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Thank you all for your kind words and support, was feeling really hard done by when I got home, every bugger out there was after me..! What's the old saying? "It's not that your paranoid but are you paranoid enough".

So I'm off to see my Mum down in Portsmouth, about 150 odd miles so takes me about 2+ hours to get there from home, I leave the house and not more than 1/2 a mile from home this bloody woman who is following her friend home from dropping off the kids at school apparently and does not want to loose her turns right across in front of me, big black line from the rear wheel down the road and I'm jammed inside the front wheel arch, this while she explains the story of how we arrived at this moment. I am still trying to hold the bike upright while she goes on about this, if you didn't laugh you would not credit it..! NO "sorry mate my fault" just an explanation of how I have made her loose sight of her "NEW" friend. I'm on my way home and I arrive at a set of traffic lights to find a broken down truck blocking the outside lane, + police car helping to direct traffic from the cake shop on the corner? I stay in the right outer lane and squeeze past the truck and the traffic on the near side which has all had to pull over to the left lane to get by, I leave the lights and find a Merc trying to use me an ornament on his bonnet cos apparently I didn't have any right to use "HIS" side of the road when he had to pull over like everyone else, really you couldn't make this shit up could you? I'm now on the A34 just passed Newbury and on the home stretch to the M4 when this young woman who I am overtaking just pulls over into my lane, I'm on the edge of the barriers with the horn blaring plus shouting where the fuck do you think I'm supposed to go when she just keeps going I have nowhere to go car behind car in front and this tit trying to squeeze muggings here into a crash barrier. Apparently I'm supposed to vanish into thin air when she decides it's ok to merge with other traffic. Is it just me or are people just getting worse? I really don't remember when it was as bad as this and it's always the bikers fault..! Fuck it... Had my moan, feel better now..!

It's got to be fuel or electrical, can't be anything else really, simple things first try leaving the tank filler open when you start it might be a blocked tank vent, try some NEW coils they do break down and can give good service when cold but stutter and fail when warmed up, check your fuel filter under the tank that can get bunged up as well plus the tank tap pipes can get loose and let air in so that's another thing to check, other than that you seem to have sorted most of the other stuff I would suggest. good luck, come back if some or none of that works and we can have another think about it.

You cheeky bugger ..! Your not wrong tho, I remember when you could buy a bag of chips and two seats in the cinema and get change for a pound..!

Hi Lee, well to be honest it rather depends on what you want to do with it really, are you going to ride it or just do it up and sell it. If it was me and I just want the cash then flog it to someone who will enjoy it after they get it going, the time taken to get the parts and the time to actually get it running is probably more than it's worth.

Hi and welcome to the YOC.

Well to be honest I didn't know if these came as a separate item either but having looked it up on the net there seem to be hundreds of them for sale from 10 to 18mm in size, just type in what you want and "Roberts your fathers brother" as they say..! Found this https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcS2UqPe_4s4LNGNpYVnoATGp1l4O6t6VWsPxdsbd6jr4A7-at8aNVcTRJAsLQ1siA7ex1F6vhs&usqp=CAE And this https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Front+Brake+Master+Cylinder+-1997+XVS+sight+glass&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiopeG00r_dAhVVFMAKHfM2AXMQ_AUIDigB&biw=1920&bih=877#spd=4082561139258610062&spf=1537105038773 In about 2 minutes of looking, I typed in "Front Brake Master Cylinder -1997 XVS sight glass" give it a try and see what comes up.

There are loads of sites out there that give you the code readouts yours is ;- Fault code 19 - No signal from ignition to ecu. So check the wiring from the ignition to the ECU and see if you have a broken or rusty joint.

Hi there, ok it seems your dealer is correct and in fact that's not a bad price, this is a rough estimate of a common price for this part £335. I would go down the route of getting the part from a broken bike, be aware tho that you can get these in KPH and MPH so make sure you get the right one. I'm pretty sure that you CAN'T switch between the two as it seems they come in kph or mph only. Looks like it ONLY comes as a complete unit as well so there is nothing you can swap out from one to the other. Look here, it says all you need to know. https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=Yamaha&T=YZF%20R%20%20125&Y=2012&L=YZF_R_125-2&O=METER&F=YA-YZF_R_125-2-Z-J25&L2=YA-YZF_R_125-2-Z-J25

The starter motor has very little to do with actually starting the bike, sounds odd I know but all it does is turn the engine over, so if your motor turns over when you hit the button then there is nothing wrong with it, there are 3 things you need to make the bike engine run AIR FUEL and POWER nothing else matters. So check Carbs Tank and fuel lines then Air box and air filter after that check that you have a spark to the coils and plugs. Unfortunately you can only do this when it WON'T start as it sounds like the problem only occurs when it's hot. My best bet fuel starvation, try taking the fuel cap off of the tank when It does this. Might work but it will be something simple.

There are loads of "how to's" on youtube. just find the one your most comfortable with and have at it, this guy is setting up a set of floats but the principle is the same.

Hi Yan, welcome to the YOC.

Thanks fellas, yes I think your right Cynic the bolt was their fault but truth be told if they hadn't broken it I probably would have when I did it so not really to concerned about paying for it. Your right Drewpy it's about time and I have other things that need doing so not really a problem just felt like having a moan..! Will be nice to get the bike back tho, the garage feels really empty without it sitting there.

Hi Woodrow, welcome to the YOC.

Hi Chris, welcome to the YOC.

So decided I am just too idle to adjust the FJR valves myself so sent it into the shop for them to do it (FJ OWNERS CLUB). It's actually a lot of work to adjust the valves on the FJR, lot's of pipe work and draining fluids and such plus remove the cam shafts and truth to tell I have other things that I wanted to do. So drag the wife out with me in the car so she can bring me home after I drop off the bike, that's about the nearest I am ever going to get her on the thing..! Said they would call me when it's ready, it takes about 3 hours to cool down before you can tackle this job as it needs to be stone cold for the actual adjustment, this is at 9.30 Friday AM. Get a call at 4.30 PM and expecting to go and pick it up and bring it home, so glad I got someone else to do it, the cross cooling pipe at the top of the head had sheared off when they tried to remove it (bugger) at £140 each this is going to sting I think but guess what they broke a bolt in the thermostat as well so it needs drilling and threading before they can fill it with coolant, (double bugger) of course none of these things have been off the bike since it was built in 2001 so I was expecting a few small problems. The bill is standing at £390 at the moment for what should (on a normal bike) be about £150 all in. The guys at the owners club are really good at what they do and I am really glad they have the problem of fixing the faults but not that many years ago I would have done this myself in the garage or on the side of the road in the rain, there comes a time in your life when it's worth getting someone else to do these things. The only thing that really smarts tho is that the bill is likely going to be closer to £500+ before I get it back, I've paid for complete bikes that were road worthy for less than that..! :(

Found this hope it helps. Sorry just noticed it's in German..! Pretty easy to figure out tho if it's for your bike.

Hi welcome to the YOC.

Hey Bips, glad the worlds treating you ok. Nice to see you back.

Hi Nic, welcome to the YOC, as the others have said big chain and big padlock, especially on the YBR they seem to be a favourite bike for the bike thieves. If you don't want to carry a big chain then 2 small locks can work as well, one on the front disc one through the rear wheel and swing arm and then the steering lock on your bike, takes about 2 minutes to lock it up and makes it really awkward to steal. Of course they can just as easily pick it up and chuck it in the back of a van..! The best way, park it where you can see it and never look away.

As Cynic said you really don't have to do much in the way of "running in" anymore the bikes are built with much closer tolerances than they used to be and they are ready for the road almost from the start. It does pay to try to be gentle at the start tho, just in case anything might let go, most folk put a couple of hundred miles on the bike then it's off to the races. Usual checks are best done on a regular basis, tyre pressures and engine oil plus any cooling liquid that your bike might have, it's also is a good idea to check the nut's and bolts after a few weeks to make sure nothing is working loose. Other than that your good to go. Oh one other thing CLEAN your bike regularly, it might be a pain in the arse but you can spot a fluid leak much quicker if it's not covered in shit. If you don't already have one then buy the manual for your bike, lot's of good info in there and service and check data helps you keep it in good condition. Don't forget any vehicle is worth more with a good service history even if you do it yourself.

Hi Geoff, welcome to the YOC. Good luck in your search mate..!

Justin, this might be of some use to you. NOT the same as yours but all the rest will give you a head's up. https://youtu.be/vrmYJgcGX30

As Jimmy said, push down on the inner thingy with the divot in it and hook out the circlip. Use a piece of cloth over the end to stop it firing across the garage floor..! There is usually a circlip in the bottom section of the fork as well under the dust cap, take the fork clamp off as well it makes it easier to just do one at a time. Don't forget to put the springs back in the right way as well usually tight at the bottom I think, best bet keep them the same way up when you remove them.

Hi William welcome to the YOC. As you have already figured out changing the gearing on your bike will give you a top end boost but not a lot, the real problem is that your bike was designed to go at a certain speed and your going to find that getting it to go much faster will get expensive very fast, exhausts and carb kits plus boring out the barrel will help but every time you increase the speed the reliability will go down till you reach the time when it detonates across the road and throws you into the nearest bush if your lucky. Your best bet, take your test and ride a bigger bike..! Sorry mate but there is no magic fix for your problem. Now your other problem with going through sand at speed, again you can't, it's the same as the bikes and cars that do the DAKA rally even they slow down for sand.