Noise

Yer dogs are amazing, gut wrenchingly so. I had a Colly cross Blue merl called Trip who was a rescue dog. Called him trip as he would either knock you over when he was off the lead or sleep by the front door so you'd trip over him when you came home. When i was on leave one weekend from the Forces i came home expecting to trip over the bugger and he wasn't there. Found out he went down with dimenchia (if thats how you spell it) and he had to be put down as he even forgot where his food was and was wondering round lost and confused all the time. Such a great dog with his own little traites. actually found him asleep in my bed one day, under mu covers and head on the pillow snoring his head off so i had to kip on his bed for the night ha ha.

Cheers Tommy, quite impressed with my self really but there again really wish i was out riding it. But it was my fault really, should have chosen to do the £30 oil and filter change when i should, rather than haveing to fork out £520 for a crank £177 for gaskets, £30 for and oil pump etc etc but hey ho guess its all apart of that big elaborate plan Jebus has for us 'ay?

Ha Ha, yer tell me bout it ive been pulling them out as ive been building her up but replacing as i go so that if i did drop any thing then atleast i aint gotta strip it again or try and hold it up side down and shake the bit out Right next, spin the engine round to the right hand side, now its time to fit the Rear timing chain and chain guide. Slid the chain down through the top and thow it over the Shaft out the side of the case onto its gear, then slide the chain guide down through the top as well and bolt into place. Next is to fit the starting gear (big thin gear) this is behind the fly wheel. Now in side the fly wheel there are six 6mm alen head bolts that fix a bearing onto the back of the fly wheel, you have to remove three of these bolts to fit a puller to remove the fly wheel but i removed all six bolts and took the bearing off to inspect it. So after fitting the starting gear, slide the bearing over the shaft as well and push it over the lip of the starting gear. Next up is to fit the wood ruff key. BEfore fitting make sure the grove the key goes in is clean and free of shit and so is the key, other wise it aint going in, fit the key so that the curved part is facing down and make sure its not in on the tit (it wont fit flush as it needs to stick out the top) now grab your fly wheel / rotor line its grove up with the wood ruff key and slide it on. Stick its bolt in and start tightening it up Torque setting is 80 Nm Tip: nw the Fly wheel will turn as you do its nut up, as im a basic tool holder i didn't have a special tool to stop it spinning so a folded bit of blue roll in the gears done the trick just fine with no damage. Next up is to fit the starter motor gear. very easy, slide the gear in first and then slide in the shaft (small gear in the pic) Now on to the pistons. Stuff blue roll into the crank cases under the con rods and down in the timing chain holes just in case you drop the piston's locking clips. push out the pistons shaft and fit to the con rod. now fit the locking clips. These are fiddely little things (well for me they where, it was my first time) so if its your first time too then the way i managed it was to fit the bottom of the clips first that have the split then push in the top (where to half circle cut out is on the piston) as far as i could with my finger, then pushed it home with some pointed nose pliers. Now fit the prop shaft coupling, easy as pie! push into place (but not all the way in) but in the four bolts but dont do them up, now fit the two half circle thin spacers so the notches in them line up with the bolts and then start bolting it up. Job done TO BE CONTINUED

Thanks Sach, its getting there. the pile of bits in bags is going down now which is making me smile. Once the motor is done i can then get cracking sorting the paint on the frame and other bits n bobs

Right then, after your cuppa its time to get cracking again. Sping the engine round to the right side and lay it down (like so) Now its time to fit the Gear selecting Mechinisum, this is a bit of a pain in the ass and i forgot to take pics of this process but its quite self explanitory how to get it in place. Here is a pic of it in place (bottom left) Other side of Gear selecting mech Now its time to fit the Front cylinder timing chain with one of the chain guides, followed by the oil pump gears. Slide the chain throught the top of the case and then over the top of the crank shaft onto is gear. Then slide the chain guide down through the top as well and do up the two nuts. NOTE: that the chain has a small spot of paint on the side that should face out towards you After this place the oil pump gears over the crank shaft and do up the center nut, then pinch the locking washer round the nut TORQUE SETTING FOR CENTER NUT IS 70nm Next job is to fit the clutch basket and clutch plates. Pretty easy, as long as when you took it apart you tie wrapped it all in the same order you took it off. just slide all the parts over the shaft and bobs your fanny! When you put the clutch plates in, all the fins on the basket are blank bar one, this one has two little dots hammered in, this is the grove that the notches on the clutch plates that have two V shapes cut out goes in. Groves for the clutch plates lined up with pin holes TO BE CONTINUED

Im with you Tommy! even tho my dog acts like a twat most days i love them to bits. Really happy your Lab pulled through and is on the mend,

Lallasro!!! You need to supply eye bleach if your posting pics like that!

Hi Eddie Welcome to the group. where bouts in somerset are you? there really isn't a badge / patch for our group but Mr Foamy is doing some rather nice Club T shirts

Getting there!!!!

Right, the reason why i had to rebuild my engine was because of a fucked crank and big end bearings, so i managed to get my hands on a very good second hand one from the states so this is my starting point of how to rebuild from. _____________________________________________________________________________ Start with making sure your happy with the condition of the crank case's paint, if your not then remove old paint and re-paint. i done mine in Halfords VHT gloss black and its brilliant, probably the only good thing they sell bar WD40! Start by packing out the inside of the crank case with blue roll / rag to stop any shit getting inside and make cleaning easyier. After paint (first thing depending) start cleaning all of the mating surfaces of the crank case ready to put them back together when doing this crap will fall in the case but hopefull the rag will stop it going too far in. Once these are clean then get cleaning the inside of the cases. As my big ends where shagged i had shards of copper colored metal every where so took a fair while getting this out. Now its time to start rebuilding! Install new crank, wrap rag / blue roll around the con rods to prevent any damage when you join the cases together. As you can (hopefully see) the mating surfaces are nice and clean ready for the sealant Once this is in place DRY fit the case's to make sure things are lined up and not all to cock so that once the sealant is on every thing slides in gravy. Note: That the gear selector is a funny shape and has to line up with the cut out in the left hand case! And make sure all the dowls are still in place! Once your happy with the dry fit remove the left case and wipe the mating areas again and apply RTV sealant. Join the two case's toghter (you may have to tap it with a soft mallet (DONT WACK IT................TAP IT) Place all the crank case bolts back in place and do them up just shy of finger tight, now get your Haynes Manuel and find the page for the tightening sequence and start to do them up bit by bit so that the case's sit flush. TORQUE SETTINGS ARE: 6mm bolts (small bolts) = 10nm 8mm bolts (fat bolts) = 24nm Once you have done this then id say its time for a Cup of tea. Next job is to start putting all the other crap back in. TO BE CONTINUED

Right here we go! this thread is a walk through talk through of how to attempt to rebuild the XVS 650 Dragstar engine. I am not a mechanic, nor will i ever use mechanical terms. I am just a keen DIY'er with a Haynes Manuel and a little knoledge of Mechanics. If there is some thing ive missed or you would like to know then i will try and help with extra pics etc if not as we are on a forum.................................um, i guess you can ask everyone else. I DO NOT KNOW EVERY THING................................................... so be warned i maybe doing things completely wrong and you can laugh point etc and watch me further fuck up my bike, but at the end of the day at least you will know how NOT to do it and come away knowing that ive still tought you all a lesson So what you will need are the following: One dead and stripped XVS 650 Engine Haynes Manuel Tools (i have soem good ones but still very basic) Hi Fi System Some where to do the job (Shed, Kitchen, Living room) RTV Sealent (gasket / crank case's) Copper slip + Loc tight Paraphin (for cleaning) Blue Roll / Rags New full engine gasket set Rubber gloves

Well you helped the cops out didn't you? you didn't need to have to take them away from more pressing matters like holding speed guns and making friends with the local chav down the shops so i can't see why they would need to speak with you ha ha

Well as promised here are a few little pics of the progress so far, cant really do much more till the crank turns up (hopefully today) then i can get motoring on putting bits and bobs back together. Here is the newly painted Crank cases all nice and glossy. And i stuck her together to make a roller so that i can check out the new rear mud guard and make sure it dosn't rub the tire. And installed the best blue roll engine in the world I will put together another thread about the assembly of the engine and post a link to it in here so that if anyone else has the same drama in the furture you can see where i cock up and avoid what i do ha ha

Been hit in the face by a wasp/bee at 70+ ish (open faced lid) stung a bit but i knew it was dead so carried on riding. Also been hit in the leg by a large lump of rock that was shot out of the wheels by an arctic goin gthe other way, definatly stopped for that one! nice lump grew just next to my shin, and i didn't even get a sympathy kiss from the wife!! (bitch)

Should have duck taped his lips to the exhaust after the correction thump and started the car up. Pat on the back for you tho, wish these Jeremy Kyle throw backs got more of this as the streets wouldn't need my policing as everyone would soon start to learn respect (but that would be in an ideal world)

Yer but its cheap ha ha

I just use a block of wood under the side stand to sit it up vertical then get a standard car jack and two axle stands = job done

Some times you just have to grab life by the horns and ride it!

Ha ha, Sorry been on holiday from work so not been on i a while, not much been going on really, apart from being nailed by customs for an extra £100 to finally get my crank sorted. So should have that delivered tomorrow now. So for now all i have done is painted the front cylinder gloss black, port and polished both cylinders and made a new rear fender. Will post some piccies tomorrow

Just get some wire, soldering wire and iron, heat shrink and an hour away from the Wife = job done and for less than a tenner

If your good with a solderig iron you could always cut the wires and extend them your self thus using the same plugs.

I did feel sorry for him but at the same time i still though he was a twat and told him so in our convo we had. When i was hanging back i was thinking about leaving him be, but if he HAD created a crash and someone or even he was killed i doubt i could have gone to sleep for a few days after.

Honda C90!

Will do once im home, work will not permit such vulgerness