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thomasrolewis

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Everything posted by thomasrolewis

  1. I already have new pads, I'll just clean the piston with wirewool. The seals are £5 on ebay. I don't really want to have to replace the whole caliper as it's pretty expensive. I guess I'll see when I have cleaned it up. If it looks bad still 'll try for a replacement from a breaker!
  2. Hello Guys, How's everyone? So before being able to ride my bike next week I decided that I will change the brake pads on my bike - well, wasn't I in for a treat. I mentioned in a post a while back that my caliper was stuck on my disk. Well I got it off and was welcomed with my brake pads crumbling off and what looks like nearly 20 years of crap (at this point I decided to redo my whole brake section.) After struggling with getting the pin out, pads off and piston out due to corrosion - I decided that I should consult you guys too see what is best. Obviously it needs a bloody good clean, (good, cheap methods? WD40? Boil?) and I need new seals (It was missing one!?!?!) Also, probably a new piston too! I have to rush off, but I will be back later. I will attach some pictures for you to look at. I might not be able to get the seals and piston before next wednesday so I want to get it cleaned up ready for them. Any suggestions on this would be great.
  3. I have no idea how the previous owner felt safe on this bike. I'll try and sort the brakes, I should wait for my new pads first though I think. Could be that one of the pistons has been pushed out way more than the other. Causing it to stick as well as wear unevenly I guess.
  4. Well I just watched a video on youtube, the guy was just like "oh, it's not coming off. I'll just bleed it a little." And then it came off. Yeah, I'm guessing mine needs a big ass clean, because it looks like it hasn't been done for a long while. I'll order some new pads and try to get it off to clean it tomorrow. Bleeding makes sense as it releases pressure, right? How would you do it?
  5. Nevermind, I didn't realize you could open the bleed valve a bit to help it come off.
  6. Hey guys, So I tried to take my front calliper off today, followed all the steps in the manual but to no joy. When I undo the bolts and slacken the pad retaining bolts the calliper is meant to "slide" off. Well, mine doesn't. I think the pads are sticking or something. Anyway, I have no idea what to do now. Hit it with a hammar? Until I get it off I can't do anything though. What's your advice? Thanks.
  7. Great, I'll get some of that this weekend then! Once the oil and air is done I only really need to do the idle speed and fix the indicator then she's ready to go. Thanks for the replies.
  8. Great, what do you think to this?
  9. Hey guys, Just wondering what the best oil for my SR 125 is. Haynes says 20w40SE, but I like in the UK and it's never warm. Do I need a 10W40 semi? Bikes done 31000 if that helps, cold starts seem a little bit of a struggle bit I'm just wondering what brands are good and what aren't? So any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
  10. Good to hear you got it sorted mate. I was going to say, the shop would probably want to replace every single thing that has a mark on to get as much money out of you as possible. Unfortunately some people are like that. Good luck with the repairs!
  11. MMR good point. I got it out again and started it up, ran it up and down the drive a few times. Brakes actually seem OK. The bike was fine getting going and wasn't squeaking when I was on it. I'll check the brakes properly when I have someone else to help. On the plus side got all the electrics except the horn working! I think the horn needs replacing personally. It's pretty rusted and stuff. Anyway I'll check that at a later date. I think the bike is almost fine to ride. Once I can ride it properly I can do more troubleshooting as some stuff like the engine running might clear up once it's being used again. Maybe?
  12. OK cool, I'll add it to the list. I haven't checked the brake pad wear. So it could actually be new pads. I'll do that today.
  13. Hey Guys, So I now I have got my SR125 running I decided to try and tackle the electronics to save myself some money. Originally the previous owner had replaced the wiring loom and not managed to get it working again (he was using the 84 manual, and it's completely different for my 93). Anyway, there were wires everywhere, one indicator came on but didn't flash and stuff. For the past few days I have been staring at the wiring diagram and today I decided to take a go. I managed to get everything working except the horn and the lowbeam light (although the bulb has blown, so I might have fixed that). I managed to get the indicators working (the guy had put the back ones on, on the wrong sides *facepalm*). The only problem is that when I press the switch to the left, front and back left flash but the rightside warning light goes on. The opposite happens the other way. I checked the relevant wires and they are right. I think what has happened is that the left indicators have been wired to the right warning light and the same on the other side. This makes sense right? If I take the speedo unit off and swap the wires they should be OK right? Also the horn doesn't work. But the wires leading to it are f**ked, so I'm going to buy some new wire and some little connectors and try to fix that. OK so I tried to move the bike today and the brake had seized and I couldn't move it. I finally managed to get it unstuck but the wheel is really hard to spin around. When I push it the front squeaks. It has brake fluid to the right level, could it be my disk is bent? Or could it simply be the pads? Thanks for the help guys!
  14. Hey, Just a quick question. It was suggested that I took the carb apart as part of a service. But my manual and some biker friends have said that unless I know it needs cleaning, don't bother. So my question is, shall I take it part and clean it anyway? Or shall I do everything else like oil and air first before deciding to take it apart? Personally, I don't mind taking apart and stuff. But it's whether I need too or not. I'm giving the bike a mega clean this weekend ready to work on it. Before taking the carb out, shall I adjust the fuel mix to try and obtain better revs when idling or just go ahead and clean it? Thanks.
  15. Yeah, pretty sure I have to do that. So I have to wait. Hopefully cleaning the carb will do some good. I'm still looking to see if the switch on ebay will fit my bike. I have no idea how to find out.
  16. Fair enough, I'll just get replacement foam then. Think that is all I need.
  17. OK, I ordered the Haynes for the bike today so that will tell me. I did the chain and checked the oil today Well tried too, but the window was so dirty I couldn't see. The bike had some trouble idling today. It's fine for a few minutes but then it starts to idle alot slower and then cuts out. I'm going to leave it until I can take apart the carb and do the oil and air. Oh, when looking at new filters I saw this, which is a newer style airfilter that replaces the airbox. Right? Opinions? Once I have done the servicing I'll check the idling again and adjust if I need too. Some paint and some new bolts might be in order too!
  18. I think I'll do all of the above yeah. I've got to wait for some money to come through before I can replace the oil (and as I have none I can't really do the air filter either.) What type of oil would you suggest? 10W40 - but what brand? I can however sort the chain out and the carb. How difficult is it to strip, clean and reset the carb? I had a look in the manual but could really tell. I also need to get the electrics running properly before It is roadworthy, It is relentlessly confusing.
  19. At least it runs and stuff now. I will clean the carb this week, and order new filters and spark plug. That should keep me busy.
  20. Quite a few, 31000. But the last guy didn't really look after it I don't think. I want to get it working and work on it to learn how to do stuff. Hopefully I can bring her back to her former glory. It's not even money she needs. It's some cleaning, some paint and some new screws.
  21. I hear you, I'll get some of these this week. Cleaning the carb will be an experience! Thanks for your help guys!
  22. Good to say guys that it worked! Bridged the connections and it went into gear. It now runs at least. It did take me a while to get it started again, what do you think this could be? To big a gap in the spark plug bit? Or am I just doing it wrong? What I did, sat on it. Tried to start it, didn't start. Then did the choke, nothing for ages. Spurted (?) once but then I finally got it going. Maybe 5 mins of trying. The chain is way to loose so I'm going to sort that out tomorrow. And then I need to tackle the electrics - or I might take it too a garage to do that. It needs the left switch and the fronts lights/indicators doing. I'm hoping they wont charge a lot. £50-£70?
  23. Great Idea, I'll give that a go. Hopefully got some spare wire around. I'll report back.
  24. Well after putting in some fresh fuel I tried to start it to no anvil. I was about to come in and see what to do next when I thought "Just one more try, I'll listen to the starter relay and see if it sounds right. (I read some other topics on starting problems). Well anyway, sat on the thing - choke out for a bit and then got off and put my ear to it. When I pressed the starter button it roared to life. What a bloody relief. I'm guessing it was the fuel and the choke. Thanks for the advice guys, I feel so much better with it starting. I double checked what switches were plugged in and stuff (using the manual you provided DirtyDT). The clutch switch is plugged in but the there is defiantly not a side stand switch plugged in, nor is it actually on the bike. I found where it is meant to be though, which is good. I pulled it out of the garage and tried to get it going on the drive and it just cut out as I put it in first. I'm guessing it's the stand switch because it's missing. I'm looking at this stand switch on ebay and wondering whether it will fit my bike. Without the old switch I can't get the part number! Thanks again guys
  25. OK, so it doesn't have a stand sensor attached. It looks like I'll be needing one of them. Still cannot get the thing started. It turns over fine and almost started before (at least it sounded like it.) Going to get some fresh petrol now to see if it could be that. If not, what's next? Spark plug? Fuel lines?