hold the choke lever in place. Anything I can help with, and I'm sure it's the same with all the others on here, we will be more than happy to help if possible. Safe riding

With some insurance companies, a bike is eligible for classic ins at 15yrs old. Anyway, a poster on a classic bike forum I frequent has a signature line that states "just being old does not make it a Classic".

Bob Marley, Black Sabbath, Steve Earle, or you could try the Gogol Bordellos, The Pogues or the Sawdoctors

Grouch Hope I'm wrong, but I would estimate double your thoughts

Well then Gordo, share the smiles and post some pics mate

Just back from the garage. It was showing 40bhp on their rolling road, so a wee restriction later and it's now down to 33. They also bought his 91 sr125 for £300 + supply and fit of the restrictor kit (quoted at £150 before the bike deal) so he's very happy all in although he doesn't know I'll be claiming the £300 in lieu of next years insurance, so not such a popular dad after all

If you need a new disk, pads and bearings, you are as well doing it yourself as the wheel will be off anyway. Remove the wheel, unbolt the disk and with the wheel on a workbench (or kitchen stool) use an old extension bar from a socket set, put it through one bearing until it hits the bearing on the other side of the hub. Then hit the bar with a mallet, moving it round the bearing, and it will pop out. Turn the wheel the other way up and repeat with that bearing. When replacing the new bearing, place it on the housing, and by sitting the OLD bearing on top ot the new one, start tapping it into the housing ensuring you move round the bearing to keep it straight. Repeat on the other side and the jobs a good un* Fit new disk and pads, replace wheel and you have saved around £100 in labour * Of course if you have a press or vice, you can press the bearing in. Grouch, If you must go to the shop ask to sit in and watch the guys at work, it will give you an idea of how to do the jobs in the future

My eldest has turned 19 today, so gets to unwrap his present and here it is in all its glory

At last........I was once branded an insult to the Art World, with my inability to draw............No Longer. Thanks for posting

As above, contact the Insurance company