jimmy

Thanks, I appreciate the effort you put in to make this happen

and it appears to have removed random 's' from your post ?

Just in from work and having a catch up on the forum. First thing happening is a screen like this and even after clicking 'accept recommended settings' it comes back every time I open a new page......Help please

Just reading Drewps post and had a thought. On the carb inlet manifold there should be rubber bungs which are removed to fit vacuum gauges??? If so try removing one of them and spraying the easy start in the cutting out the carb altogether. That would definitely confirm carb issue Not sure if this can be done, but if so.......... Or try this

+1 for that. Have you tried new plugs. Although dry, do the old ones stink of fuel or not. Do you have pics

I bought myself a new helmet today. I have been running around with a ROOF Boxer for longer than I care to remember but it feels a bit worn out now. After looking around online for a while I settled on the BELL 5oo Custom open face. I am well aware that open face lids are not everyones cup of tea but I have worn them since 1981 and cannot get on with a full face lid. My Boxer was a flip front and I spent more time with the chin guard in the up position that I ended up removing it. Anyway to the review. J&S had this up for £150 allegedly down from £170 so within my price range and the look I wanted, I headed off to Glasgow today to try it on. First fit and the lid just felt right. A good snug, but comfortable fit around my forehead and it felt very lightweight. No hesitation, I gave the guy my money, stuck my auld lid in the bag they gave me and set off the long way home on my bike to give it a road test. As you would expect with an open face, there was a great field of vision but I also felt that it was a very quiet lid. I always wear ear plugs, but even with them in there was very little wind noise. So that's that, I would recommend it and may even consider the full face version in the future (as much as I don't like them, I do own a couple of full face lids. I use them depending on my journey and weather conditions) Positives:- Reasonably priced, good fit, great vision and reduced road noise Negatives:- As a spotty yoof, it was always the auld cnuts that wore Bell helmets, so I am now officially an auld cnut.

Lumps of inanimate metal/plastic to be ever referred to as the/this/that bike, but hey that's just me

....and the battery, remove the battery

Does Postimage.org help at all

Bootifool as some auld turkey used to say

Well done mate. It's great when the OP comes back with an outcome

Very rare indeed bud, I can't see f..k all

Cheers Drewps I have trawled through vehicle wiring Products website and filled a basket, but not purchased yet as I still have a decision on colours (see last paragraph). The issue I have is I will still need some female spades for the rectifier so that would be two crimpers I intend taking my time and do it correctly, but am loathe to pay out good money for a tool I plan to only use once (tight jock fuck, I know). I'm going to use the japanese 3.9mm bullets instead of lucas 4.6, as my mate has a crimper for the 3.9mm bullets so I can get that, and whilst I haven't asked, he will probably have the proper spade crimper as well. Anyway, now I have got over the initial rage and shock, I am kinda looking forward to doing this and learning a new skill. I have stripped the sheathing off and will pin it to a board with all wires labelled so I can copy with new wires. I will be ordering 2mm/sq 25a cable with the 28 strands instead of the 14 strand wire the PO used so should be better quality The issue with this bike is that there has been a number of alterations/upgrades (6v - 12v conversion, EI fitted, Removal of distributor, etc) so I cannot make a loom direct from the manual. My only concern at this time is do I lift the colours from the wiring diagram, or just copy the colours from the existing one

Indeed matey. I'll need a crash course in electrickery to make a new loom

Well I made a resolution to get my auld 59 Speedtwin on the road this year. I initially set it up in the style of a Cafe Racer (love the look, but can't afford a Triton). I purchased a set of rear sets and made up the hangers and linkages. I also adapted a seat from a modern Triumph before fabricating a bump seat. Finally I fitted a set of clip ons. I then finished all the wee jobs I needed to get it on the road and about a month ago I took it out for it's first shakedown ride. There were more false neutrals than a Switzerland v Sweden footie game and the clutch was very stiff It was also highly uncomfortable. Back to the false neutral, my belief was that the linkage set up was too loose, added to my inexperience in right hand gear changes, so I removed the rear sets and fitted a standard shifter and this seemed to cure it. I also stripped and adjusted the clutch so that lightened up a good bit. My next run was a 20 mile affair up through some country back roads and stopped for a few pics I went down a pot hole and it popped a fork seal, so last week I headed off to deepest darkest Fife to my nearest 'specialist' dealer and picked up a set of seals and holders and fitted them. I was also struggling with the clip ons so I removed them to fit a set of 'western' style bars, as well as 2 new tyres. Below is a mock up with the bars and a later style T140 tank sitting on it (food for thought for me) I also had to order a longer brake cable and went to fit that yesterday when disaster struck; The cable inner was too long so I'll need to fix that (well my mate will) and then when refitting the rear brake light switch, the spring flew out my fingers taking the small operating pin with it, never to be found again.....now the disaster part. I fitted a new twist grip and switched on the ignition to check the tickover. The ammeter immediately fell to zero. I switched it off and on again with the same result. I stood looking at it, puzzled for a few seconds and then noticed a smell of burning. The -ve terminal wire was melting. I switched the ignition off, but noticed the brake light stayed on. Luckily the battery terminals are spades so I quickly pulled them off. I removed the headlamp and saw that the corresponding wire from the battery had melted in there as well So today I stripped the wiring loom off the bike and removed all sheathing, in prep for building a now harness Auld bikes.....You can keep them, I should have bought a Yamaha

Unfortunately for us West Coasters John, is that we almost have to do Loch Lomond to get anywhere. Well I'm a mile from the ferry terminal in Gourock so I can go straight to Dunoon and explore that way

Well done matey. Great run up there. The tip I gave my boy about filtering was even if he sees me getting through a gap, wait until he is happy before he goes for it, oh and always, always be alert for the fuckwit in the car who tries to close gaps to prevent you getting through

Hey Drewps I realise you have sorted your bike, but this thread http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/225198/2/t140-driveside-roller-bearing reminded me of your query. Page 2 especially gives a lot of details about bearings, most of which I did not know, so it may be useful to some

Hehehe

Indeed matey, went to pick up a £6 part and left a further £50 lighter

To your area John, 206 miles round trip to Kennoway to pick up a set of £6 fork seals for my auld bike.....Turns out once I'm there I "remembered" I needed other stuff haha. Not long back and the weather stayed dry both ways so a good day out. Nearly cost me a fortune tho' as I stopped off at Triumph Glasgow looking for a cam cover gasket and nearly walked out with a Thruxton. Lucky the parts man arrived back before the salesman got his hooks into me. The same thing almost happened before only this time the wife wasn't there to save me. Luckily the sensible head was on

photos would be good

This post from another forum may help. It is a few years old so some of it may be out of date http://www.triumphrat.net/vintage-technical-tips-and-tricks/338745-how-to-register-imported-bike-built-from-parts-but-with-no-paperwork-uk.html

Welcome to the nuthouse mate. If you say your coils are fine, then a few more checks. Can the HT lead be removed from the coil, if so unplug it and hold it about 6mm (or closer) from the coil plug socket and turn the engine over....is there a spark jumping from the coil, if no, then you need to check the coils again If yes, then refit the HT cable and remove the spark plug cap from the other end, ensure a little wire is bared and hold it close to the spark plug and crank the engine. Does it spark, if no then replace the leads If yes, then refit the spark plug cap, fit a spare plug into the cap and hold it against the head, crank the engine. Does it spark, if no then replace the plug cap, if yes the consider changing the plugs. Remember just because it is new plugs does not mean they are good After a few cranks remove the plugs, are they wet? My boy had an issue with his 535 a few years ago. Sometimes it would fire up sometimes not. After a lot of searching I traced it to a broken black (earth) wire in the harness. This wire was coming from the starter switch. I was lucky in that it was just where the harness comes through at the steering head. This wire was getting stretched each time the bars were moved and eventually it split. So if he tried to start the bike with the bars tuned to the left, no spark. If facing forwards or to the right it would fire up. Once found I added a new length of wire and he has had no issues since

That was almost my saying when I finished playing rugby....."The older I get, the better I was"