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Check your water/coolant level, that might be it, as above it does sound like an overheat. Some folks have had a slight problem with the neutral switch but other than that it seems a pretty solid bike.

Now that Sniff is a weekend project, what a guy!

All depends on condition Meat, if it needs loads doing then £150 if it's a runner with little or no fettling then £500 to £700. Old bikes standing for years are full of unpleasant surprises mate, just the tyres alone will be knackered let alone all the other rubbers that perish no matter how you store it, if it was me I would say offer £300 and if not then walk away.

As above or I use a grinder and a gert big wire wheel, wear goggles and you should be fine, for the awkward places finnerz way for that. Only thing I would say is paint it as soon as you finish and have wiped it down to remove the dust, just a light coat of primer to keep the rust at bay till you decide on your final finish. As for really bad rust under your bike same thing, don't be afraid to grind down to the metal even if it means you find holes in the frame, they can be fixed with a decent welder. My old XJ had a frame crack right by the footrest/gearchange got it welded and only cost £20 inc time and parts.

Hi Hedley, welcome to the YOC.

Well David that sounds like an uncomfortable problem, my advice, for what it's worth, is to go to your nearest seat refinisher and see what they can offer, the only problem with custom seats is they cost a bloody fortune and getting it right can be a bit hit and miss. If gel pads don't work then how about a seat cut out like they do for horse saddles, I know it sounds daft but when you think about it your pain comes from resting your tail bone on the seat itself, if you can reduce that or even eliminate it then you should have a more comfortable ride. something like this might help? from these people http://yamabits.co.uk/yamaha-mt-07-comfort-seat.html Good luck with your problem mate, this is £176 so not cheap. I know it's not for your bike but I bet they will make you one.

How is anyone supposed to answer this question? Not being sarky or anything but it all depends on so many different things like how much do you weigh what fuel are you using do you have a fairing fitted, is this continuous use or just burst speed. Best way of calculating the possible top speed would be to work out what the torque will be comparted to the standard bike then add whatever they say the exhaust will give you on top of the new barrel and piston projections from the manufacturer. then take off all the variables like weight wind and anything that is bolted to the bike that doesn't actually make it go and that should be the approximate top speed. Your going to need to be a maths genius to work it out, best way, build it wring it's neck down the road then take off the 10% that the speedo reads above your actual speed and that will be approximately your top speed.

Blackhat, after you have taken all the bolts and screws out you can then take the wheel off, why do you think folks took them off as soon as they bought the bike?

S'all right mate your going to have your work cut out finding a good one that has what you need anyway cos as Jimmy say's the bloody things have been knocking about for 50+ years and everyone and his dog has fiddled with them till they look a right old state, best advice I can give is find the one you like, regardless of condition, then buy it, your Dad is going to fiddle with it anyway so as long as it runs and rides ok and has an MOT and a wodge of bills and paperwork buy it and your jobs done. Plus as Jimmy said the sellers all bought them as an "INVESTMENT" (tossers) and if you want to make money on bikes that's never the way to do it.

Here's a nice one Cynic. T100 500cc 1962 recent resto. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-T100-1962-/131813163542?hash=item1eb0ad4216:g:O~IAAOSw3mpXNhJv

Yeah that's the bugger, usually pretty hard to get out, which is why I said find the right screwdriver, if you find one that fit's perfect then they will come out if you try with any old thing your almost bound to strip the head off. You have a cross cut AND a straight cut screw on yours so a decent straight screwdriver will get it out easily, heat is your friend here, hot air gun (paint stripper) heat it and cool it a couple of times, hot then dunk in cold water and it will pop out easy.

On the bottom of the float bowl you should see a Philips head screw up inside a socket arrangement at the base/side of the bowl, CAREFULLY find the right screwdriver and remove said screw from the housing, the fuel should flow straight out, if not then you have to take it apart as it's blocked with crud. You can run a thin wire up the hole and wiggle it about to encourage the fuel to flow but all your doing is moving the crud around inside the bowl and it will bite you on the arse if you don't drain and clean it.

Ok mate no probs, by the way it's a 1977 T140 in near mint condition. Same year as the Triumph Silver Jubilee.

What a result! sounds really good to, well done you.

Cynic, my neighbour has a 750 sat in his garage, is that to big? It really needs very little in the way of fettling but has stood for the last 4/5 years in his garage and he, to my knowledge, has not started it for at least the last year, he takes it down for an MOT and then shoves it back in the garage. If you might be interested let me know and I will get you more details. Yeah "bathtub" Drewpy think it was on the 350 and 500s tigers.

Road racing is all about risk and reward, no one who gets on their bike and rides these things is thinking about crashing they are and always will be immortal in their own minds, if you ban it they will just do it anyway. It's a triumph over fear and the greatest rush you can ever know, imagine riding down your local high street with lamp posts going by at 150mph and 3 other lunatics right beside you, I would do it again in a heart beat, this getting old sucks!

Take the carbs off and clean them through with carb cleaner, even though you started the bike every moth for a while it has still stood with old fuel in it for a while, that alone would be enough for the jets to get blocked. Best way is to store your bike is drain the fuel and run the carbs dry then leave it till you need it otherwise your going to get this problem. Best of luck. PS by clean them I mean take everything from inside out and clean it, DON'T try to flush them with the jets in or you will just move the crud further round the carb.

Yeah as above, if the bolts and nuts look newer than the part they are holding on walk away. Or worse case if you actually see drilled bolts then run away, it's been thrashed round a track or two.

As above, the seal get's crushed after a few years and needs replacing and make sure the seal surface is clean even to the point of scraping the paint off as metal to metal is best. You can use a fuel proof sealer if it's really necessary.

What a handsome dog Jimmy.

WHAT!!! Nice sound mate well done.

Ok thanks fellas, was just a thought, wondered if others used their lid lock or not and how they attached the "new" click lock to the bike, in truth I never leave the thing attached to the bike either, it was just a random brain fart !

Ok here's an odd one for you, just looking at a thread someone put up saying they could not secure their helmet inside the little Neos 50 they owned and what lid would fit in the supplied hole under the seat, so I had a thought about my own helmet, it has one of the new attachments that click together rather than the old "D" ring type fitting, so my question is (at last I hear you say) how do you secure a "new" style helmet to your bike helmet lock? There is no obvious attachment I can see on the lid for this to work, am I missing something or is it expected that you carry your lid around all day. Just one of those things that pop into your head now and then, anyone got an idea? You could I suppose use the loop in the nylon strap that carries the click mechanism but that would cause wear that would eventually make the strap unsafe and if you have the time you can fiddle the strap through the fitting.

A proper bike one should be waterproof Mike but this one is really for the car, her indoors can't read a map to save her life! So it does double duty.

GUNK has been knocking about for donkeys years, but as above paraffin and a brush was the preferred method but steam was good to. In the 1960s we used whatever was available and cheap usually just hot water and a rag with loads of washing up soap. There were very few Japanese bikes back then.