jimmy

do you want to quote or not? That is the question

Have just been outside to start her up -started on full choke, dropped down to half and instantly died.. Are you cutting it down to half choke, if so just leave it for a few minutes or until the engine starts to race. I don't use my bike much in the cold weather, but when I do I will leave the choke on for about the first 1 - 1.5 miles

It's been cold of late, so start on full choke and leave it for a couple of minutes. If you hear the bike start to rev then gently close the choke off as bit

Right, we now know it will run. Problem is fuel is not getting through the carbs. The Easy Start allowed it to fire up, but with no fuel getting through it can't rev cleanly or pull away. You'll need to move the spring clamp further up towards the end of the pipe, or get a jubilee clip onto that pipe so no fuel is leaking. But before doing so take the pipe off the carb, fold it over and clamp it shut. Now start cranking the bike over whilst spraying your carb cleaner into the petrol intake (hence the reason you clamped your petrol pipe.) This will pull the cleaner through the carb and hopefully clear any debris that has blocked any airways or jets So if that doesn't work, you need to think when fitting the throttle cable did you interfere with the carb at all. Looking at the pic, it seems the throttle cable fits into the throttle housing on the end of the carb, so there should have been no reason to touch the carb.

Probably added too much. Bearing in mind normal operation is a fuel/air spray, so just a little is all thats needed. So the fuel pump works....Good Now take the fuel line off at the carb and crank it over til fuel come out the loose end then you know there are no kinks and then it's down to the carb Have you tried the easy start yet

Totally agree that this should never happen with a straight cable change, at least not the original issue of no spark and then your '3 white wire issues' Back to the cable.....When you twist the throttle, does it twist freely and return with a snap shut motion. If you have the air filters removed, can you access the slides and if so does the throttle body slide up and down freely. Did you try spraying Easy Start into the back of the carb whilst cranking the bike over Try loosening the float bowl slightly so that fuel spills out between the gasket, that way you'll know if fuel is getting into the carb

The "fut fut" noise will be the fuel pump priming. Were the plugs wet, did they stink of petrol? Just pour a small amount down each plug hole fit the plugs right away and try and fire it up Remove the air filters (if fitted) and try spraying some easy start into the rear of the carbs as you try to start it

I had one at an indicated 92mph once.....In fairness it was in the back of my mates transit

I'll swap you for a Pro Membership. That way you can put your adds in the right place in future

So 10 days since the last reply....do we have an update

Must be some shit garages round your way. Prior to buying a compressor from Lidl, I would always use a garage compressor to pop a tyre...Never failed at any of the garages

Check out "The Green Spark Plug Co" . Great kit at great prices. No connection to me other than a satisfied customer over the years http://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-j1-cable-splicer-for-7mm-ht-cable.html

Lovely bike mate. I had a 1200 for a few years and still regret selling (needs must at the time). Having went from an auld parallel twin Triumph to an xjr required an immediate change of mindset. I could have lost my licence (+ job) at least 3 times on the way up the road from Telford, by giving it a handfull of throttle, which I needed to do on the Bonnie. Took me a while to get used to, but once I kept my speeds to a licence saving limit I thoroughly enjoyed it. The xjr forum is pretty good and is worth a visit.

Yea, as long as you can turn the engine over. Top Tip:- Do NOT touch the engine with any body part when cranking it over. If it does spark, you won't need to see it, you WILL feel it

Just changing a cable on it's own should not eliminate a spark unless as everyone above has stated you have dislodged a wire somewhere, so another thorough check needs to be done on all connections However on the miniscule chance that you have been grouched, and the coil has packed in at the same time as the cable change, then try the following. Unscrew the plug cap from the HT Lead and kick the bike over with the ignition on. Hold the HT Lead about 1/4" from the cooling fins and see if any sparks jump the gap. If so it is either the cap or the plug. If not, the you'll need to check if the coil is the type with the HT Lead that screws in. If so then unscrew then the HT from the coil and hold the lead about 1/4" from the coil, kick the bike and see if the spark jumps the gap....If so new HT Lead, if not, then if you have a manual and a multi-meter then you need to follow the testing instructions in the manual

Yes, that could cause sticky brakes

Went to rat shit once they started charging for their service. If you didn't pay you now get plagued with shit whenever you log on. I never paid so will probably get round to copying all my pics from it and close down my account

In my recollection these ones cannot be repaired as they are encapsulated in resin (When I say can't, I mean they can but all the resin needs removed and the companies I enquired with were not interested) I'm surprised they are hard to find. When I was looking for one for my boys bike (on 2 separate occasions) they were easy enough to get from ebay, but as I say I was replacing a 20yr old part with another of the same age hence the reason for me having to buy 2 over his 2 yr ownership Edit// It would appear you are right enough regarding their availability, maybe they have just run out. This company selling this pick up are breaking a '98 model bike so maybe they still have the CDI http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-SR125-98-IGNITION-PICK-UP-D368-/131472269485?hash=item1e9c5ba0ad:m:m7HLKdmCZa6L1gSXT_hthog

Ahhh Morecambe in the rain....Takes me back

You should have made the allowances and left in plenty of time, as above No Con, Your Fault.....Tough Love mate, but thats how it is

The state of our roads, I would stick to shocks and at least give my back a fighting chance

Well, go down the route of RSPCA, an unfit person to keep dogs....Oh and here's my auld dog and cat "reacting naturally"

If Buddhism is to be believed you must have been Hitler or Attila the Hun etc in a previous life. Seriously if you are concerned about his dogs being out of control, then sect 3 of the dangerous dogs act 1991 covers that, especially as no doubt the dog tried to attack you when you rescued your cat

I have the same routine as Tommy. I'll give the bike a good clean, run the carbs dry and I'll connect the battery up to the charger. Never had an issue with fuel left in the tank

There are two types with different multi plug connectors (from memory the early models have a single 4 plug connector, whilst the later ones have a 4 plug and a 2 plug, so just make sure you have right one.) Bearing in mind that buying a 2nd hand one is just replacing a 20yr old part with another 20yr old part. Once again from memory I think the change was in 2002 models onwards* Have you checked all connections as losing power going over a bump seems like a loose wire. The CDIs for that model are fully encapsulated in resin so would be insulated from vibration, bumps etc * As stated it is from memory so the exact details may be different but it is definitely two different multi plugs