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Ok looked at the vid and it seems that you have a problem with the gear inside the casing. If you take the side case off -remove kick start (1 bolt) then drain the oil, you should then be able to take the screws off of the casing, start with the ones by the oil filler, after you have that off you will see the kick start mechanism on the shaft, should be something like a spring and what I can only describe as a quarter of a gear, bit like the segment of an orange if that makes sense? then you can see what is going on inside, if the gear is damaged you will see that some of the teeth are damaged or missing or it might just be a broken spring, if its neither of those then it might be the actual kick start drive shaft that is worn or damaged, that will require much more than I can possibly do over the internet so you have to buy a manual for your bike showing the engine in exploded diagrams. It might be an easy fix but until you have it apart you will never know, the other option is to take it to your local Yam dealer and ask what it would cost to fix it. Hope some of that helped!! Good luck and let us know how your getting on.

Well done mate looks like a good job, long as your happy with it and it does what you want it to do no problems.

Don't know for sure about this BUT some mopeds have pedals and they need to be taxed tested and insured so if in doubt DON'T or your friendly local officer will be having words. Just looked it up and the engine is built in to the rear wheel so it must be classed as a motor vehicle rather than a bike with an external motor. My best guess some might disagree!

Roll into corners gently and the same coming out DON'T have wild swings of speed just do everything smoothly, overtaking should be done with notice, nothing worse than winding on the throttle and your pillion is hanging off the arse of the bike (see above) think SMOOTH/GENTLE and you should be fine. Make it fun it is after all supposed to be enjoyable so have a goal and treat yourselves when you get there (cup of tea/coffee bacon sarny) plus don't make it to long, 15 minutes will be enough to get used to a different type of travel. Hope you enjoy yourself.

Moved over!

Thought I had already done that!! Have a poke around in side the headlight and find the wires you need there, you could also look at the bottom/side of the ign switch to see where the wires go. Got to be your best bet really as the wire run will be much shorter if you use something near the headlight.

AHHHH there's your problem if you use old star ship parts then it's bound to be trouble, myself I only use NEW star ship parts and my bike does 300MPH when leaving the garage!!!

Same as Ken I have just ordered an adapter from good old ebay at £1.44 for my cig lighter which I think has saved me about £17 on the price of a dedicated USB only adapter if you factor in the cost of the original adapter plus the new bit. Thanks Ken would never have thought of that without your input

Welcome to the YOC James.

Welcome to the YOC Andy.

Happy birthday Drewps. Oh to be young again!!!

Just a thought, but mine had a similar fault, would run lovely for a few miles BUT as soon as I opened it up it would start to misfire then slowly get worse and worse till it ground to a halt, even called out the AA on the last mission and he failed to come up with anything that might be wrong UNTIL I really looked at the bike and noticed that the fuel line was trapped between the tank and the seat, I felt a right pillock!! had just been squashing the fuel line every time I sat on it. Check it's not something stupid before you buy expensive bits you don't need. As I say just a thought. Hope you get it sorted.

\Thank you all that is just what I needed, this is doing my nut in and your help has made all the difference. PS just ordered them (thanks DT) should be here in a couple of days, Preload spot on with your numbers exactly as you said, can't thank you enough.

I wonder if any of you can help me out. Took the maxim in for it's MOT and it FAILED (bugger!!) nothing major tho just the rear wheel bearings were shot. When I took it apart there are only 2 bearings inside and I thought that there should be 3, 2 small ones drive side about 40mm across and 1 larger brake side one about 45mm across, but was wondering if I had this wrong cos my XJ has 3 and I have changed them so know that is correct. Also I am having a mare trying to find a supplier for the bearings in the UK so if you happen to know who might stock them I would be eternally grateful as they seem to be a rare as rocking horse shit! Any help on this would be really much appreciated. thanks all.

Had my car for the last 10 years and this bike for 3, nothing wrong with either of them BUT if I saw the right FJR1300!!!!! Do I need it No, do I want it? goes without saying really.

Hi Josh, Welcome to the YOC, (again!)

Hi Aaron, not a daft question if you don't know the answer, how else are you supposed to find out? If you already have a carrier/rack that will fit then most any top box will fit with a usually supplied kit. But if you don't have a rack then that's got to be the first thing you need to look out for, lots of different types out there (groan) but you have to decide what you want to do with it, for instance you may not need it now but will you need panniers at some time in the future? or will you just get by with a single small top box or are you going to use a whopping great 30 litre thing that acts like a sail in the wind? All of these things need to be considered before you even start looking for a top box. I see in your bike list you have a PRE-DIVI XJ600 if that's the bike you want the rack for then good luck on finding an original cos they haven't made then since the 1980s, I waited 2 years before the one I wanted came up on ebay + panniers, there are some universal rear carriers out there on ebay and else where that say they do the job and I haven't tried them so that might be your best bet if you want something quick and dirty. Other wise your going to have to be patient and visit a lot of bike fairs and there they all know how rare these things are so expect to pay through the nose for anything you find. Not being negative about your problem but it's not easy owning an older bike. Good luck with your search, I did buy a rack for another bike (Honda) some years ago and cut it in 2 and made it fit by extending the rear bars but that was desperation taking hold.

XXX for me please!!!! "DO A SODDING INTRO YOU MUPPET" meaning-please do and intro BEFORE you ask a question.

Hi John, my personal recommendation is that you do an INTRO in the new members section first, don't worry just messing with you, it's best to say Hi first before asking a question as that's how it works on here. Welcome to the YOC by the way.

Has to be Ali cos it looks better and will never leak, better to in that the new fuel we are now getting has that horrible ethanol crap in it and some fibre glass is supposed to react to this stuff by melting! not sure about that but even the thought of 3 gallons of petrol running down my crutch is enough to make my ball's shrivel

Well done Bippo nice to see the back of those things, time to go out for a drink!!! DT will be along shortly with an offer you SHOULD refuse!!!!!!!!!

NO!!! You don't have to go right up against the box just follow the wires until you find some where that you can trim the outer off, DON'T cut the wire just remove enough to get your cable connected to then drop a dollop of solder on to it and then tape over (with good quality) tape and "Robert's your father's brother". Will not let water in usually cos it's covered by the seat and tape should be enough to make it water tight anyway. It's a matter of being cautious, you could look at the end where it goes through the headlight cowling (if it does) and use the connectors in there, sometimes there is a connector block inside the cowl that transfers the loom to the handle bar controls, so you can take them off (handle bar controls) without stripping the whole loom off, the same applies to the ignition system off the loom you WILL find a block that connects to the ign switch so go in there for your connection, just think outside the box as it were. PS It really is much easier than I am making it sound, just use a multi meter to test you have the right cable (on each end) and that's all you need to do. Sorry if you think I am being patronising but I don't know what your skill level is so thought I would join the dot's as it were.

Hardly time to worry with only 7K on the clock!! But usually it is when it starts to make more noise than it should, that's pretty subjective I know but the only other way to find out is to take the rocker cover off and dig around with a feeler gauge as you check your manual. Sorry can't be more helpful than that as mine has done 39K and still has the original valves and shims!

WEMOTO can be quite good but you will still have to pay postage on your order, all you can do is give them a try, there is a place in Bristol that some on here use by can't for the life of me remember what it's called (getting old!) someone will tell you the name if you stick around.

Hi Jake, Welcome to the YOC, always nice to meet new folks.