Paul Mc

http://www.motorcycle-training.f2s.com/filtering.html P

Do you have compression?

Mervin, Watch yourself, I think the one second from the right has an adams apple

Ask these guys http://fazerowners.yuku.com/bfazerowners (But why didn't you just buy an R6 then?) Reckon carbs, electronic chip, exhaust, gearbox ratios and final drive gearing (but that's just guessing) are different on the detune.

They've probably read the post about the Clio... http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12215

As for the appearance of adverts... They appeared on the Fazer website a couple of months ago, popping up IN the chuffin' posts. Found it really annoying to start with (even loaded FireFox onto the home PC, which blocked the ads) but am now used to them, not a problem at all. Give it a month or two, you'll barely notice them or they'll certainly irritate you less. Gotta pay for the bandwidth somehow. Goff - that delightful little gif file that you had, was that a clip from a film? If so, which one?

There goes my main reason for logging in recently (Is my signature too big/long/etc - not sure on the netiquette on this one...)

If 2 stroke (and I think it is), then either EP-80 or EP-90 grade, depending on where you live (one is slightly lower temp than the other). (20W50 etc for 4 stroke engines) Paul (Not a stupid question)

Whereabouts are you Chris? I've an '81 AG100, sold to me as a DT (!) which is based heavily on the DT100. Over the years I've collected a few bits and bobs, including a spare pair of forks. Both the spare set, and the ones on the bike, are pretty good (but the bike hasn't been back on the road since I bought it, kind of a long term project...). Pretty good means not leaking oil everywhere, and they are gaitered. But have not had a look at the stanchions in years! Plan A was to sort the bike out and get it MOT'd with the best set of forks (and rear shocks, as I've a spare pair of those too), which I'm going to start to look at in the next couple of weeks, so I might have a spare pair of forks up for grabs... Depends heavily on the age of you machine probably, if it's too new then the forks I have a probably too thin...? Do you have a caliper to check what the diameter of your current forks are? Or go onto ebay and look for a second hand set. On the plus side, 2 strokes tend to go bang and leave the frames and forks in good nick, so you shouldn't have too much trouble getting replacements. Paul

Re-read the tin, did it need a hardener (sometimes called catalyst) adding before use? Is it designed to be stoved in an oven afterwards to cure? Is there a cure time shown on the can? Paul

Most likely coil related, as per your examinations (as it sounds like it's only running on 2). Not necessarily the coil, possibly something simple like the connector at the back of the coil for #1 and #4 - two small connectors, check that they are in position correctly, if yes take them off and clean the contacts properly and try again. Most likely a problem with the earth (as the lives share a common feed for both coils). Live will be constant, the earth will be switched via the CDi box based on a signal from the pick-ups, generating a spark via the plug in the process... But possibly the coil - if you have a multimeter, there should be resistance values in the haynes manual for checking the coil. Where are you? Paul

http://www.kawasaki-rider.co.uk/forum Paul Mc

I'd just wire the earth lead into the earth for the tail lights (assuming that there is one), will perhaps take a little extra wire. Paul

There is a decent RD owners club - used to be based near Romford, might be found on a search as the LC owners club or similar, they'd be your best bet. Paul

Actually, especially given the photos seen previously, I'm quite impressed. Have to admit, you've actually managed to make it look better and perhaps even a touch 'sexy' as per the original brief. Nice one Paul

Most likely via flooding carbs BUT that bike has a fuel pump, should only be sending fuel into the machine when the engine is running (and the fuel pump is running). Have a look here http://fazerowners.yuku.com/bfazerowners introduce yourself, do a forum search and post a query if you can't find anything to help... Paul

Probably be able to clamp on a mirror (perhaps a bar-end mirror instead) - how about longer forks (need longer speedo and brake cables too) or a completely fresh front end off another machine...? Got to be some way you can set the pegs really far forward too... You know, there really should be a photo on here every now and again of the progress you're making... Paul (do it do it do it)

Check the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running, should be about 13.6V for a 12V battery. If not, could be a problem with the generator - usually dodgy earth from what you describe, or badly fitting fuse etc... OR a host of other things, but I'd go for bad earth first (even earth connection between frame and battery (-)ve terminal, assuming there is one, have no idea about your machine. Where are you? Paul

Sellotape some dirty pictures to it! Your idea of sexy is probably not the same as mine - they're fine wee bikes BUT they are just a 100cc workhorse. If you want something 'sexy', upgrade to an RG125 or NSR125 or a wee sports 250 (if there are any RGVs or KR1Ss that haven't blown up yet). I took an RXS100 from London to Derry (and back) 3 times, twice via Liverpool and once via Dublin, on L plates so no motorways... I was young and stupid Paul

It'll be dermatitis, from the fuel most likely. I have a tendancy towards getting it, especially if I don't keep my skin 'hydrated' when at work (and before you think that sounds like some cr*p off a womans' magazine, if I don't drink plenty of water during the day at work (as I hate wearing gloves) then I'll get a little red itchiness on the backs of my hands). I've been working with paint and chemicals all of my professional life. Last 9 years has been making car paints, working with solvents and resin and stuff - occasionally (new) personnel at my place develop dermatitis and have to be taken out of the production areas. I'd not worry about it, it will clear up - but in future clean it off properly and drink plenty of liquid when working with paints or spilling petrol! (And I hate wearing barrier cream or gloves, don't 'have' to with drinking half a dozen glasses of water during the day). 2-pack spray paint (especially clear) can have the same effect that you describe, so can old engine oil etc... Paul

Pablo, Have a look here http://fazerowners.yuku.com/bfazerowners they might be able to help. Corroded forks on a fazer is a new one on me - not heard of that before... Paul

Do an internet search on the engine or frame number - might help. I might have a DT100 manual at home (bought before I discovered the DT100 I bought was an AG100) so PM me the first 3 letters of your frame or engine number, I might be able to help. Do the frame and engine number match? Paul

Most of the 4-cylinder machines I've had had the firing sequence 1,2,4,3. Mainly Kawasakis, all with 'spare' or 'wasted' spark. If you only have 2 coils, each feeding 2 cylinders, then unless the 2 cylinders are both at TDC at the same time (which I doubt) then they have to work by spare spark Two wires = one earth out and one live in for the pulse to 'fire' the coils = spare spark ignition. Paul

Stoot: Use a nail (or similar) with a hammer, obviously, to try to drive a small dent into the bolt that you want to remove. Then use a decent HSS drill bit to drill about 5-10mm into the bolt, using the initial dent as a guide or the drill bit will wander all over the place... Insert the easy-out and move it slowly and firmly and try to make sure it goes in straight, not at an angle. The high strength steel of the easy out will cut into the bolt, and the Left hand thread means that as it tightens eventually the bolt will loosen and unscrew. If the easy out cuts a 'dish' out of the top of the bolt, move down to a smaller easy out and try again, perhaps with another little bit of drilling into the bolt. Try to get the drill centre of the bolt, if too far to one side the easy out may damage the threads of the recess, you don't want that. For replacement bolts, can order originals off the local Yam dealer or just get some standard bolts and tighten them up. Paul

Should be able to get an early Mark 2 with reasonable mileage for £2K Have a look here http://fazerowners.yuku.com/forums/10 Paul