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Then I think you've answered your first post question on what is the problem! You state in your first post that you "Replaced spark plug,stator, flywheel" so based on that sentence, you replaced the stator then it's probable that the stator has not been positioned correctly as it's part of the timing. Set even half a millimetre out will alter the performance. Set many millimetres out and it won't fire up or run. As you're a new member with only two posts and no introduction in the members area, my suggestion would be to have a look at You tube. There are several videos on timing two strokes for your bike which you may find helpful. The timing mark is a scribed line on one of the ribs. That should set you on the path to sorting your problem out. Good luck and keep us informed.

Hi there, The purpose of the regulator is to 'regulate' or reduce the voltage! The generator produces the AC voltage, and if you were to measure directly off the coils, on the charging circuit (with nothing else connected) you will indeed find a rising AC voltage depending on the revs... the faster the revs the higher the output. On a DT 175 MX you will see 26v at 6000revs. The REGULATOR 'clips' this voltage back down to 6 volt (on a 6v bike and down to 12v on a 12v bike) and it is this reduced voltage which charges the battery. Otherwise the battery will get fried on the unregulated output of the generator. So if you're getting 40v it strongly suggests the regulator is not doing its job. You might want to have a read of one of my popular posts on a conversion of my DT175 from 6 v to 12v. It's a long read but I do detail how all the parts work, which might help you understand it. I do note also that some XT owners have indeed used my post to convert theirs. However, i must point out my usual disclaimer: this is what I did with my DT175MX not any other bike. Moreover, I'd also like to add that 10 years later...my 12v conversion is still working perfectly fine. hope this helps.

Hi Ditchkid, Excellent welcome there and first post. Well done. Always liked choppers, so nice to see one. Hope you'll like it here, not as busy as it used to be but still a great website to visit. Great bunch of guys to chat to. Once again, great intro.

HI,Presumably it runs then if you say the speedo doesn't register whilst riding. i did a google search( although I expect you have done too) and came up with this... https://www.motorcycle-manual.com/yamaha-fault-codes/ scroll down past all the green text to see the error codes and explanation although to be fair even this website https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/er-1-and-er-2-error-codes.17765/ and this.. https://www.r3-forums.com/threads/error-code-er_1-video-of-issue.143570/ they all have one fact in common.....they don't run!!! therefore not sure if this is of any help. having said that some of the suggestions within the posts may be worth checking.

Shame you don't know anyone who's going to America for a Holiday! bring it back in a suitcase.

hi Geiger, DT175MX is 77cm, however, a useful site is Wemoto. just put in "yamaha Tacho cable" in the search field and a lot of the cables have lengths published. i.e: Tacho Cable Yamaha DT 250MX 1977-1982 Outer 800 mm Inner 825 mm Inner thread diameter 11mm Outer thread diameter 16mm if you leave out "Yamaha" then it lists some 120 cables for different makes. Presumably the part number is B38-2240 as I see there is one on ebay in USA at present.

Further to the above thread, I also replied with this which you may find helpful as it relates to the airleak i had..... This idle problem may well be air related, I had a not disimilar problem, albeit it would race away. But mine would not idle properly either until I solved the airleak. One solution to locate a leak (mine was the bottom gasket) was to make a load of soap suds bubbles and brush it all around the engine with an old paint brush whilst its running, any bubbling will locate the leak. (A similar method is used to spray WD40 on the crankshaft seal as mentioned before) Might be worth a go....its only soap suds!!! and you'll clean your bike at the same time!

Hi there, all very familiar!! have a read of one of my previous posts about my DT....

Sorry bud, I was just responding to the opening line... I don't see a lot of Brass studs/bolts being advertised. That's the trouble with text, it's not the same as conversation.

You don't normally see brass studs or bolts as brass doesn't have a high tensile strength and subsequently its threads strip easily. It's quite a soft alloy. Having said that it's easy to clean the threads of a steel stud if a brass nut has been used and it's been overtightened. You just pick out the strands of brass stuck between the theads.

Sure did and within 24 hours of the question....or perhaps you didn't realise you posted twice!

Hi Gordon, Had a look on google for you, came up with an exploded diagram of the ignition switch, and i assume you're referring to the switch cap cover as shown in the diagram labelled no 6. https://goparts.eu/en/genuine-oem/yamaha/scooter/xn-teo-s-125/2000/battery On bigger motorbikes generally these are a push on fit with lugs on the main switch body which holds it in place, it takes a small screwdriver to prise the cover over the lugs to remove it. Not saying yours will be the same but like I said "generally" they are fitted this way so no reason to think it would be alot different. A close up of the part number seems to confirm this https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/5adh25520000 hope thats of some help.

Hi scott, have you thought about replacing the crankcases,? might be a cheaper option. Theres a pair of crankcases on ebay for a DT125MX which are identical. I know they are in Greece but even with customs it would be cheaper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-dt125-dt-125-mx-1978-2A600-engine-casings-cases-motor/124306021524?hash=item1cf1375c94:g:R-AAAOSwH2Be3CHk There was a thread a few years ago about the 125MX crankcase, and Airhead confirmed they are identical. Might be worth thinking about?

Don't waste your money Scott, i did my DT 175 engine without any of those tools. (I did use a flywheel puller though) The crank case comes apart really easy, i think if i did do anything .... i may have used a strategically placed bit of 2x1 timber and a gentle hammer. Just don't use a screwdriver to prise the two halves apart. I certainly didn't use any fancy tools. The clutch centre nut wasn't difficult either, a bit of wood that was all and socket set. I used 2 bits of wood under the piston to do the crank nut and a chain wrench on the generator nut. These photos may help.

Hi Nicomasala, I might not be able to help as regards to the engine casing compatiblity but I can give you some advice as regards to the welding. I answered a similar post the other day and my answer also applies here:- The casing is cast aluminium, if you're not familiar, they make a mould and pour in molten aluminium and it sets into the shape they designed, it's quite strong, but if it gets damaged it's a different story. In my experience aluminium welding is not that successful especially if its going to support something, it's more suitable to say,.. repairing the outer casing... to seal up a crack. (which doesn't always last). Regretfully you're looking at replacing the damaged casing with another or a new one. In my opinion the original casting is always stronger than a weld repair, it simply won't have the same structural strength and will likely break again when put under pressure. Might not be what you want to hear, but that's my advice, hope it's of some help, kind regards

Hi jack, The casing is cast aluminium, if you're not familiar, they make a mold and pour in molten aluminium and it sets into the shape they designed, it's quite strong, but if it gets damaged it's a different story. In my experience aluminium welding is not that successful especially if its going to support something, it's more suitable to say,.. repairing the outer casing... to seal up a crack. (which doesn't always last). Regretfully you're looking at replacing the damaged casing with another or a new one.

Hi Bud, looking at the parts diagram https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/900-MOTO/2018/TRACER/MTT850D/FRONT-FORK/2017_76703-76703/26/0/25207 there is no equaliser between the forks and two sets of internal springs are listed ,one for each fork! Mind you proving it that they left out the components is a different matter. Having said that, you're getting new internals fitted, but I certainly wouldn't be taking my bike back to them.

There are some decent good people about Mike and glad it turned out alright. Has anybody had any pillion 'mishaps'? well yes, only the once, fortunately it all turned out 'ok' albiet a very frightening experience. it was also about twenty years ago, when I offered to take a nurse colleague out on my 400/4, as she'd never been on a bike before and admired my bike parked outside. I took the bike out through the countryside of West Sussex and ended up about to join a straight stretch of dual carriageway along towards Chichester. It's a T junction and the road is clear both ways save for a left hand drive gutter sweeper parked in a layby down the road. There was no showing off but i pulled out and opened up the throttles as the road was clear. Then to my horror, that street sweeper pulled out across the road heading for the gap in the central reservation. It was a 90 degree turn and the driver was in the left seat! If i'd braked there was insufficient distance to stop so it was a split second decision to aim the bike at the decreasing gap and to lay the bike down which grounded the off side peg and we shot under the raised cab of the street cleaner. I've no idea how I came out unscathed as I righted the bike on the other side and went over to the side of the road. The guy got out of his cleaner and exclaimed he just didn't see me pull out of the side road. My nurse colleague said it was so exciting and didn't see the danger in the situation. Personally I was white as a sheet and never took another pillion again!

I didn't remove the cover on the clutch side as you can see in the last photo (This was the photo of the strip down) So i only removed the gearbox side as seen in the photos above. I only had to do this with one bearing. The other bearings were purchased as open. I referred to my strip down photos and the Haynes manual which also detailed the procedure if I recall correctly.

You're welcome Graham, I've added another photo above for you.

I took photos of all of my rebuild of my DT175MX, similiar to your larger 250. Here's some photos which may help. Above: The New Bearing being offered into position needs its internal cover removing prior to fitting. Above and Next: Prising the cover off the bearing with a small screwdriver. Not difficult. Not sure I removed both sides of the bearing though, I just followed my photos of what it looked like before removal, so they matched. This above Photo shows ALL the New bearings in place. This last photo shows the inside of the DT175MX Clutch side with the bearing side casing in place. So I did only remove the one side. The Internal side which can be seen in the two open cases photo above.

Hi Graham There may be nothing wrong. the Simplest reason might be that although you have it on the engine stand , it may not be replicating the angle when on the bike. If its front end is elevated then the dipstick will be in the oil prematurely as its pools in the corner so to speak. Having said that, there are a couple of things to consider, bear in mind the engine is merely two boxes, in one box is the gears in the other box is the clutch. The same oil sits in both boxes. The oil will fill both sides via the open bearings. How much oil did you drain out? Is the dipstick the right one length wise? When you replaced the bearings, were they identical replacements,? i.e open type not sealed bearings. Did you remove the side casing of any new bearing to make them open? (just thinking what might stop the oil getting from one side to the other). Was it all cleaned thoroughly? (sludge oil stopping the new oil from crossing over). Did you soak the new clutch in oil? I appreciate new cork plates won't absorb the missing half litre, but has the level now dropped as the clutch soaks up. I'm not for one minute suggesting you haven't done any of the above, but you said any ideas on what might be wrong. Hope this is of some help. Keep us informed.

Enjoying Caroline again then Mike? I stumbled across it about two years ago, and have it on most days. I like the fact that there's no adverts and minimal DJ chat, having said I don't mind if it's longer chat, at least it's not mundane chat and it is about the music! Unlike a lot of radio stations they don't play the same records over and over again, although you can hear the same ones often. All the DJ shows last 2 hours and the same show is repeated in the week (hence hearing the same records). weekends are varied but there's Dave Fosters retro chart show at 12. Never worked out how they pick the years chosen though! Then through the night until midday it's continuous records. Most of the records are the 60's and 70's (heavy on the 60's) some 80's and some early 90's . Caroline went off air in the early 90's. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Y You're welcome Mike, Flashback is also available online, http://www.carolineflashback.co.uk/#home.html happy new year to you

Mike, if you haven't already you should consider downloading "Radio Caroline Flashback" radio app for your phone. It's ALL this type of music with no adverts at all. I have it on all the time. Be aware though there are TWO Radio carolines...one is Album tracks the other (Flashback) is the singles. 60's 70's and some 80's and early 90's. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.