Morpheuz

Doesnt work. I know exactly what was mentioned and keywords that were said yet, it brings up completely irrelevent topics. Does it only work with topic names, or can it pick up whats inside it? because I never find what I'm looking for. I remember someone talking about a pair of lighter dragstar wheels, so I search it and cant find it. I have got my bike running great and its as powerful and responsive as anyone could hope for, but im getting a bigger front sprocket and I'd love to be able to find these lighter wheels. I need me MPG back lol.

Bikes use positive displacement pumps, if your oil is too thick it may not drain through the pressure relielf valve enough, with a new gasket, minimum oil pressure should be 10psi per 1000 rpm. My reccomendation would be: and ester oil as its a natural seal conditioner 5w-40, so as not to blow seals on cold start up, and not too thick at operating temp. Many reccomend thicker oil when leaks appear but chances are, if the psi increases, so will the leaks. Either way if your gaskets gone, it needs replacing.

Yeah true, opening the throttle just undermines the choke, as letting in more air with the throttle removes the increased suction from the choke, resulting in no more fuel being let in than before.

Loose starter clutch? Apparently they like working loose on all bikes and give off a rattle at certain points.

Are you using a multigrade oil? Try a 5w-40 fully synthetic, if the oil aint been changed in a while, it may have deteriorated into a thick mess. Does it crank fast, or is it slow? Slow backing up what Ive said, and fast like normal means something else, maybe worn piston rings, giving too little compression.

http://www.positivespin.us/MotorOil.htm Worth a read. Its posted everywhere, but this is just one link. Its scary to think that running a 10w-40 is running a 10 weight oil with a heat thickner added. Synthetics are the other way around. Base oil of 40, that is as thin on start up as the 10 weight based oil. Theres a reason to spend more lol I also learnt that when cold, (W rating) the oil is not thinner than the hot rating, its just less thin that it would be, if it was a single weight oil. All oils are too thick at start up apparently. I believe it, because when cold I put a gloopy substance in, and when hot its like water coming out. That always confused me. They dont make ratings simple do they? Ive switched to a 5w-40 for my bike, because the rattle on start up isnt due to the oil being too thin, its due to most of it going out the bypass valve with it being too thick its not up in every nook and cranny.

If you have the stock air filter, I wouldn't reccomend cleaning it, but rather replacing it. The bike should start in summer completely off choke, but if not, give it half choke until its weened off when hot, then it should open up. If you have changed your plugs, I'd check them again, if you've had it over to the left all the time the plugs may be coked up again. Something electronicly is wrong, it needs an electrical engineer looking at it. By looking at the oil filter, the oil must have drained out, did you add some more? If its black or smells like petrol, or is watery, change it. If we can get this bike at least running, we can tune it back to health. Check all intake ducts, from the air filter sheild to the carb under the tank, any holes needs sorting, most likely with a new part. EDIT: Just realised youve got a virago, thought it said XVS before, similar bike but not same, choke maybe different someone would have to chine in, but servicing wise would have to be interpreted to your bike, we all got airfilters and plugs

Yeah it was hell noisy when I first got it, it didnt run too well either. It runs better and quieter now but some noises are still there, thats why I'm worried. When I got it the carb to head rubber had a few cracks in, and was pulling in air, could this cause a lean condition and ruin my pistons? I dont think the previous owner or the dealer had any idea it was there, so it may have been run lean a while.

My dragstar 125, is making a lot of sounds when hot. Im running 10w-40 motul 300v double ester oil, its the correct amount. It pulls fine and runs great, apart from a few noises. First, is the bottom end somewhere, like two logs knocking together, constant in line with rpm, its nearly at 13000 miles, dunno weather its in KM or miles. Obviously that can be heard better at idle. The cam and chains, are ticking like 24 sewing machines all in one. Im scared to death the bottom end bearings/rod bearings are going, or I have piston slap. Around a rounabout I heard something clunk around and then stop, this didnt start the noises, and bike was fine after, however I went around again and I saw no debris, so im crapping myself. I'm going to switch to 10w-50, maybe it will be quieter when hot that way, and I dont see no harm as its got a pressure release back to the sump anyway. I'll just try to keep it out of high rpm. Anyone who has one of these plagues will know how much parts are, hopefully a motorbike garage can find a non-oem parts source for bearings and such. Either way It will be going for an MOT soon but before hand I'm going to ask them to check the cam, chain, and sources of the noises. On startup the rear cylinder plooms vapor, while the front doesnt, then stops when hot... dont like it. I know V-Twins are known for being rattly but I put that down to an out of sync system. At this point I realise I am a forum whore now and am probably getting up a few noses, but at the same time I have extreme OCD and I'm a paranoid anxiety wierdo. So yeah, sorry. I love bikes, your talking to someone who paid 60 quid on 4l of oil every month for a chinese bike... I just dont want another little 125 drag written off because everyone is taking them apart. Thank you Morph out.. zzzzzz

People keep saying that the bike is stubborn when its altered air/fuel wise, I find it reacts exactly the same as any other bike. I'm running double ester oil, and it gets a cleaner every so often thats got an upper cylinder lubricant, the bike is crap uphills and against wind, and looks stupid when the bike looks like a 650. It redlines at 70 so I am getting a bigger sprocket and this increase in power is better for it, I am not worried about the rings at all, I'm not ragging it or anything and she gets nothing but premium stuff. I'm sure yamaha make good rings, and if not, replacements should be pennies with aftermarket ones.

Hi My XVS125 looks the same as it did five mins ago... not right impressed. Think it needs a change, I may remove the sheild where the air filter is, and install a fat cone, or a pancake mesh one. Or... I may leave it there and remove the airbox and put in an offset cone filter, where the box was, directly on the carb. for the smart folk yes I could just leave it... but im not. So, the latter viable option would be a pain in the ass to clean or remove.... however coupled with bigger jets I could be getting a nice top end improvement... the previous, may look out of its style... and it still has the rather diversive rubber intake connected to it. Anyone think this sounds good, or you recon its not worth it, bearing in mind any power increase IS worth it on a 125 because its noticed and helps more than a bike thats fully able to push through headwind. Cheers fellas and fellettes.

All stocked up over here, no petrol stations are empty. AFAIK, Towns and cities are affected most due to the number of people and cars/business. If it gets bad look for a station in rural areas.

dealers sell them for more even though they are shagged.

Found it Cheers guys, I've set it to 3 and a half turns out, had to mess with the idle speed screw too to get it to start right.

Great, off to have a look, thanks a lot gemini, and cynic, if I cant find it now I need an optical exam.

I dont think it misfires, or did you mean thats how they researched it? I thought the pistons cycle was just set up differently, each piston on say a dragstar, would go off simultainiously (cant spell) ... and a harley would fire each cylinder dead after one another with a pause after they both fire, cant say its good for the bottom bearings but it works. Dunno if u get that. I once observed a dude on a harley idling it, I thought it was going to fart out, but then realised it was the harleys patented design.

I think I get you now, opposite the float bowl, I thought that meant, on the straight opposite side of it, like north/south. Where the brass cover is that conceals the vaccum chamber, is what I was on about. I think your on about the hole that sits in the carb to heat rubbers, to the side of that? It wasn't that screw that I thought had ruined, its one on the vaccum cover that has no threads to grab, or at least their on their way out. I shall have another look, am I right in thinking with a nifty bent screw driver or something, I should be able to get at it by only removing the air intake and filter? And for what Ive done so far, another half turn should suffice, but I shall see what it responds best to. Thanks Paul, if I have misunderstood please let me know. Oh, and about that carb, is it the stock for this bike? If not is it a good replacement? I may be interested in it. Thanks again.

Oh christ... so I have to take off the brass cover? I swear last time I took that off one of the screws werent tightning up solid.... may have pulled the threads. I'll have a look, but if its pulled em, whats the best thing to do with a screwed carb screw?

Hello, I know I've been on about it before, but I just cannot seem to find it, the idle mixture adjustment for the XVS125, I've had my carb off and there is no screw or anything for idle/closed throttle fueling. I know there is an idle speed adjuster, its not that I'm after, its the fuel delivery one, cant find it at all, maybe the speed adjuster is all it has. With the mods I'm doing, I really need to start compensating the low end now aswell, not just the needle and main jet. If there isnt one, is it worth just putting in a bigger pilot? Thanks.

Rich low end?

I had some similar problems with mine ratbob, dont feel bad because I paid nearly 1900 for mine, and it wasnt at all how the dealer said it was.

Some new harleys are quite reliable now.

Roughly 13hp in my bike, with straight throus and better intake, hopefully I can cruise at 70 without devvo and his mates overtaking me.

ok, well I opened mine up, and I can cruise through towns with a nice harley type effect, I wont scream it, I am planning to go up 2 teeth on my front sprocket, so that should help, its just long A roads my bike tends to sound less like a harley and more like a strimmer.... once the revs come down with the sprocket, it should be ok.... bloody bike was set to bounce off the redline for some stupid reason. Factories set the sprocket ratios too high for 125s.

Ey up. Noticed in my area there are a few bikes that are very loud, and wernt to begin with. Also noticed some tourers and chopper/cruser styles after a biker rally that were beyond loud. I think they were straight throughs on high cc bikes. I was just wondering what, if any limit there is to the noise? Not because I dont like it, its because I would like to know incase I, or any of my mates gets pulled for it. Is it a case of coppers like to pick on the locals? Maybe after numerous reports or something.... But those 1900cc monsters that have nothing in the way of our ears and the exhaust valves set off car alarms.. Police dont care lol