Nick60

Thanks Jimmy, I've looked at their diagram... not my forks.

Hello Airhead, thank you for your reply. The axle is central to the fork leg with a removable cap on one leg and a pinch bolt on the other. The dust cap above the seal is a metal 'press on' cap, not rubber and and there is a hard plastic spacer/ring between the oil seal and the circlip. There are no mudguard brackets on the leg. Internally, I was surprised to find no spacer above the spring but I haven't measured the spring length yet. Nick.

Hi, I have dismantled the front forks to change the oil seals and got a bit of a surprise. There seems to be a double seal. The top seal came out OK ( size as expected, 31x43x12.5 ) but it sits in a steel bush which has another seal in it. I have managed to damage this. My question is, is this second seal part of the steel bush and should I be trying to remove it or do I just put a new, normal seal in? The bike is a 2K4 series ( with matching frame and engine numbers ) which I bought a few years ago from Germany. I think the forks are original but they don't match exactly any of the the picks in my Haynes manual so I'm stuck. Thanks for any help. Nick.

Good evening gentlemen and gentlewomen, I need to buy a new 3 part throttle cable for my '81 DT175MX ( the one with the oblong auto adjust splitter ). There are currently 3 options on ebay which claim to do the job. Pattern-parts.net ebay no 370516139347,jtsmotorcycles ebay no 290575662948 and wemoto ebay no 360344943094 Has anyone got an opinion about the best choice, or an alternative supplier? Thanks in advance. Nick.

Before and after Cuprinol... see, it really works! Looking nice and shiney. Good luck with the resto

Thanks Tony, Yes, mine is the same, no adjuster on the cable itself. The self adjuster is fine but I think I have the wrong cable fitted as there's 20mm too much inner cable compared to the outer. Will try to get a universal type adjuster or send off for the correct cables, which means waiting a week or so. Nick.

This site seems to have microfiches, old and superceded part numbers info for most Yamahas. Hope it's usefull. My link

Thank you yet again Oldgit, you're a champ. I'm clear on what to do now. There is no adjuster on the cable so I'll have to replace or modify it but the snow came as promised so I have plenty of time to sort this out.

Good evening all, I've read JW896's post of 02/09/2010 but still have some questions. I've just put the top end back together after a rebore ( got a new barrel dowel, from Yambits, as I was told to, thanks Oldgit ). Q1) On checking the oil pump "minimum stroke" the gap was at 0.55mm and had 8 shims. Haynes say it should be 0.20 to 0.25mm. I removed 4 shims and the setting is now 0.20mm. What I can't get my head round is this... when the gap was bigger, was I pumping more oil or less oil? Q2) Oil pump cable adjustment... When the cable slack has just been removed the pully guide pin does not line up with the "pip" on the pully. The raised boss stops against the guide pin, and the "pip" is almost a 1/4 throttle turn from the pin. From the boss to the pip the cam is flat and just after the pip the cam starts rising. On the current setting, on full throttle, the pully just reaches the highest point on the cam. There is a tiny hole in the pully, which is only a couple of mm from the pin with the throttle closed, but I don't think this hole is the mark I should be using? My cables have no adjusters below the junction box so I'm stumped ( I have the "self adjusting" cable juntion box ). Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks in advance, Nick. P.S. Bike back together and snow forecast for tomorrow... bugger.

Good point about the cylinder nuts... I didn't spot that.

Hi guys, Found this on ebay. I guess it's a patern part. Anyone ever bought one? My link

Hi Tony, Thanks for your response. No, I am certain that the missing dowel was missing when I stripped the barrel off. My question was not about where it's gone but whether I should re-fit the barrel with a missing dowel. The engine had partially seized before I bought the bike and I'm wondering whether the barrel might have been slightly mis-aligned because of the missing dowel and whether that might have had something to do with the seizure. General consensus is that I'd be nuts to rebuild without the dowel anyway, so no further doubt.... buy or make a new dowel. Job sorted. Hope to be back on the road/trail over the weekend, after checking oil pump settings of course. Thanks to all for their answers. All the best, Nick.

Top man Stockers, thank you for the idea. It'll save me waiting for ages for the post to arrive. All the best from Bulgaria

Thanks old boy ( can't bring myself to call you "old git" when you're so helpful ) I think we're speaking about the same part, a "tube" around the barrel stud, two of them, both on the right side crankcase, the base gasket holes are larger to accommodate? I'm 100% sure I didn't drop in into the cases, rags in place and anyway the groove it should sit in is full of gunge. I'll try to get a new one or get something made up. Cheers for the advice. Nick.

Hi guys, The sun is shining and I need advice to get me back on the trail. I'm just about to put the top end back together after a rebore. Everything is great but I have noticed that one of the two "spacers" on the right hand barrel studs is missing. Don't know why I didn't notice it before but it must have been missing when I got the bike as I certainly didn't loose it. Can I reassemble the barrel without it ( there is some movement when I put the barrel in place ) or is this part of the reason for the partial seizure that happened before I got the bike. Until I stripped the top end the bike was running quite well, Should I be worried? Thanks in advance for any knowledge. Nick, in sunny Bulgaria.

Well done to Nick. I've been riding for almost 35 years and my mum still worries. Perhaps that's one reason I don't have kids

Hi Kyo, Nice bike, looks amazing for it's age. Good on ya, no one rides their bikes here in the snow. Pussys. I'm also new(ish) to this forum. Seems like a friendly and helpful place. Hope you enjoy as much as I do. Nick. P.S. where is that snowy place you live in?

Hi Sam, I can highly recommend Heidenau K60 as an intermediate tyre. Great on the road and quite good off road. Don't know what sizes for your bike but these guys may help. My link Good luck, Nick

Hi from Bulgaria, I don't know if this applies elswhere but if an accident or an insurance claim involves tyres in Bulgaria, the date of manufacture is taken into consideration, regardless of the apparent condition of the tyre. So having an old but unworn tyre can still be used against you if it is considered to have contributed to the accident. Might be worth checking where ever you live. Nick.

Je vous remercie, c'est très bien

Mornin' from Bulgaria. Can anyone explain how this Boost Box works? Thanks in advance.

Thank you all for your replies. Oldgit, thanks for pointing out that the dipstick is read NOT screwed in.... usefull. Lee, you're obviously no dipstick . Ran the bike a few miles and topped it up. Now 650cc of oil shows "full" on the stick. I'm just surprised that the level dropped an inch after use. .

Hello again from Bulgaria Following previous advice I managed to locate some Rockoil 10/30 gearbox oil. Chuffed. Drained old emuslified oil ( without checking how much came out ), and flushed with 650cc cheap oil. But 650cc took the level way above full on the dipstick. Decided to refill to dipstick level with Rockoil so put in 500cc without looking at the dipstick, ready to top up using the dipstick. Humph... 500cc is already above the dipstick mark. So, the correct amount of oil is 650cc according to the manual and to the casting on the gearbox. Should I just put in 650cc and be damned,or should I use the dipstick as the correct level. Could I have the wrong dipstick? Can anyone give me the correct length of the dipstick, say from the bottom of the threads to the tip of the dipstick? The oil level when I got the bike was correct on the dipstick and the previous owner had the bike for several years so I guess he'd changed it several times without problems but I can't ask him as he's moved home. Can anyone advise me please? Meanwhile, aside from a little piston slap, the bike is running perfectly, reving cleanly to the red line. Handles like a pig compared to my BMW but hey, I can almost lift the DT off the ground, whereas I struggle to lift the BMW if I drop it so I'm not complaining Thanks in anticipation for some advice, Nick.

Thanks Folks, All your comments on oils/atf noted. It's a long way on a DTr but the old boy who first got me into bikes toured the whole of Europe on one of those pushbikes with an engine strapped to the front wheel so just let me know when to put the kettle on... There are great places to ride over here, on and off road. Not that I'm fit to be any kind of instructor Haven't worked out how to use the tech parts of the forum yet so no picks for now but I'll get there. And the Turra Coo... we miss her

Hi Jim, hi Paul, Thanks for your replies. I am a Sassenach but Aberdeenshire (by Turra) was home for many years. The constant rain eventually p****d me off! You're a braver man than me Re the DT, the barrel says 171cc. But I always though the Germans were too efficient to make a mistake... remains a mystery. Any thoughts on whether modern oils will cause clutch slip (my BMW has to have older SF,SG or SH spec oil as newer oils cause clutch slip). The problem is I can't easily get older spec oils here so I have to buy very expensive special bike oil which seems a waste if I have to change it (gearbox) regularly. A' the best. Nick.