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Good luck, hope it's not to expensive.

As some of you might know Foamy sold me his fairing set off of his FJ, all fine but I forgot to ask for a key to fit the fuel tank (DOH!) anyhow I really needed to get the cap off so I can get it painted and foams has been busy so I decided to try picking the lock. I bought, last year, a set of lock picks just for the fun of it, really wanted to see if it was possible to actually pick a lock and if so how long it would take, well long story short after about 5 minutes I had the lock off and tank is ready for painting, so if you buy an old bike or part that has a lock on it and you need to get it open buy one of these from Amazon Believe it or not it's quite legal to own these and it's really piss easy to open a lock on your bike and for £15 it will pay for itself after the first couple of times you use it. Just bought the next set up from this which opens dual side locks and barrel locks, so going to try to open my car next. This is a JUST FOR FUN item you understand and not meant to encourage anyone to visit your neighbours house while they are out !! Oh and if you want to see it in action just go to good old youtube and there are hundreds of guys showing HOW TO videos. Just thought I would like to share.

Oh OK thanks for that, live and learn! Tho I thought that was called a BASH plate.

Some bikes have a dipstick but most don't you usually have to scrabble around on the floor trying to look through a really small window on the side of the engine that has gone opaque over the years, as to when to top the oil up, well when it needs it is the only answer. Don't know what a barge plate is so can't help with that. Must say tho that if you have oil leaking and it's collecting in the "barge plate?" area then fix the leak.

Have to agree with Tasky Blackhat, there are plenty of race orientated bikes plus a really good looking scooter but not a single tourer which is odd, so as Tasky says I will stick to the vintage version for now.

Yeah as above Matthew TAX and MOT are non points items so you should be fine, I think only no insurance carries a mandatory fine and points. This from the DVLA If the system flags a vehicle as being untaxed and not declared SORN, an automated letter and fine of £80 will be issued to the registered keepers address. Early settlement of this fine if paid within 28 days can see a 50% discount where you will be required to pay a fine of £40. This for no MOT from DVLA A fixed penalty notice is usually the method dealt with by police which costs the driver £60. Failure to pay, or repeat offenders will receive a court summons where the fine will escalate and will include court costs.

Had My FJ in the back of my Galaxy but had to take the bars off, if you take enough bit's off anything will fit I suppose but if you mean will it fit without anything taken off then you need to measure the height and width before you try to put it in or your going to look like a right dick with the bike hanging out the back, so how high and wide is your mates car door? then how high and wide is your bike? if your less on the bike than the car then yes it will fit if not then no it won't. Simples !!

Good news Dutch, glad you got it sorted.

OH GOD FOAMY !! you really have to get out more mate.

Signed, I hope it makes a difference but at the end of the day the law is what it is, so this poor girl and her parents will not benefit by it, but others will maybe feel some redress for the injuries that careless drivers cause.

Rear swing arm bushes are a right bastard to do, getting the swing arm out is easy it's getting the bloody bearings out that are the problem, heat is the way to go and I made up a puller with a thread and 2 bolts + a couple of washers to get the roller bearings out still took 2 days and lot's of swearing but it can be done, figure they need doing every 2 year or so as they are right out there in the weather a horrible design really, should be covered in some way to keep the crud out.

Ok thanks lads will try that, foamy has sold his carbs I think so probably not a solution.

Oh dear another one hit wonder I suppose, if they don't get an answer straight away they move on, shame really as we might have been able to help, Oh well never mind.

Ok Peeps just a quick question. I have Mikuni carbs on my FJ, now I thought as it was winter and I usually take the bike apart and check stuff that this year it was the turn of the carbs to get a through cleaning and refurb, so I took them apart and, long story short, I f++ked one of the carbs, (Bugger!!) anyway I have a spare set so not a major drama but now I have a set of 3 instead of a set of 4 so can anyone tell me what actual carbs fit my bike? I mean can I buy a single Mikuni carb and convert it using the jets and stuff from the broken one to make it the same as the one I screwed? Is there a number on the carb body that tells me what model carb it is? or how do I identify a replacement without buying one that is different inside to mine? Any advice gratefully received as I am completely stumped in what model carb body to try and get hold of.

Yeah I like that bike to, nice tight looking machine.

How about you say what is actually wrong with your engine ! it might be fixable.

Hells teeth Mc your going to have as many bikes as Tommy10bikes by the time your finished, you will be getting calls from people to sell you their old bike from all over Africa.

That's a whole forum section by itself "FOAMYS FOLLIES" is what it should be called and have a warning on it that if you read this you might die laughing !!!!

Yeah I'm with Noise on this, the switch only shuts the engine off in case of an accident other wise the wheel can still turn while the bike is on it's side, back in the 60s and 70s it was not required and it was only the Japanese that started the kill switch idea. So yes you can have a non kill switch bike but like most ideas it came about because people got hurt by the bike AFTER a crash, some one would try to pick the bike up while it was still running and it would take off up the road if they had no idea of what a bike could do without the clutch pulled in, so if you don't really care what happens to the bike and passers by in the event of a tumble then it's all yours to play with.

As always Tommy a beautiful job on the bikes

As above you really want one of these for your bike. Tells you all you need to know and makes it much easier to fix those things that break.

If you want "CHEAP" then buy a broom handle, but if you want SAFE then buy the right thing, no such thing as a cheap well made pair of handlebars. What's the old saying? "you get what you pay for". PS sorry to hear you dropped your bike always a pisser when that happens, It's excepted practice on here that you do an INTRO in new members section before you ask a "how do I fix my bike" question, just so we know your not a one hit wonder, we get a lot of those, don't mind as such but they NEVER say Thanks, so if you would be so kind to trot over there and say "Hi" and a bit about your self it makes things run a lot smoother if folks think your serious about the forum not just a "I WANT!" kind of guy.

Well DT he certainly has a short enough fuse !! (man above I mean)

Well you can change it if you want to of course but it really isn't needed, unlike most oils the front fork oil only really lubricates the works and takes the pressure during compression unless you have a leak or let water in to contaminate it. 10 weight oil is usually the recommended oil for most bikes but if you want to stiffen the front up you can use up to 30 weight tho that can blow the valves if you really hammer it. All the forks have an air gap it's how you set them up so all you need to know is what air gap you should have and fill it till it's on the right mark. This is just an example so you will have to look your bike up and use the correct level from the manual. This is also just an example but shows a normal type set up for most road bikes.