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Just looked up a thread on the net that says you have to remove the "SPECIAL" link in the cam chain to get the heads off, it appears that there is a link that is lighter in colour than the standard ones so you rotate the engine till you see the "SPECIAL" link then remove it with a link remover that Yamaha will sell you for an arm or leg of your choice. Hope that helps? Also noticed that many of the owners of these bikes say that there is a tendency for the heads to crack or warp after a while, might be an idea to check for warping/cracking when you get the heads off.

I love the little bolt on bars that make it look like it has a full frame, yah gotta love it!

Some ways you can go faster. 1 Have a shit! even turds have weight 2 take everything out of your pockets, lighter packet of fags and any loose change. 3 cut your hair, top and bottom. 4 strip the bike down to the last nut bolt or washer so that it's barely hanging together. 5 BUY A BIGGER BIKE.

You put downward pressure on the gear lever as you pull the clutch in. It's supposed to preload the gear but I am to lazy to bother but some people swear by it.

Hi, Not sure if it's the same but with my bike I take the cam cover off and then remove the cam shaft bearings and bolts then slide the cam shafts out from under the chain, actually a bit more complex than that but you know what I mean I'm sure? I then tie a wire around the chain so I don't loose it down between the barrels and then the heads will come off. Hope at least some of that helps!! And again on mine you can get the heads off with the engine in the frame, thought you could do this with most bikes? Perhaps not!! PS almost forgot, LOOSEN the cam chain tensioner first, DOH!!! PPS Have you tried this place The TX/XS 500 Forum? www.xs500forum.com.

Hi, Sorry to hear about your problem with the bike but you will get more information from the forum if you do an INTRO first before you start asking questions. Think of it like this, if you walk up to a bunch of strangers and launch into a "my bike won't start" question before you even say hello most folks will just ignore you, so if you would go to the section "new member" and do an intro about your self, NOT just "Hi" but who you are where your from and anything else you think might break the ice you will get more feedback that way, plus I'm afraid you have put your TECH question in the BAR and it should be in the WORKSHOP section, your not the first but some folks get antsy about where stuff should be. Don't be put off by what I've said it's nice to have new folks join but if everyone just put stuff anywhere they wanted it would be anarchy and make the forum useless . Welcome to the YOC it's always nice to meet new people.

fil77 is right, forgot that bit, it seems that if you put a light pressure on the gear change it helps with the clunk, well spotted fil.

Hi Chas, if it CLONKS into first gear, they all do that, but if it clonks in ALL the gears then you might have a problem, when you think about it to change gear you move a moving shaft (crank) into a non-moving shaft through the gearbox, if you do it slow you get a CLONK if you do it fast you will not get such a loud CLONK, this is because if you bang it in it cannot grind where as if your gentle with it you get a grind. The best way to ease the clonk noise is to pump your clutch lever a couple of times to make sure the plates are separated, especially first time you start it as over night they can stick, then get your revs a low as you can to reduce the amount of turn on the crank shaft and get it into gear quickly but firmly, this is the only way I know of avoiding a loud CLONK, you could if you lived on a hill, roll down the hill before you select first gear, but people only usually do that when they are stealing your bike!!

Rock banned Jimmy!

Hi Yasmin, Welcome to the YOC, always nice to meet new folks.

If it's brass/metal then solder it if it's plastic then use a hot soldering iron to smooth out the hole. Araldite will melt in fuel as OG says. If you put this thing back in the bike then your going to spend the next 6 months unbunging the carbs with a chisel !!

Hi, Go to "new members section" on front page and just say a few things about yourself, no phone numbers or email addresses as this lot will be after you!!!!

GRIP PUPPIES arrived today, they are brilliant!!! Thank you Tasky for the info, bit of washing up liquid and they went on with no trouble at all. Makes throttle response much better to.

I like the conversion but am more interested in what DT says about his braking method, I am one of those OLD guys he's talking about and as far as I know if you pull on the front brake the rear lifts, if you brake hard it lifts a lot and if you brake soft it lifts a little, physics 101, so how can you say that using the back brake is better now than back in the day? Don't matter how big or small your back brake is if you only get 20% of your braking from it then it don't matter if it's drum or disc and the weight issue is negligible when you really think about it, a Disc and caliper versus a drum and shoes is (I would think) about the same in weight terms, maybe I'm wrong (ask my wife she thinks I talk out of my arse most of the time!) but I think Speedshops system is neat and tidy looking and some will no doubt find it useful. Just my thoughts on it you understand not saying I'm right just my opinion. P.S if you have ABS does that mean you get to use the rear brake more as it keeps the rear tyre on the road more? Remember I'm an old fart and have never used this stuff, barely understand it really!

As above, pictures are king, if your handy with a socket set so much the better.

It might be possible to trace the other owners through the DVLA or equivalent, you might get a name and address from them and then you can have a word about what the mileage is. It's possible it had a prang at one time and the front end was renewed that would explain the low mileage if it was done through an insurance company. Just a couple of thoughts on your question, not saying that it is any of these!

Tommy, she is good with HIS spanner but not so hot with a 10mil wrench!!!!!!! Grouch, offer to cook the tea for a week if she will fix the bike!!!!!!!

Well done Tommy, do you get your prize from Hannah? Jammy git!!!!!!!

I know I'm old but I have to ask "JUST WHY?" what in God's name was he thinking? Does the price include the TARDIS and the HULK? Someone will buy it and again I have to ask WHY?

Have always carried a photo copy of my docs under the seat just in case, makes it a lot easier to tell the law that you have everything and be able to show it straight off as getting towed and left to walk is not my idea of a good day out!!!

Hi Grouch, nice to have you back mate!!!! Good news about the bike, if you can't fix it then get someone else to do it for you is the best way. At least you have your Christmas present sorted early!!!!!! Don't be a stranger who else can we take the piss out of if you keep disappearing? We all hope you get it sorted soon.

Don't see why not, it's 2 stroke oil?

That's the nature of the beast Lallasro, they want your money but don't want to give it back so find all sorts of INCIDENTALS to make it difficult, I suppose you could phone them and say you have sold the bike but want the policy to run to the end, that way they know what's happening and if the worst happens then your covered?

Thank you all, nice find Tasky, I will get some today. Amazon price £15.99 be here on Monday, great.

Just some advice if you would be so kind, I want to change my grips and there are so many out there that it's a joke trying to make up my mind. I really like the soft spongy ones but not to sure about how well they will last but the ones on the bike at the moment, which are just bog standard rubber ones, make my hands tingle after a longish run, have any of you got a suggestion as to what might suit and what do you use? Also would like to put some bar end weights on so any thoughts you have would be welcome, NOT YOU FOAMY anyone who wears a mankini is pretty suspect in my book.