flyday58

That's what I have been doing, copying the bottom link and pasting, but the vid just looks like a pic. When you clicky it takes you to photobucket. Is it one of the other links maybe? Thanks Paul.

Can I upload a vid and have it play here instead of taking you to my photobucket account?

Update for the long hot summer. Got the RT3 rideable and took her down the drive. All seemed cool until I tried to down shift. No workie. Stalled it out, too heavy to bump start, broke my foot kick-starting, was able to down shift again. Said to self, self it was just a thing. Sure it was. Went back down the drive. Upshift great, down shift no workie. Scheisse! Stalled again, broke foot again, down shifted once then stuck, limped home in 4th gear. Double Scheisse!! I figured out that if I applied slight upward pressure on the shift lever after the down shift, I could go all the way through the gears no probbo. So I knew summat was bodged in there, return spring methinks, tho it seemed fine when I installed it. Removed the clutch cover, and here is what I found: This bit looks okay (shift lever #1): So waiting on parts. Oh and someone may have busted another clutch basket cos they're too damn impatient to wait on the clutch-holding tool they just bought on fleabay. Don't know who that might have been, tho. Shhhh.

My '72 CS5 project.

So say Cynic; so say we all.

Don't know if you guys will let in a CS5 guy, but I'm skulking here, too.

White stuff is just surface (aluminum?) corrosion. I cleaned mine as per Airhead's advice, no probs. I pulled the left crank seal by drilling a small hole, screwing in the app sized screw and pulling, popped right out. Two notes: A) Make sure your drill bit stays away from the edge of the seal, or you may snag the case, like I did. AA)When you install the new one, don't over-drive it - it can go too far. Note the depth of the old one before you remove it, then try to match the depth on the install.

Found a guy on ebay, claussstudio.com, who takes your part or one he buys on ebay and copies it. This is one of his for the RT3:Yamaha DT2 DT3 RT2 RT3 1972 1973 Air Boot Joint Rubber New! Sent him my high-dollar joint, so we'll see how good the quality is for $40. I tried two other boots that looked similar but the diffs were way too much. Looked okay in the pics but in hand they wouldn't work.

Powersportsplus has clickable part #s that show you what else the part goes on - helpful when surfing E bA. I'm doing an RT3 and the cross-ref has helped tremendously. RT1s and DT1s use mostly the same parts, but RT/DT 2s and 3s could be different. Correct ID also goes a long way in this, as the '70 DT250 was actually named the DT1C - also told to you on powersportsplus.com. I use yamahasportsplaza sometimes. They have the cross-ref too but it takes a few more clicks to get at. You have to input the part # into the search bar to find the models it fits.

Did you try another spark plug to verify no spark?

Had to use my precision steel serrated-edge removal tool - hack saw - to get it off. Boss was frozen on the crank and didn't want to risk mushrooming the end. Bought a slide hammer but it just wouldn't budge so now it's bodged instead. Got a few items thru fleabay from Grimm but they didn't answer queries about my arm needs.

Muchos thankos por la helpa extrasiosa. What's the name of the yard, btw?

My thoughts too, Paul. Time for some piccies and a VIN.

Ah. I've seen this before. You should be able to solve this by the simple expedient of supplying the required 1.21 gigawatts to the flux capacitor. Hope this helps.

Kind of cynical, eh? Oh, wait..........um, never mind.

Really? Damn...

All correct. The Hitachi part # is 173-81115-10-00. The Mitsu is 173-81115-20-00 and won't work. My old one had some numbers stamped into the metal between the copper windings but got obliterated when I removed the thing. I found out that the big diff with these units is the crank they're bolted to. I bought a '75 RD200 arm cos it looked the same and the "dynamo" model was the same. It won't go on the shaft. So it HAS to be a Hitachi from a '68 YCS1, a '71 CS3 or '72 CS5, they all use the same diameter crank mounting shaft. If you have any luck, PM me. Thanks for taking the time to help, I owe you a !

Yeah, I can't access it, either, and I'm a member!

I use powerpartsplus.com, yamahasportsplaza.com and nwvintage. Yambits on ebay is also good altho overseas for you and me. Have also also used bikebandit.com and stadiumyamaha.com.

Yessir! Item #1 is the very part I need. Wished I lived in SLUT, there are several major yards out your way. The website link you used claims to have this armature for 410.00 euro, but I can't justify that type of money. PLEASE let me know if you have any luck. OGOAB, where did you find this quote? There are plenty of AT1 armatures available, but all my cross-referencing says they are not compatible, just the CS3/CS5/YCS1. If only...

Not having these on the opposing side of the Big Water, am unfamiliar but one post said it started with a jump from a car battery but died when disconnected from same. Does this use a magneto or an alternator/generator? Sounds like the latter from the posts, and if so, I would lean heavily toward battery and/or alternator. Especially since you were able to pump-start it to get it home - sounds like the battery had just enough left to limp home on and then gave up. Have you checked the battery voltage?

Anyone have a line on a wrecking yard or shop that may have the armature for a CS5? I need the Hitachi unit, also came on the YCS1 and some CS3's.

Way to go, y'all scared him off!

Looks like they have something I could work with, thanks for the linky.

I'm hip. But as NOBODY has had these since I started looking 3 months ago...I.m really big on stock, but that may change with prices like these.