jimmy

Heading to Perth, then up the A9.....A82 a better road by bike, but..... Just leaving now, I may be a while as someone once almost said

I'm setting off tomorrow to do a chunk of this....Unfortunately it's by car. I have to go up to Dounreay for a two hr presentation.....7 and a half hour journey and the same back for a fekking two hour presentation

I kidny put up with that pain

Fire is your friend..........

Can you post a video that way we can see the issue. Post it direct or via a link to the Tube

You can be a cnut at times..... Same model xs250cw, different year (1979), but "it started and ran perfectly." I never experienced that so, no it doesn't bring back memories Anyway best of luck with the restoration

Don What I meant was let the bike run with the fuel cap on until the bike starts to bog down, then release the cap whilst the engine is running. This will indicate whether the vent in the cap is blocked. I would ride round the block a few times as it's not a good idea to run an air cooled engine in the stationary position

My 79 xs1100 had vacuum carbs so no on/off. Maybe the US Model was different, or maybe some previous owner changed them. Anyway reading your post when you stated that "Another thing I did was fill the fuel tank to brim almost, I read that's a no no. When I finally turned off my bike I heard pressurized hissing sound coming from cap, I opened then shut it. The sound went away" tells me that tank breather is blocked. You will need to clean out the breather hole in the cap Try running the bike again and when it starts to bog down open and close the petrol cap and see if that clears it.

As you say your auld man was in a hurry to complete. He may have missed something important. I would take loads of pictures before and during the strip down then rebuilt it in tribute to your auld man

I had a 79 xs1100. Certainly the UK models did NOT have a hydraulic clutch and was air cooled so no radiator. If you are going to drain the tank you'll need to put the tap on 'prime' as they are vacuumed taps, but I see no reason to drain the tank if it is only for a few months. I would clamp the fuel hose and run the engine until the carbs empty. No need to drain the brake lines No need to drain the engine oil or the shaft trans fluids, but a good idea to replace these once you put it back on the road (if this has not been done recently) Finally I would remove the battery and stick it on an Optimate or other type of maintainer I haven't run a bike over the winter for a number of years and have never felt the need to drain the tank....even with this ethanol shit fuel, and when I go to fire my bike up in the summer the fuel in the tank fills the carbs and the bike fires easily once the carbs are filled

Haha, same thing with me back in the day. We used to go on a tea run to the airport (you could do that then) and ready to come home my xs didn't start....of course it fekkin didn't.....anyway I got the boys to give me a push and same as Tommy after a few hot and bothered pushes I noticed the kill switch was off...oops "One more try lads I called"and it started right away

JSU 280T Burn in the Firepits of Hell you B'stard

It would be a shame to break it into parts, but thats probably the best way to get some of your ££££s back. Unfortunately as you never finished it you are unlikely to recoup your costs, but that is the way of restoring auld bikes. Having done one or two auld Brit Bikes in the past I am happy to break even (not counting the time and effort I put in....I did it for the love not the money )

Yeaaa Tommy is our designated leccy guru now

Ooops, just saw that, apologies to Morseman Note to self, read the whole thread before trying to be a smartarse

Lucky that he posted on a Yamaha forum then eh

The problem as I see it, is over 6 years you've been riding you will have picked up a load of bad habits............we all have them, but as we are through our test then no worries for us. I believe you should take a few lessons to iron these out. So what about changing down too many gears thus causing the engine braking to lock the wheel up

The original poster states they are on their 6th CBT, so how long does a CBT last Without knowing too much about your riding experience, I would suggest you are dropping down too many gears at the one time causing the rear wheel to start locking up

As most of us are now aware, it is becoming more and more difficult to post pictures. Photobucket and tiny pics are not playing any more (unless you sign up to their payment scheme). I found this on other forums as well. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth it was suggested that postimg.org was the way to go. I tried this on two other forums/messageboards and it seems to work well, so I thought I would suggest it for here. Go to Postimg.org Sign up with email click on upload (set the size of picture required, I chose 800 x 600 15" monitor Once in copy the link for 'hotlink for foums' If you remove the letter 's' from the two https codes, you'll get and away you go

I have started using postimg.org on other forums and it works well enough It seems to work here as well

Thanks for the inundated advice, but no requirement now. I got access to a flanging machine, so its done now

at all, c'mon keep with the stereotype

I'm looking for contact details of fabricators for a set of hangers for rearsets. They have an offset in them so not as simple as cutting them out a bit of alloy....or is it?

Good result

Ride safe lads and enjoy