Campaman

If the police get involved fixed penalty notices or vehicle defect notices may be issued, DVLA can fine you up to £1000 and you will fail the MOT test.

Have the bleed nipple loose but still closed, slowly pull in the brake lever and hold, then with your other hand open the bleed nipple to let out the air/fluid, then release the brake lever, close the nipple and repeat. The hydraulic fluid is reasonably thick for the pipes so it needs pressure to get it moving, I would say if your just pumping the lever with the nipple open you have not got enough pressure to push against the air in the pipes and move the fluid down.

My bike has an alarm and immobiliser, I use a mammoth security chain with shielded lock, a disk lock and I also always put on the bikes steering lock, and it is covered when at home locked to the ground anchor in the garage.

looking good, but if I tried to stand my bike on our back lawn it would sink in the full length of the side stand in seconds at the moment its that wet.

Yup as he says, you need to check the grade of them, if they are allen head then setscrews tend to be grade 10.9 or 12.9 so are high tensile, stainless will not meet the proof load required, they should have a head mark that tells you the grade. I work in fasteners so if you need any more info please ask.

I can't imagine it would be that easy, and if the geometry is not the same handling will go seriously wrong.

Looks like some form of aftermarket exhaust to me, seems to be the wrong shape for an original.

Paint one side gold and the other black, got the best of both then.

Yeah I wonder how many people have been sliced up by them, its only on bikes registered after September 2001 that it became illegal to have them. Sent from my pc using my fingers

If you need any tips on building it have a look here http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/index.php?sid=a601179c215fa8d0e5aceb83d4142736 Also looking at your paint pots you may have both acrylic and enamel, just remember you can put acrylic on top of enamel but not the other way round.

What I find more dangerous is the idiots that don't check their lights are working and what you thought was a motorbike coming down the country lane turns out to be a dick in a 4x4 with only one headlight working. The blinding thing is not going to change, there used to be a time when all headlights were basically the same, a round Lucas one, now we have all these different shapes, with different lenses all at different heights with different kinds of bulbs. The trick is to train your self to look past oncoming vehicles not at them.

Rather than a ramp, could you use some triangular blocks of wood against each step to create a type of ramp, these would not tend to move when you go up them as they would be pushed against each step. As you say coming down as long as you are careful should be fine without any ramp, a bit like dropping off a kerb, but I wouldn't want to go up without as the front forks tend to compress rather than the wheel go up.

Yup total nonsense, the terminology of 'Burning' you C drive shows its not from anyone that really knows what they are talking about. Simplest way of not getting viruses is don't download pirated or dodgy material supplied by knock off Nigel.

Not with a Velcro strap round the front break lever as a hand brake. Or suppose a disk lock would work the same.

The only vouchers I would ever give anyone have the queens face on them, I have seen way to many companies go into receivership not honouring vouchers, the directors should be jailed for it, its theft.

Tease

Yes they are models, as well as bikes I have carried on building models (airfix and the like) as well as model railways from when I was a wee lad, some of the examples on the Alclad site look so real. Came across Alclad a few years back and used it on model jets and cars. Not sure how it would stand up to real life applications, but if sealed with a decent gloss top coat would think it would be OK.

Sorry no pics to hand, the last time I did it was using Plasticote Chrome paint on a set of mountain bike suspension fork lowers, but I have sold that bike. The idea of the polishing came from using Alclad on my models, the Alclad comes up really nice, so I tried it with the Plasticote and got similar results although not up to the Alclad standard. Link to Alclad for info http://alclad2.com/

Possibly twisted forks, if you don't know what you are doing I suggest you take it to someone that does, its not worth the risk, you need your forks and steering to be right.

I just buff it with a cloth, you may need to try different materials to get the best result, I generally use towelling rags that I get FOC from work.

The trick I found with the chrome sprays is to give it a buff up before you apply a clear coat.

My shed is home built, 8' x 18' with a 8' x 8' open fronted covered area to the side which doubles as a summer sitting area and winter outside shelter, also has a 4' x 8' front canopy over the double doors on the long side, this all sits on raised decking, insulated with lighting and electricity, could probably live in it :-) The bike lives in sealed carport cum garage.

I had something similar happen years ago when I went from a 250 to a XJ600, the first time out I pulled out of the drive at home and opened the throttle not knowing how much power there was compared to the 250, the acceleration pushed me back causing me to pull on the bars which cranked the throttle open more, managed to hang on to it, but it was a lesson learned and I adjusted the bars to suit after that.

Cant get a pick of mine until the weekend as I am not home in the light during weekdays this time of year. If I am remembering right your Queen did start out as a Classic?

Arghh yes cooking fats are not the best things to be let loose near a guitar, I have two dogs but they completely ignore them, although the younger one 11 months runs away when I play, not sure what that means though...