NE0

Each to their own mate!....... If you like the taste of them thats your choice

As I said at the very beginning........

Obviously this thread is about converting a DT175MX, however, the principle will be the same for other 6volt machines with similar layout. The ignition side though, whether CDI or points, is a separate circuit and should be unaffected by any conversion. Remember, this conversion is about changing ALL the bulbs from 6v to 12v & Replacing the 6v flasher for a 12v one.( no need to change the horn) The major parts are the 12 volt battery and replacement of the two 6v parts: the rectifier and regulator and exchanging it for an all in one regulator/rectifier. However, I've had a look at the circuit diagram of the DT100B in my haynes manual and i see there is no regulator and the headlight is run directly off the generator whilst it charges the battery via the rectifier. Therefore its likely that the LIGHTING coil appears to be of low output and only capable of doing these two tasks. it would need a regulator if it was any more powerful. As regards to.. I think you mean the HEADLIGHT is still a 6v bulb but the rest of the bulbs are 12v and THEY all run off the 12v battery (which is charged by the LIGHTING coil) If someones gone to the trouble of changing all the bulbs and battery to 12v, In essence YOU have a 12v bike...but without a regulator I doubt you could fit a 12v headlight bulb.

well, it's been a bit of a windy day today! I certainly was aware of the top box on the back, but as regards to 'drag'. No i don't think it does that much. After all its not like having a pillion on the back. ....But it was great not to have to ride with the rucksack on, which is the main reason for putting it on.

Well here's a laugh for you, genuine period photo taken around end of 1977~1978, This was my first bike!......bike?.......alright scooter! I restored it ...i.e decoke and new rings and painted it blue!!! fitted the crash bars and air horns and added a load of mirrors and front screen. (yet to be added in this photo).but take a look at thoses flares...got to be 12 inches ( my feet were size 12) The best bit is this was BEFORE the mod revival which was a year or two away. I used it on the road to pass my test and used it for a couple of years before it was scrapped as an MOT failure so I replaced it with an Orange one and swapped the chrome and mirrors over, then came the MOD revival and I duly sold it for over £250.....that was a bloody fortune then!! Talk about being in the right place at the right time.......I only paid a few pounds for it!!

Come to think of it I used washing up liquid to put the buggers ON!!

you could always wait until it rains hard! Have you ever noticed they always start to move about during a downpour!..well mine do!

No way.... My 1976 cb400/4 is NOT fuddy duddy!!! we're seriously going.... here boys!!

Looking at your earlier photos, I see your bike has the round tube swinging arm, so I assume is an early DT175MX i.e 1978-1979 (mines registered 79 but is a 78 model which Paul helped me to understand) However, knowing YOUR luck and that you've got the wrong loom it would be funny if you've got a early swinging arm on a later frame wiring looms for both the round tube and the later square tube are available. i know 'cos I bought one! Yuniparts do the earlier loom for the Earlier round tube 1978 2K4 2K4 = engine/chassis number 2K4-000101 onwards. feb 78 into 79 and it also fits 2X2 = engine/chassis number 2K4-010101 onwards. during 79 only as the wiring diagram is the same in the Haynes manual ISBN 85010 300 3 QH034 click here and Yambits do the later looms 4J4 with the Later square tube. 4J4 = engine/chassis number 2K4-020101 onwards. 1980 to feb 85 click here I purchased mine from Yuniparts, the looms become available periodically or you could email them. I swapped mine only a few weeks ago AFTER my 12v conversion. N.B these ebay Links might be invalid if you're viewing this post after july2011 They only last a few months after they have been active

...and now with GIVI removeable topbox in matching colour scheme!

Hi Phil, I must confess I'm very pleased with my 12v Conversion of my MX. As you've just read it you'll see I've added that I've recently upgraded the headlight to 45w and its clearly a lot brighter, I appreciate its a lot less bright at low speed i.e stopped at the lights, but thats so far not been a problem, Once you're off its bright enough, not as bright as my 400/4 light, but then the diameter of the Hondas headlight is a lot bigger and a few inches lower which clearly makes a difference. I won't be converting the bike back to 6v thats for sure.

Well no luck getting an original, one did come up on ebay recently i did have a bid but it went for a bit more than I wanted to pay (Got a feeling that was you selling paul ) I kept up a fruitless search on ebay, but in the end decided to 'modify' one I purchased a buy it now rack for a Skyteam ST for £12 being black it meant I didn't have to worry about any chrome. I promptly cut off the fixing brackets and set about fabricating a pair of new arms with my MIG welder. Keen eyes will have noticed I also fitted a helmet lock, my DT was missing the original one and on ebay a NOS one was over £50. However, i purchased one for a XS250 for £15 and fabricated a mount for it welded onto one of the arms. A quick respray later and I think it looks ok........what do you think?

(posted earlier) More news.... Still not had to externally recharge the battery which means its still on the original charge. This proves the battery is being charged quite happily on the charging circuit. remember I ride with all the lights on day and night! Anyway, just to let you know I've sourced a 12v 45w/45w bulb same design as the 6v one with the 3 holes in the flange from good ol' ebay. Look for APF Bulb 12v 45/45w its a lot brighter than the 35w, and is at maximum brightness above 3500revs. Not saying it lights up the whole street but an improvement all the same. I've taken off the fiamm air horn as I think the 6volt horn (i never upgraded that part) sounds much louder with 12v supply...don't worry it can cope with it. NE0

Hi Stiggy, A warm welcome to you (Suns been shining all day on Brighton) Just along the road myself from Brighton around the Portslade area. If you're into older bikes you might have seen me around on mine

OMG the producer of the video needs a course in how to edit! Made my eyes go funny, all the chops and repeats, he must be on drugs!!! OR I must be getting old..........

Trouble is I've got nothing to compare it to OG Its not that heavy, must be aluminium, so its likely to be aftermarket. I've not got all the receipts for work done so I don't know when it was replaced. I've seen the wadding available at yambits OG, is one pack enough? does it compress?

OG I can only assume its OEM. The bikes only done 19000 from new and there are many receipts for work done. Exhaust pipe welded on 3 occasions match the 3 small patches on the bend...just where its got a hole now! No mention of a new tail can. The can is a smooth black cylinder with 3 allen screws which hold the end cap on. No numbers visible? The wadding inside just falls apart when pulled. Its oily and black as expected. I've got a spare exhaust chamber for the front to fit on, (needs a gasket and connecting rubber first) I assume replacing the wadding will effect the noise level.... just trying to comply with Mr plod ..........and my neighbours i guess!!!

I was waitng at the lights today and a PC came over and tapped me on the shoulder.. 'ello, ello...your bikes a bit too noisy!! Eh?, I couldn't hear him...my bikes a bit noisy! my helmet helps drown most of it! Anyway, he was alright about it, but he said I ought to get it a bit quieter! So once i got it home I set about having a look...and listen. With my helmet off, clearly it is a bit on the loud side..... However, it doesn't help that the rubber joining the rear can is a bit perished and loose. Plus there's a small hole in the bend by the engine...have to get the welder out! I also discovered the wool inside the rear can is a bit flakey and jet black! Looking on ebay I see you can get replacement baffle wool, and hopefully a new rubber connector. But I also came across decibel killers... Can they be fitted to the DT can? Will repacking the baffle wool cure it on its own? I've not had to worry about this sort of thing before my 400/4 just purrs....

E stands for EARTH F stands for FIELD I is for IGNITION / LIGHTS Regulators protect lights and stop batteries from frying.

This is a common regulator fitted to many japanese bikes of the 70's My Honda 400/4 has an identical one and so did my other Hondas. It's called a Pointless regulator in that its solid state, no moving parts! The colour code is GREEN for EARTH , WHITE to the ALTERNATOR and BLACK from the LIGHTS Circuit. As long as you connect your EARTH (whatever colour YOURS is) to the GREEN terminal you won't go far wrong. If you're interested it opens and closes rapidly inside which creates a resistance in the alternator field coil thereby reducing its output...stops your lights blowing! Hope this helps.

Or If you're mad..........try this

Just to update you on the success of Project firefly! It's been a month now since I did the conversion. No bulbs blown and there has been no need to externally charge the battery. I ride with the lights ON all the time I've done a total of 190miles, so theres been a constant draw from the battery, including using the indicators all the time (No green laning). The timing and CDI was untouched. Everything works fine......... a worthwhile upgrade to 12volts.

Hi Aaron and welcome, I'm sure this is not as uncommon as it appears.... Bikes and cars are all manufactured for different markets. A european bike will likely have a european wiring loom installed, but local variations to indicators and switches will be added to depending on its final destination. I'm sure the US market is similar. It's likely that your bike has a US loom and it would have been suitable for either US or canada etc. yes? If the wire ends in the plug then another plug with different wires connected could be plugged in to complete the bike. You say the diagram shows the wire and is supposed to be like that, but have you checked the wiring diagram for other countries? I bet somewhere you'll find the wire is used. It's easier for Yamaha to fit one loom than have several variants. In terms of japanese efficiency would they have installed the loom and removed the fuse if it wasn't going to be used later, or simply install the common loom and then install the next loom on the next bike and so on, regardless of its final destination? my feeling is its just one of those production issues and nothing more. After all, my car has all the complete wiring for cruise control, but the clutch and brake switches are missing, even though it has the fuse.

Snap! Mines a wine red one, its a very nice fit and I'm very pleased, I bought mine last year when they had the sale on and it was well under £180...not that you want to hear that! see I told you it was bloody good service...they really are the dogs dangly bits. well recommended. (what colour did you get?)

Good to hear you've got a new MOT on your machine. I therefore assume you sorted all your starting problems out. You started a couple of threads in the workshop area but never finished them off to let us know what the problem was Starting Problem and Overflow problem One thing that really gets my goat on ANY forum is reading threads that never tell the audience how they solved the problem. New members will read posts and think, 'thats whats happening to my bike...." but never find out the actual cause, especially when there are multiple solutions. It only takes a couple of lines... Thanks guys you were right, or nope turned out to be a damaged monkey reciprocating lubricating screw!....or whatever thats it..moan over! Well done for the new MOT