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so did you just put the light on top of the pole or construct the pole as well. oh had a second look you mean the building in the background. cool job. i have a 20 * 10 garage built onto the house and its so full of tools equipment i have 2 project bikes in the dining room to make working room in the shed and around the bikes. lol

i use this PHENOL NOVOLAC EPOXY GAS TANK SEALER type of product in preference to por 15. it will stand up to your cold winters with less chance of failure. Why not just klik this i will look aruond for a uk supplier. cheers ian. quick edit..... caswell are also in europe. uk caswell site

great to see you found a source for your screw sproing and grommet. oooh definition time. screw..... activity to consume cold hours indoors with your natural back warmer.( had to keep it clean ) sproing... the noise your spring made when it left your carby. grommet... pre pubescent surf dude (aussie) so lets see your problem is ..... wait for it. keep waiting some hot wet slipery youth fooked your idle by encouraging your spring to sproing and steal the adjuster needle and sealing rubber when he should have used the rubber for protection while screwing your carb so as not to cause it to go on a high. so next time teach your bike to keep its legs firmly crossed. and the funniest part is you scrolled down and read this.

having 2 restoration projects on the go im well aware of just how disposable a disposal income is. best of luck with some coin. until then dream big dreams for your future dream ride. cheers.

oh gawd brain fart. im getting old i think . but then maybe i just forget my age lol. your local bike tuner. ie performance shop should be able to order you one in if he doesnt have one in stock. its a mikuni ffs. some days im a propper git. lol cheers i have to scoot now will catch ya about later

that im sorry i cant help you with. i know they will still be available new. but who and where you need to go im unsure. maybe email mikuni or ask on here if anyone is breaking one or has spare disused carby you can grab as a parts carb

ok what year model dtr is it?

if its see through. ie a hole in the bottom then im guessing ypu may have a missing screw and spring. common cause of this on modded moors is the screw is wound out too far to lower the idle and the spring doesnt have enough weight to hold the screw in place. if its this or vibration that caused it to come lose and drop out put a rubber plug on top of the screw once you have one back in there and reset to where its needed. we used to do that to the old chainsaw driven go/carts sometime in ancient history. cheers ian

howdie. first place to start is the fuel tank. 2 things can go wrong here. first your petcock is faulty. or your tank is not venting and vacuum sealing itself and not letting fuel flow. to test your petcock remove the tank and open the valve. if fuel comes out great one step closer.( if its an early one it likely has a vacuum hose connected as well. thats an automatic shutoff valve to test this connect a clean length of vacuum hose to the small pipe on the petcock and suck on the other end. if it opens and fuel flows out great as you should be able to open the valvue by sucking if not recheck the petcock or do some uper body workouts to increase your vacuum potential next before you try start the bike remove one of the fuel drain screws from the bottom of a carby. try to catch the fuel. see if you think its enough to fill the float bowl. next open the fuel petcock and see if fuel starts to flow out the carby. replace the drain screw. if it has the vacuum line type set it to prime. on some early yam's priming the carbs is a bitch. as your bike isnt starting im guessing your not getting fuel as it will try to run on less than perfect fuel setup. a quick test to see if it runs is to remove the tune vacuum plugs and put about 20 drops of fuel in each replace the plug caps and try start it. if it fires up for a second or 2 then its just a fuel issue. as a side note it took 45 minutes to prime late's xj750 carbs and the were undisturbed recently run but drained of fuel. i know a lot of this is basic knowledge but we often overlook the basics. cheers ian

hey liam. with mikuni's and other jap carbs you will often find both of these screws could have a damper proof plug over the screw. hence the deep recess for the screw. if yours apears to have the location for the screw in the pic but no screw then it likely has a plug over the screw. these plugs need to be drilled out as thew are cast in not pressed. personally if its your first take it to a shop to get the plug removed. after youve seen the before after you will be able to fix your own easy peasy afterwards. ( oh there are a few good walkthroughs on youtube for plug removal) cheers ian. p.s. g/day drewpy and vez.

hey that looks just lovely to me. -22c just a cool spell eh. i thought you get -30 or lower at times there. on a brighter note. ( simple shed workspace heater. get some heavy clear plastic. make a throw away frame from junk timber old bed frames etc. p.s. make the frame large enough for bike you and tools. cover it in the plastic.then get 2 cheap halogen worklights not a twin. the lights put out as much as an old 2 bar electric heater while lighting up your work area. it wont be like summer in there but will get it above freezing at least.) once your done roll up the plastic for next winter and throw away the disposable frame. then come summer you can go ride the first crisp clear ice free day. cheers ian

thanks for the welcome i shall put up a build thread for my fj once i get it back in the work schedule. currently waiting on engineering works in the putt putt dept. (wyseco big bore mod) have fun and if you cant ride it then dream ride baby dream. cheers ian.

hi liam with your frame number on the headstock. there is 2 ways you can get it without totally destroying a great paintjob. 1. not the easiest to source. you can get it magnetographed. its like ultrasound for a pregnant mom. similar to xray but cheaper and easier to get done. finding someone to do it in your area would be the hard part. cost may be too much. 2. second can be done at home. first find a pic of a genuine frame number so you know exactly where they placed them. then using double sided adheasive foam tape mask outside the area you wish to expose. then with a handyman spot sand blaster carefully blast the paint away. there is no need to remove all the paint as the munbers will show up once the colour of the paints dont match. then with a sharp scribe clean out the numbers and apply a coating of protective paint to the numbers. if you take care masking you can make this look like its meant to be this way. with your frame colour i would go for something like a metalic aluminium finnish. ive learned this the hard way as most early harleys my other love have very shallow numbers marked and are all too easy to paint out. 3. for anyone getting a frame repainted or powder coated. advise the paintshop that the numbers must remain visible as often they will remove the old paint but not clean out the frame numbers thus erasing them in the coating process.

hi ans welcome martin. im guessing its an xj 750 yam you have there,

just posting this pic from my cam for late.