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I've seen a lot worse are you going ultrasonically clean them or see how they are first?

If your interested I know of a perfect set of 400C/D cans that will be up for sale soon, he told me they wont be up for sale on the AC site if your interested I'll ask him for you.

That's the right one Dirty and the baffled air filter. Do Not fit the un-baffled filter without Jetting up on a standard 400 but if you do it would be about 170 mains, this is an approx as you probably know jetting is dark art.

As said the wadding just absorbs the sound waves They sound crisper without.

I dont know if you know. I'm not sure Dirty but that looks like a 250 airbox & filter.

That not a bad price for a single kit.

I wouldn't tap to 7mm there shouldn't be enough metal left to make a decent thread it will be weak and fail.

If the threads have gone you may not be able the tap out to 7mm. Have you thought of recoiling it? this would keep it 6mm.

Whats already been said is basically true I'm a former RosPa rider, if you fancy doing any advanced riding do this one as your trained largely by Police riders, You may get a small discount but be aware that the cost in fuel etc will out way any savings. There are arseholes in all clubs and RosPa is no different. PS. The reason I'm not RosPa anymore is that too many people were getting Gold standard just for knowing the handbook when they next to no bike control.

Your welcome, Nice Elliott that should keep you busy.

Any DIY chain link will be the weakest kink (pardon the pun) in a chain, so torquey motors are better off with endless chains. They take longer to change but it will give you the opportunity to inspect the swingarm pivot which most riders don't maintain.

Stand Spring.

450 a day including twists you'll knacked.

Hi Elliot, I'm not that familiar with the YR1 however, I know the cases on the YR5 also known as R5 are different to the RD350 the main crank seal have a locating lip on them which fits into a groove in the cases also isn't the gear box internals different but not sure. The ignition system is fairly basic I would have thought its possible have a word with Nick @ Vintage Smoke in the US as he makes good affordable systems for the RD350 and 400's. Engine numbers over hear: RD350A - 360. RD350B - 521. However in the US the RD350 is 352 I think? Any pictures of your bike..

Apparently the tender application started on the 1st May 2014, and will conclude on the 22nd May 2014.

Bridgestone are pulling out of MotoGp as the official tyre sponsor I wonder who are taking it up?

Yes Mini Disc really good but fell foul to the on rush of MP3 players.

Good advice +1 This is so true.

I have owned a FJ12 3CV in my option the best model like Dutch's. The earlier model's have vented disc's which crack and the rear suspension is lower so the cornering will deck quickly they all do this but the models before the 3CV will do it earlier. Keep an eye on the anti-dive is doesn't work but can upset the fork action. Second gear takes a bashing so when test riding (when motor warm) give it the beans in second and see if it drops out but beware these old beast really motor on so hold on. No1 valve tends to tick but with careful maintenance it can be sorted. The 3CV and later have better brakes but need a lot of care or they will need rebuilding, Blue spots are good upgrade. The FJ is the bargain bike on the market its overlooked which odd as it must be the best large aircooled tourer out there. There is also the 36Y 1100 version which I would buy but I'm a purist. Handling wise they are planted but due to this the bike can be heavy at low speeds. Lastly the 36Y & 1TX have 16" front wheels and not designed for radials so tyres selection is limited. My ideal FJ would be 3XW frame with 3CV swingarm & forks with 36Y motor and bodywork and no ABS. If you tend to have your bikes serviced by a shop it doesn't matter which you buy however, If you maintain your own the FJ is the one too buy as its easy but if you are quite good with a spanner and are ready for a challenge the FJR1300 is worth the extra money, early Mk1's are a bargain and less likely to be modded like the FJ. PS. Dont over look the XJR1300 as this bike is very good tourer.

Nice!! are you going to insulate it? What type of security are you doing! maybe you shouldn't answer that.

Okay whose got a MD they wernrt around for long?

I'm not sure if we got those over here?

If a chain has worn to its limit you should not remove a link to try and get more use out of it, this a dangerous and will snap. Also since you have ground the links now you should throw it away.

And I thought I was sad. No really I enjoyed the intro v.much. Welcome in..

Yeah the 3CV model fairing is doddle to remove.