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The photos are lovely mate but where do you get a cup of tea and a fag? It says "PASSING PLACE" is that like the dead passing cos there's not a bloody soul for miles? Or have you just missed the rush hour?

Hi Elvy, Welcome to the YOC, might be best if you put your query in the WORKSHOP section rather than here, that way it will be seen as a mechanical question rather than "Hello I'm Elvy and I'm new here"

It might be best to go to your local Yamaha dealer and ask if they can recommend a supplier.

That looks great Ike, hard to clean and polish as those little bumps lumps and edges are a pain to get at, well done you on your perseverance.

Hi Ian, yes on the very end of the pipe you will find a set of letter/numbers, quite hard to see sometimes but worth the effort, saves you buying the wrong thing and wasting time trying to fit something that looks right but isn't. Good luck with you search.

Ian, couple of things, please don't ask the same question on different parts of the site, gets folks pissed, most pipes have the part number on the end, where it goes into the silencer/muffler, sorry about that but don't know where you are in the world as you haven't filled in your details, if the numbers are the same on both pipes then obviously they will fit but even if they are only 1 number out then pretty sure they won't. That's the best I can do I'm afraid. On my XJ750 the pipes from a Maxim 750 would fit but from the XJ650 they wouldn't, same engine just different barrels, sometimes the difference is tiny but you will NEVER get them to seal if they are even slightly wrong.

Well done you, so from now on your his "go to guy" is that right?

On my FJ the actual spring inside had broken, that meant that the needle didn't move but the mileage counter worked, does your counter work? cos if it does then it's your needle return spring that's broke. You can't fix that I'm afraid it's a new or replacement clock.

Hi Paul, Welcome to the YOC.

HI Nigel, have you contacted OILMAN on here? He works for Opie oils and they do good stuff, follow this link even tells you about the fluids http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-889-motorcycle-coolant-antifreeze.aspx

Hi Nicky, welcome to the YOC, always nice when someone decides to rebuild a bike rather than scrap it or sell it, folks on here will be only to willing to help out if they can. Your from Scotland to so your going to be welcome by all the lads on here that live in your beautiful country.

Nicky this thread was started in 2011, he's probably deleted the photos from here ages ago, not always a wise move to open threads that are this old. Check the start date of the thread before you make a reply as the member might not still be on here, NEV is actually still around on occasion. Send him a PM if you really want to see the photos and I'm sure he will be ok about letting you see them if he still has them.

Hi and welcome to the YOC.

VMAX !! Oh lord, leave your brain at home and order your coffin, if I see anyone who looks like they are suicidal I will give them your details.

Ok Henri, first thing you need to do is buy the manual for your bike or even see if there is a PDF of it on the net, cos this will save you hours of time, cos all the answers to this and loads of other questions are in there.

Hi Doug, Oh my what rotten bastards to sell a bike like that then leave the poor sod to deal with it, if you want my advice I would just get a new/replacement head and scrap the old one, your never going to be sure what other damage that kind of thing can do I mean valve stems are usually oval once that happens, you can knock them out but again do you want to? A descent second hand head should not cost much more than a couple of hundred and as long as it comes with vale gear and cam shafts then your golden and half the work is already done.

Oh thanks Griege it's always nice to be appreciated

Simple answer is yes BUT it's a right bastard, much easier to remove the engine and do it as then you have access to all the gubbins. Are you a member of the FJ/FJR owners club? if not then join and Doc or Ernie at the club will help out with ANY questions you might have, they only work on FJ's and FJR's so know them inside out. Club address http://www.fjclub.co.uk/

Yeah he is soooo going to rub our noses in it, can someone lock this to stop him boasting?

Ok Tommy , had both of the XJ models and thought that the 400 was the same frame as the 750's, if not them sorry to lead you down the garden path as it were DOH!!!

Hi Ben, Welcome to the YOC.

Hi welcome back, you will find it a bit different than 30 years ago mate friggin BMW and AUDI drivers think they own the road now. Welcome to the YOC.

Otherwise use a couple of "G" cramps to break the bead in one spot them work round the tyre till it's free.

Yeah as above there is no real movement of the clutch plates as such just a reduction in pressure from the pressure plate. If it still sticks then you really have no choice than to remove them and free them manually. Remember to check their thickness against the manual min/max settings someone might have put heavy duty clutch plates in it and that will make it harder to get them apart.

I've had the XJ750 Fj1200 and now the FJR1300 and they all clunk, so do Hondas & Suzukis unless your really clever with timing the gear change, best thing I can say is to try to gauge the gear change to the engine speed, maybe even blip the throttle when changing up or down to prevent the selector from banging against the gear shift. as for it being stiff to change gears it should not be stiff but firm.