Tommy10bikes

I think you will find the guys are correct in saying it should be .75 oversize However are you sure the numbers are #75 and not # 25 Cheers TTB

I have just measured the rod length that was built up for my DT1B and its 130mm centres, also i have just crossed referenced the rods for the DT1 and there all the same part number so DT1 DT1B DT1E DT2 DT3 MX250 as well all use the same rod. Obviously the top end isnt original for the bike and with it having only a one ring piston then, i would have thought that there may be 5 mm difference in the piston you have and an original piston, so by going with a standard rod and piston may give you the correct stroke. Just a thought. Regarding the shock i have used these on my DT1 and my DT360, i have also bought a set for the DT1B that i will do one day. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-Yamaha-DT1MX-Replacement-Shocks-RT1MX-DT2MX-RT2MX-/290606631638?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a9814ad6#ht_500wt_1156 TTB

Oooh , the horn cant be switched of just by going through the modes on the speedo, its a bit complicated i know . My lad has an XT125R and he say you keep pressing the mode button until its on time and then you hold it down until it flashes, then keep clicking the mode button until the time is correct. I cant see someone re wiring the speedo for any reason except to alter the mileage as i would suspect it would be just a plug in unit, even then if the plug has been cut all the wire colours should correspond. Cheers TTB

That video was great, bang goes the ozone layer over Yorkshire, Global warming ! , well bring back 2 strokes and bring it on. TTB

Any pictures as well

I managed to get my piston from this seller on the bay, he has been very good and all that was ordered arrived well packaged. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-DT1-Piston-Ring-SET-2nd-OS-OEM-NOS-NEW-/110664849193?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c4239729#ht_572wt_1163 Im not sure what oversize you want but it looks as he has them all Hope it helps TTB

I have just had my DT1B crank rebuilt by Keith at Motolink http://yamahaspares.uk.com/ .From what i can remember most of the conrods and bearing are from the DT / YZ range so a fairly easy fix, he can also supply some seals and bearing buti think you will find they are also stock Yamaha sizes. As Spittle65 has said most of the other parts will have to come from the states but the exchange rate is very good at the moment, one site i did find usefull was http://vintageconnections.com/ who supplied all the silver sheathing and tape. It does sound that you have the later DT3 engine if its reed valve as all the early DT1 where piston ported, i finished my DT1E over xmas this year and i have semi started my DT1B but on hold until i finish my 1975 xt500c, i also have a CT3 but thats next years resto. TTB

It should be a 3 wire cylindrical flasher relay , the black wire is just an earth / ground wire so Oldgitonabike is correct in saying make sure it has a good earth, this also this applies to the earth leads under the seat and also under the top yolk. you could try undoing the flasher and cleaning the relay points and see if it makes any difference, as sometimes it will work again. TTB

Hi Gomer1 I havnt done the 12v system on my TT but if you had the parts im sure it would be a simple swap as they are the same engine bar the head & valves. TTB

Hi First off i sealed the tank with petseal or similar , then once cured sprayed the tank with plasticote paint which is crap to spray but flexes a bit, too be honest there is the odd bleb now but it was 4 years ago when i sprayed the tank. TTB

It should be easy to fit indicators to your TT as there where fitted originaly, though i bet the harness has been chopped. If you have the standard rear mudguard then only oem as there are specific to the TT and the IT range. I have 2 TTs one restored bellow and one half way through restoration with indicators fitted. Good luck with your search but if you want any more help just PM me. Cheers TTB

I will be going all being well at Stafford, there is this weekend a classic japanese classic bike show at B&B Motorcycle http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/RidingEvents/ridingeventsresults/Events/2011/July/jul1411-lincoln-classic-bike-show-sunday-14-august/ Weather forecast looks good so the XT will be out . Also on the 7th & 8th January there is being organised The Classic Bike Guide Winter Classic Show at Newark show ground TTB

Cant see why ot they are the same bike bar the front wheel, you can even reset the speedo to take into account that the front wheel is smaller. Best to ask a yamaha dealership but im sure im right. TTB

Wow now thats a big question, i have mostly xts &tts and they are all different, just google image yamaha XT and see how many different models there are, even the XT500 there must be 5 different models without the colour allowing for the colour changes. If you can be a bit more specific then i can answer a bit more. TTB

Its a bit late i know but i have only just got back from my hols, yep go to a yam dealer i use Granby motors, one thing i would do is remove the front rubber footpeg grips as they are only held on by an alan bolt. TTB

Well done on your new bike, yes its a very exclusive club as there isnt too many TT600R or the later version TT600RE, mine is the TT600R on an 01 plate. I use mine for green lanning a prefur it to the WR426 i had, just make sure the battery is well charged over winter as my mate burnt out the starter solernoid out due to having low battery power, you may be suprised how cheap re[lacement plastic can be as well as it is manufactured by acerbies not oem Yamaha. Cheers TTb

There is a tiny cross head screw that holds the trip knob in place, cant say what size it is but the head is about 4mm across. TTB

There is a tiny cross head screw which holds the trip knob in place. TTB

You could also try Motolink, he has many nos obsolete parts. TTB

It goes without saying to make sure the points are opening and closing correctly when you kick the bike over, check correct gap on the points if there old put some new ones in maybe add a new condenser check that the coil is earthed correctly make sure the cut out switch isnt faulty ( earthing out the points ) same applies for the main switch check there is some power going to the coil when you kick the bike over My guess is that if you havnt fitted new points & condenser its probably them. If all fails bring it up to my house for a week. TTB

Hi waddy, you could try rexs speed shop or you could try finding an ignition set & flywheel for the DT360A bit hard to come by but you never know your luck. Regarding the front mudguard im sure its sprayed silver, heres my DT360A. Need any other info on them just ask. TTB

Yes , as you can see you may be waiting a while. Its easy really just take your time in prising the ring open first once you have it nearly there just run a small screwdiver around the edge and given time it should come away. Good luck TTB

They can be taken apart with care as you can see with the XT set i have done on another forum. http://www.trailbikeandenduroclassics.com/tommy-s-xt500-75c-t924-60.html I have stripped a set of DT clocks but not had the time to put them together yet, best to is to prise the top retaining ring from the underside of the speedo as rather than risking braking the glass. Good luck TTB

Nice few projects there Chrisp, i have not long ago just finished restoring a DT1 and a DT360 and both where excellent projects now finished. Yep been there with ebay purchases from the states and paying the vat & postage charges but when you need the part theres no other way of getting the bits. Just restoring a 1969 DT1B and an XT500C at the moment but the XT is taking preference at the moment. What colour are you doing the DT3 tank ? TTB

It sounds like the timing is out or the main end seals could be blown or knackered, More than likely the timing, is it the dt2 dt3 or the dt360A. I had the same problem with a CT3 and all it that was wrong was a sheard woodruff key which ultimately once the fly wheel had shifted on the shaft changed the firing position. TTB