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I did a search through the forum, nobody seems to have asked this question before, or if they did, they put it in title with a cryptic heading like "help" or "question" or "need help" that sort of thing, I must confess these simple titles get my goat up!!! why can't they be more concise? Anyway back to the question in hand......... I'm just in the process of doing an engine rebulid on my Honda CB400/4 , I did the DTMX 175 last year!! The base gasket has leaked oil for some years, in fact shortly after i rebuilt the engine a few years ago it started...but recently its got worse and enoughs enough! i decided its time to fix it, so engine out and replace the seals and the gaskets, and whilst I'm in there I'll do the primary and cam chain (£80 for the primary chain!!!!.........'kin hell!!) I didn't replace the primary the first time around just did the shell bearings, rings and cam chain. false economy i know it was probably a lot cheaper then too!.Mind you next to no wear on the shells which i'm pleased with. However, I'm just in the process of putting it all back together, and I thought what do others do when it comes to fitting the gaskets. Back in the 70's and 80's it seemed to be common practice (in my neck of the woods) to smear the new gaskets with a thin layer of instant gasket (except for the head) just for insurance purposes, i.e make sure the bugg'r don't leak!! When i rebuilt the DT175, I must confess I put a thin film of hylomar blue on the crankcase halves along with the gasket, it didn't do it any harm, made a barely visible blue line (there wasn't so much that it made large globules of the stuff inside and out! that could have resulted in foreign matter in the workings). it doesn't leak. I recall back in the 70's and 80's old cortinas and the like with bright orange silicone in big unsightly globules all around the joint faces....they also didn't leak but looked sh*t!! What are your thoughts and recommendations fellas, Put them in dry? Use a thin film of instant gasket? Smear them with oil? smear them with butter, jam......... body fluids! or maybe Leave them out altogether? (that last one was a joke!!)

My advice would be to stop trying to fix it piece meal and simply take the whole engine out, strip and restore it, that way you can renew all the bearings, seals, gaskets etc. its a simple motor, will take you less than 2 hours to strip it down completly (taking digital photos as you go). Its not expensive to do and that way you'll know everything is done and will last for a few more years, i did mine last year and its been perfect since. in the time you've been trying to sort it , you could have put it back together and it's not as if you've been relying on it to go to and fro from work as it doesn't go now!......go on, bite the bullet and take it out!

What makes you think that? Before using original material, you needed to obtain permission...............Having been the editor of a car club magazine for 7 years, there was a bit about copyright which one had to be aware before using it or making it public! Literary, Dramatic or Artistic Works Copyright lasts for 70 years after the year of a known author's death. For unknown authors it expires 70 years from the end of the calendar year in which the work was first made available to the public. If a work is produced by two or more authors then the copyright lasts for 70 years after the death of the last of the authors to die. Which manuals are you referring to? The Haynes type manual? then Haynes being the publisher and author will not be giving it up as they still publish the books. If you mean the Yamaha manuals by Yamaha for use by Motorcycle dealers/repairs, even though its no longer published, then the above will still apply from the date it was copyrighted/first published on the inside cover. You'd have to ask Yamaha to make it public, but its highly unlikely to make it to any meeting as an agenda item, it will not be a priority at all......making money will be on the agenda along with performance and the like! Regretfully Copyright is not open to public debate or your own interpretation of it, or your own understanding of it, or how you can justify using it. It's a law, of which if you break it, and a client wants to take it further, you will lose. Lawyers making a living out of this sort of thing!!!..........on behalf of the client who is agrieved of course!!

Would it be part 25 and part 27, scoop air bracket and rubber damper. http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600-rh-1996_model10286/partslist/C-12.html#results Part No OEM number: 3HE-2137W-00 and damper OEM number: 3HE-2139U-00 certainly looks like it to me next time.......do a little intro in the newbie area, and try and mention the bike you want help with in any title

I've no idea either, but i'd wish you had made title a little less cryptic!! Please help identify part on FZR600 instead of just please help!!!

Got sent this, sure some of you have to, however, i thought I'd share it here.......very amusing! Baldrick: "What I want to know, Sir, is, before there was a Euro there were lots of different types of money that different people used. And now there's only one type of money that the foreign people use. And what I want to know is, how did we get from one state of affairs to the other state of affairs." Blackadder: "Baldrick. Do you mean, how did the Euro start?" Baldrick: "Yes, Sir." Blackadder: "Well, you see Baldrick, back in the 1980s there were many different countries all running their own finances and using different types of money. On one side you had the major economies of France , Belgium , Holland and Germany , and on the other, the weaker nations of Spain , Greece , Ireland , Italy and Portugal . They got together and decided that it would be much easier for everyone if they could all use the same money, have one Central Bank, and belong to one large club where everyone would be happy. This meant that there could never be a situation whereby financial meltdown would lead to social unrest, wars and crises." Baldrick: "But this is sort of a crisis, isn't it Sir?" Blackadder: "That's right Baldrick. You see, there was only one slight flaw with the plan." Baldrick: "What was that then, Sir?" Blackadder: "It was BOLLOCKS!."

Hi phil, Rest assured your problem won't be related to the 12v conversion. The conversion is only a means to charge the battery and run the electrics, ie lights and horn. The ignition is NOT effected by the conversion. That said also rest assured if you've got Paul on the case, you can't go wrong, He's a sort of Yamaha demi-god around here!........... Demi?.......no he's the main one!!! Notch up another neo-conversion!

Hi Phil welcome to the YOC hope you enjoy your visits and you'll learn a lot I'm sure. Firstly, the one thing which gets many of the guys backs up here, is not posting an introduction about yourself in the newbie section. Doesn't have to be much:- hi my names so and so , been into bikes for blah blah, riden all sorts of bikes including harleys etc etc, you get the drift? That way , you'll find the guys respond much quicker to posts and we tend to have a bit of a banter, some guys will even bend over backwards to help you....with knowledge that is not in any other context!! That said, you mention one thread which suggests using a 4 wire Cub 90 regulator, if it's my thread, then i think you need to re-read it in full and not speed read it, because you've not wasted your money as you have the right one. You wanted to try the local pool of knowledge first .............well you're in it!

I'm sure this would be fine, but be aware that electric drill armatures spark quite nicely, and if there are any fumes from that tank............. I'm not quoting "Elf & safety" or trying to frighten you............... just the experience of attending to someone in A&E who did just that a few years ago with extensive burns!! ( if you're going to drill it you might want to consider an old hand operated drill.)

I did my MX 175 following Airheads advice and it has its own thread and full detail here might be worth a read?

If its real then, Jimmy is a willing participant, when he goes up the stairs he's wearing a jumper/sweater, ........... which he didn't have getting in the car!! clearly he's been home had a wash and shave and now going off for some fun which is about the only time i think you can use those emoticons!!!

You've done bloody well there mate, pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Good luck with the MOT, now all you have to do is ride it......................and learn how to take pictures in focus; some of those LEDs ones! :lol:!

I've used various methods, drill and stud extractors i use as a last resort. Mole grips ruin most chances of success quite a bit. I tend to use my cam stud extractor if theres any stud on show and providing you can get enough clearance. Use with plenty of penetrating oil. Keep it as flat as possible, any lift will shear the stud. available on ebay I dare say

i thought this would generate a lot more comments ......... afterall its not been photoshopped.

I got to get me one of these gas tanks!

Not a great deal I'm sorry to say!! I assume you're referring to lessening your chances of being taken out by a car turning into your path? Reflectors are of little value and require a light source to reflect off to make them visible to the person looking at them! The reason why your rear reflector works is because the car driver who is looking at you has his headlights on, REFLECTING off your reflector. During the day time you don't see a reflector...unless you happen to have the sun shining on it and that means you got to be riding with the sun on your back...........ALL the time............You'd ride in a 180 degree circle! Flourescent jackets increase your chances of being seen........but contrary to belief .....not by much! I work in A&E and there seems to be just an equal number of cyclist and bikers wearing day glo's to non wearers...but the vast majority are still taken out by car drivers who did'nt see them! However, If Brussels get their way you'll have to have them! but until then. More lights on your bike might help, Scooters in the 60's and the mod revival of the late 70's/80's saw lambrettas with loads of lights, but they still got knocked off. Whilst YOU might be riding with due care and attention, the car driver will have plenty of distractions:- car radio, CD, back seat passengers, kids, eating,you name it, oh and .......mobile phones! the lot!! All of which the car driver will rarely think it's his or her fault!.....its the bikers FAULT for being on the road. Seriously, Riding with ALL your senses fixed on self preservation is the best mod! Headlight on, and with a truck right up your own backside is best! ......They will see the truck first! and rarely does a car pull out into the path of a truck!

I've just seen your other thread showing your bike and also your other scooter. Why don't you simply have your headlight package delivered to you at heathrow when you land there and take it home? If not you must know someone who works there who would bring it to you by having it delivered to them? IF I worked there i'd help you!

where's that then? The US is not listed but........ If its a fancy name for barbados? then it is listed in the yuniparts shipping to. use ebay.co.uk NOT .com looks like a "round tube swinging arm" you have there, so probably late 70's................1978?

I've just spent a bit of time 'googling' on riding motorcycles in Germany. I found this.. If you ride in England and your motorcycle's headlights have an area to the right where the bright part of the beam is raised up to illuminate roadside signs, put black tape on the part of the headlight that makes that. but I also found .....not ALL motorcycle lights have this...modern ones do! but not Old DTs or old 400'4s In the UK more modern lamps have reflectors which dip the beam to the left and not straight ahead! My DT certainly dips down but it doesn't go to the left!..just tried it and it went through the MOT last week, they just checked the height. Yellow lights are banned! so much for my idea! and i also found BMW R1100S headlamp can be adjusted by getting into the back of the headlamp unit, loosening three screws and turning the bulbholder to the right so that the dip beam kicks up to the left for driving on the left Pauls right! it's a German thing! I guess there must be some European tourers which visit this forum, Come on guys what do you know?

Are you sure the glass etch on a single light vehicle is aimed to the side of the road? True a car which has a handed glass lamps will throw the beam to the left if its right hand drive like UK and the lamps are etched to throw it to the right on a left hand drive car, but for a bike..... surely the beam just goes straight forward? Its angle can be adjusted up and down but it doesn't angle it towards the kerb. I've just had a look at my car, the etch on the off side lamp is angled to the kerb, no doubt and the near side is etched forward. On an imported car the lamps are the other way around, I know this because mine's an imported Opel and I still have the original lamps upstairs. but only one is etched to the side. My DT has the etch forward with no visible etch in the glass that suggests otherwise. I'd venture to say i wouldn't bother with a lamp from germany, its probably different part number because it's yellow! Nice to hear that converting a bike to 12v is known as a "Neo conversion" chuckle chuckle!

I knew you'd know! Thats incredible you know the breakdown of what the yamaha codes mean, i knew they must mean something but...wow!....... you're the man! I've just been looking at the codes.........so 06 are M6 and 08 are M8's.......simple when you know. I bet it is a metric fine, because genuine ones are expensive for a nut! and metric fine always seem to be more expensive than regular nuts! nuts oooooh hazel nuts! OOOHH Cadbury take them and they make 'em in to chocolate. Who remembers that?

Had the MOT today, went through. However, the only problem was the swinging arm nut was loose and needed to be tightened up. I tightened it up of course when I replaced the whole at lot at Christmas: a few weeks ago. So I was a bit surprised to see it had shaken loose . On closer inspection the blue nyloc bit had broken away, so it wasn't doing its job. I'll need to replace it. Its a 17mm socket job. I can of course take it off but its raining hard outside and I'm not going out to the shed!! So in the comfort of a warm house......... Is it M10 or 12 ? and I suspect its metric fine pitch 1.25...............looks like i'll be going to in the morning! to get a new one! I'm sure Paul knows what size it is!

MOT due next week, so mileage done so far on the DTmx175 is just a little short of 1400. By the time the MOT is done I'll be just over it I guess. The 400 did a little over 400. Not quite as much as you 2 wheels.

Excellent service from them, have used them many times. Never had to worry about post as they are only one mile away from my front door. All the guys ride motorcycles themselves and all parked outside. They have always been friendly and certainly take an interest in either of my bikes when I go there. Their website doesn't always find what you want even though they stock it, the search needs to be exactly as they list it.. I wanted a new front M14 castlellated nut, if you look for Nut M14 you wont find it, neither will castlellated, but it can be found under castle nut You would have thought nut would have found it, but it doesn't you just have to think how they would have described it, other than that I've never had any problems.

Plus if it don't start it stays in the shed too!!!! My DT wouldn't start this morning!...................got it going eventually, but I've noticed when the temperature drops, she's not so willing to spring into life! takes quite a few kicks to get her going! When the temp is around 3 degrees and below, I get difficulty starting. My 400/4 always starts, but then its electric start and I keep the choke flaps shut between rides to stop the cold air getting in...not sure it works like that but it certainly starts each time when i do. The choke on the DT doesn't work the same does it!