slice

Like anything second hand you have to beware that it's not a load of crap but easy to tell with a thermostat just bung it into some hot water if it opens fine if not buy a new one.

Welcome to the YOC Luke, we like questions but you may not like some of the answers!! No really they are good people on here, congrats on your CBT, ride safe.

Oh she's very pretty JR, you lucky boy I hope you have fun with it.

And also very kind of your wife to make it more entertaining!!!

Hi Jonny, Well you can make anything fit I suppose but do you really want to add 20 odd pounds of useless weight to your already small bike? What is it going to do for you other than slow you down? You probably have to rev the nuts off of it to get any descent speed out of it and then your going to add more weight, I can understand that you want it to look good and even that it will make riding it in the rain a bit less uncomfortable but sometimes it's best to leave it alone. Just my thoughts on your question perhaps you have good reason for this but to be honest I would have another think about it before spending any money.

Check your earth first might just be a simple fix.

Up to you I suppose but with my fully comp I get a bike to replace mine if it's nicked or crash damaged, plus theft usually means that the insurance company can say that you should have done more to keep your bike safe so that's why you get shafted by them. Best thing to do is ask them what is considered adequate for you to be fully covered if the worst happens that way you can say you did your best and no quibble from your Ins Comp also if your bike is nicked and they get it back with minor damage or bit's missing you can get it back and get the repairs done by the company and get 12 months cover on all the bits that were repaired or replaced. Seems a fair trade off to me but it's your money!!

It's not impossible for crap to be in your engine from new, ask any engineer if the engines leave the factory clean and they will burst out laughing, when they mill the casings and cut the thread holes all that crud gets left in the engine and only gets washed out when they dip them. If you have no major knocks or rattles your probably ok Grouch, just keep an ear pealed for odd sounds and rattles.

Grough you might want to see if the coil you have is hard or soft metal, if it's soft then NOT a washer. Best to check if anything sounds different with the bike, Are there any unusual sounds from the engine (like a low rumbling) that was not there before? Just a thought. Might also be something that has been in the engine for ages and only just worked it's was out. Migtht also be the thread from any of the dozens of bolts that are in the casing when it was first made, it's unusual to have a bolts strip out a thread unless someting has gone wrong and if it still runs and rides ok just keep a weather eye out for odd knocks and rumbles.

Hi Davie, Don't see why not, might be a good idea to straighten them out a bit the in head collars seem a little rounded out but the head seals will take some of that up just give them a bit of a whack where they are most ripply and that should be enough I would think. Great that you managed to find them a bit lucky there, what is the difference between the old ones and the new ones? Are they longer necked than the old one's? Can't really see with your other photo being a bit TINY. Good luck anyway. Ok so I actually clicked on your photo and got the full size picture (All this modern stuff is confusing when you get old) and was just wondering if you did in fact have the NEW collars the wrong way round? not that it actually matters if you have the old ones but if you havent tried the collars the RIGHTway round it might be worth having another go with them before putting the old ones on. Also if you have nice new exhaust pipes then it might be an idea to change the exhaust seals in the head as ewell as that will guarantee a good seal.

Hi Davie, I see no reason why threaded rod can't be used as long as the thread is the same and you can get the old studs out then do that, makes much more sense than pissing about with the short originals, might be an idea to use stainless and make sure you use some copper ease/grease as well so that the thread goes in nice and smooth and it makes it easier to get them out at a later date. Wish you luck mate. you can buy rod of off ebay for just a few quid drewpy sent me a link to some one he's used before but I have forgotten it so PM him and see what he comes up with. Also just thought that stainless nuts might be the way to go as well as then your pretty sure they won't rust on, let me know how your doing if you would.

Hi Davie, I had the same problem but you just HAVE to jiggle the buggers until you get the thread in not easy but DO NOT cut the collars down they are the correct length, To coin a phrase the BELL end goes against the sealing ring up against the head and the collar has the end that just rests inside the recess, then it's just a case of wiggling it till goes home, it's worse when you use new sealing rings in the head as you have to crush them down before the things tighten up. You can use longer studs (I think they are M6 size) to get them in place and replace them with the originals when you have it tightened down, it's just fiddly to do, just do one at a time and it should be simple. Good luck.

Well done Alex, onward and upward

Hi Tim Welcome to the YOC, it's usual to do an intro before asking questions but perhaps you could do it later. Have you checked to see if the filter in the tank is blocked? Take the tank off undo the screws that hold the tank tap in place and pull the unit out, check to see if any of the tubes/filters are blocked, needless to say empty the tank first before you do this as otherwise you will have fuel all over the place. Also check all the pipes that feed fuel to the carb to make sure they are not kinked, just one other thing I can think of at the moment is the fuel tank filler cap air hole blocked? Try running the bike with the tank lid off or open. Hope some of that helps.

Kens right, your float is either stuck down or the needle valve is not seating properly, give the float bowl a sharp tap with the end of a screwdriver that sometimes works just to knock it back into line.

Shambles, if you run the bike without the baffle in you will burn out the piston if you don't retime it, plus you need the back pressure to help the piston to actually go up and down, had a honda once upon a time and it sounded great for a while until the tops of the pistons fell off stick with hot water and detergent and if you want to keep it hot use a blow lamp on the silencer to keep it on the boil.

Into madness perhaps!!

I have one of those fancy bluetooth thingys in my helmet connects to my phone and can listen to music or take calls, it's ok when I have the flip front down and works quite well but with the front up it's not worth the bother,don't find it distracting on the motorway but would not use it when riding in town or country roads, to many muppets trying to kill me, my lid cost about £60 off of good old ebay and was a doddle to setup it is also one of the quietest helmets I have ever had, tried using ear plugs but really uncomfortable plus you can't turn them off if you need to hear something.

If your wheel bearing surface is knackered then why not try a replacement wheel, I mean how much would that cost as opposed to all this milling and clamps that have been suggested and as OG says what's wrong with the "original" Italian tin can if it ain't broke (well not much) don't fix it.

Welcome to the YOC John, always nice to have a new members with a project, someone will have ideas about what and where you can find the bits your looking for. Wish you luck with you bike and hope to see and hear how your getting on. Ride safe.

Thank you Monkeyjim It seems I'm not so daft after all and your right just the thought of trying to get into one of those one piece leather race outfits gives me the creeps, plus I would look like a badly stuffed duvet.

My Pleasure, Hope it all works out ok for you, if not then come back and we can all suggest something else. Ride safe.

Hi Michael Welcome to the YOC, WEMOTO are supposed to be very good and reasonably priced so give them a try. As to your other question, first check that your cable is not kinked around anything where it travels from the lever to the actuator arm, just make sure it has a clean run without to many changes of direction, you could try lubing the cable before you fit it with a cable oiler, my own preference is to use bluetack made into a funnel at one end then hang the cable from a handy rafter or whatever and then fill the funnel with oil till it drips out of the other end, takes about 10 minutes for it to go through and have never had a cable break on me yet (you just know whats going to happen now!!) Hope that helps?

Looks nice Alex, I bet your neighbours just LOVE you!!

For my sins when I was but a lad I used my sailing trousers they were bright yellow and had braces and rubber cuff thingys on the bottom of each leg, they were'nt cool looking and people used to squint when I went by but by christ they were waterproof, all the seams were sealed and even when the boat tipped over I never got wet, so if you don't mind looking like total prat and you want something cheap give nautical/sailing kit a try. As for me when it rains I go in the car, yes I know boo hisss and other comments but I'm OLD.