jimmy

Cheers for the review, now all we need is pics

Drewps Did you make this up and if so how does it work. Thinking of a new chain and sprocket set and if so will be looking for a chain oiler

The original bars have a 4" - 5" rise? If so are you using bar risers or are the bars bolting straight onto the yokes. They should fit but may have some spare cable needing routed

Ok, that makes it clear. I knew about suck squeeze bang blow, and how 2 smokes compress that, but I assumed the lower crankcases were similar. I live and learn

Sorry to be flogging a dead horse here, but no one mentioned gearbox. Yer man asked how to get fuel out the crankcase. Now as I said earlier I know fek all about 2 smokes but I assume removing oil/fuel from the crankcase is the same as on a 4 stroke. If not then apologies for my lack of knowledge

I know next to bugger all about 2 smokes, but he was asking about draining the fuel that has leaked into the crankcase so I am assuming that it is the tank draining directly into the c/case through the carbs then down through the head and barrels so unburnt. But as I say I know hewhaw about the smokers

Just open the drain plug. Out will come the oil / petrol mixture. Refill with new oil

I would suggest that removing the springs is unnecessary. Both are equal length and weight so will have the same displacement on either leg and depending how quick each spring gets pulled out will affect how much oil is pulled out with it. Minimal I know, but easier imo to leave them in

Indeed Slice. Once you've done the business with the 'seal mate' put the bike on centre stand, or if not available, make sure it is upright so equal pressure on each leg then remove the top fork nuts and measure the levels inside

and another one hit wonder strikes again

Hey Tommy There is a dedicated xjr forum with a lot of model specific knowledge. I used it quite a bit when I had my 1200

Whats your commute Grouch? A couple of miles each way with lights on will not be enough to top up the battery Was the replacement battery the correct one with the same Amp Hrs as the auld one Have you got a multi meter, if so test the battery it should read about 13v (assuming it is a 12v system) and then start the bike up. It should rise to about 14v If there is no multi meter, then fire the bike up put the lights on and raise the revs, you should see the light get brighter The above will give you an indicator whether the battery or the alternator is goosed Kind of basic advice, but enough to get started with

Hit a Deer, fek me. Ive been riding bikes since 1980 and the nearest animal strike was an Owl that dive bombed me one evening Anyway, Ideally a chain and sprocket set should be bought together, so the worn sprockets do not prematurely wear the new chain. But if the bike is only a year old and probably 3-5k miles eh, and you say the sprockets are perfect then you will get away with just fitting a new chain. You dont have much (anything) in your profile so I'm guessing its a 125, if so it'll probably have a split link on it which makes it a piece of piss to swap over. Remove the split link on the auld chain and join your new chain to it then just pull it through so your new chain is in position. Discard the auld chain and split link, fit the new link with the closed end facing the direction of travel, adjust the slack, oil it up and away you go

I couldn't peel myself away

Fuel tank breather blocked?

That's what I used on my boys SR a few years ago. Worked well

A cheeky wee game of golf as well, well done Tommy

Brilliant Bud, safe riding and that'll eat up the miles on next years Scottish Tour

Brings a new meaning to that auld scottish phrase "Yer arse in parsley"

Anything about having a go at oregano in it

C'mon Tommy........We need our fix of pix

Brilliant mate. Enjoy the ride and have a safe trip. As I said before, I travelled overnight on the National Express coach (now there was a collection of strange folk) down to Birmingham where my mate picked me up at about 5am and drove me to Telford to pick up my xjr1200. He had already gave it a good going over so I just needed to see if I liked the look and feel...I did, so deal done I set off up the road. After a few miles I moved down the slip road onto the m4/m5? had a look to see it was safe then wound on the throttle to overtake a line of cars. After a bar gripping lunge forward I glanced down at the speedo it was nudging 120 and still climbing. 2 or 3 times more on the trip home I could have easily lost my licence (and liberty) by just winding it on to overtake....As I say enjoy the trip but ride safe. Probably the only Jap bike I have regretted selling

I thought he told us on the last sentence of his post

Brilliant mate. I had the 1200 for a few years. Probably the only Jap bike I have regretted get rid off. It also took me about 3 months to get used to the speed and acceleration so I could keep it within licence saving limits. In saying that I was used to an auld 70s twin where you had to go wide open to get some good use of it, so you should be fine.....Oh wait

As above. Loosen both bottom bolts. As well as giving "the bars a wiggle", sit on the bike, pull on the front brake and bounce the forks up and down. This will centre everything again. When thats done, pop into the new members section and post an intro*....You'll get a load more help * Unless of course you have no intention to keep posting once this issue is sorted